Why the dislike for D2 bushcraft knives? (Also: Enzo Trapper project/review pg.2)

[Ravaillac]

I think the chipping issue is more likely to present itself on a large chopper than on a 4 inch bushy.

I've actually had chipping on moras from whittling hard wood so not that unlikely.

 

[OwenM]

Glad it's working for you. Looking good, too!:thumbup:

 

[Robert.B]

My main bushcraft knife (4" blade) is a Queen cutlery bearhead in D2...insanely sharp, never had chipping or corrosion and the jigged bone provides a decent grip when wet and with gloves on. I like that its a thin blade so slicing tasks are a breeze, its tough enough to whittle wood for fire making and the sheath with it works for how I carry my knife (paracord wrap and then slung as a baldric but gives me paracord for survival purposes). I carry eze-lap pocket diamond hones when hiking and camping, takes care of all my sharpening needs.

PS. I don't use scandi grind for my bush knife, no experience with them.

 

[killa_concept]

I've actually had chipping on moras from whittling hard wood so not that unlikely.

What sort of wood exactly? And was it a carbon steel mora?

Glad it's working for you. Looking good, too!:thumbup:

Many thanks mate! I'm still debating on what sort of sheath to make for it... right now, I'm thinking a leather one with a firesteel loop and with both horizontal and vertical carry options. But if that's where I decide to go, I'll probably have to get some thinner leather than I have now...

My main bushcraft knife (4" blade) is a Queen cutlery bearhead in D2. . .

That's one heck of a nice looking knife mate!

PS. I don't use scandi grind for my bush knife, no experience with them.

You should definitely give it a try some time. I absolutely adore scandis for bush work. The single edge bevel really makes it easy to get a feel for the angle of cut, which makes carving tasks a breeze...

 

[stewey1]

Ive personally never had a problem with D2, Ive batoned the crap out of it, pryed open ammo tins and used it for general bush craft tasks, I would be wary of factory D2 blades but if you get a d2 blade from a good maker who likes the steel and knows how to heat treat it right, its tough, stays sharp, and does the job fine. good blade geometry and heat treat and D2 is a favourite of mine. its is hard to sharpen if you dont have the right gear, invest in a good diamond sharpener and your away

 

[Jeff H]

.....Many (most) bushcraft knives
have scandi grinds.......

Also, being very wear resistant, it's a bear to sharpen as a true Scandi, especially on the fashionably thick knives, which results in wider bevels. As for sharpening ease, there is a BIG difference between the metal you are trying to remove from a Scandi and a flat w/secondary or full height convex. Sharpening a D2 Scandi - yes, the common sharpening complaint is valid. On flat-ground with a teensy secondary, it's really not bad at all and you can even be a little heavy-handed on the final strop without inadvertantly rounding the edge. If you strop your Scandi at a higher angle than the bevels were ground, you may be happy with it on a Scandi, but be prepared to spend some quality time with the "stones" if you decide to flatten those bevels back out.

D2 is my "fsavorite," but I don't let the steel make or break the deal. D2, A2, O1, 1095 - I will take any of them if I like the knife.

 

[Robert.B]

That's one heck of a nice looking knife mate!


You should definitely give it a try some time. I absolutely adore scandis for bush work. The single edge bevel really makes it easy to get a feel for the angle of cut, which makes carving tasks a breeze...

Cheers, definitely on of my fav knives.

I've been thinking bout it for a while and just haven't had funds to get something and dunno what I'd even look for that is reasonable price with a workable scandi for a "beginner" with that grind type. My concern has always been I'd ruin the knife trying to maintain it.