Why Use Carbon Steel?

Carbon is cheaper and much easier for the maker, for an inferior product for the customer, all under the positive guise of "old school" or "tradition", what's not to love?

Jay Fisher:

"There are even web sites claiming that only standard carbon steel blades should be used for swords, and sadly, this ignorance of what constitutes a fine blade is prevalent in many sources, both in digital and print media. Just as in fine knives, fine, high alloy martensitic stainless and other high alloy tool steels are absolutely the best for any knife, whether it is a small utility tool, a medium sized hunting knife, a large kitchen knife, a stout tactical knife, a khukri with a sixteen inch long blade, or a full sized rapier with a forty-four inch (110 cm) long blade. A simple question then, would be why these fine steels are not commonly mentioned or recommended? Most people do not even know that a sword can be made of, for example, 440C high chromium martensitic tool steel. Many of these self-proclaimed reference sources have never even seen a blade of fine stainless tool steel and they are still stuck in the past wives' tales of how all stainless steel is bad."

Bernard Levine:

"I have owned about 10,000 antique kitchen and butcher knives, and examined perhaps 20 times that number. I have found that good quality modern stainless steel knives, when properly sharpened, are superior in use to all older knives, even the very best. Stainless steel knives can be made at least as sharp as carbon steel ones, they stay sharp many times longer, and of course, they do not stain... the president of a major knife company put it very well when he said to me that preferring carbon steel knives over stainless steel ones is like preferring vacuum tube radios over transistor ones."

--Bernard Levine, Levine's Guide to Knives, 1985


The funny thing is... Back when diamond hones were rare, stainless steels were all the rage, precisely when they were hard to sharpen without deforming the coarse stones while re-profiling... Any "tactical knife" worth its salt back then was stainless... When that meant a dull stone re-profile by hand... Now that we have diamond hones, and that Carbon steels are about as obsolete as the flintlock rifle, MOST of what we get, just at precisely the moment we stopped needing it, are Carbon steel production tactical/bushcraft knives...

We needed today's 1095 Esees, Tops, Ontario and Beckers forty years ago, and we would badly need some of the old 440C/Aus-8 stuff today... Weird world...

Jay Fisher once more on the toughness advantages of stainless:

"High tensile strength. Specifically, this is the maximum load that a steel can bear without stretching permanently. This is typically the strength factor of steel that is critical to making a steel choice. How different are the stainless tool steels than standard carbon steels? Incredibly different. The tensile strength of 1025 standard carbon steel is 440 MPa (megapascals) or 63,816 pounds per square inch. This seems enormous, but remember that many hundreds or perhaps thousands of PSI of pressure are applied to the microscopic cutting edge. The strength of 440C high chromium martensitic tool steel? How about 2030 MPa (294,426 PSI), over four and a half times stronger! "

This is why you see so much fewer broken stainless knives if you do a simple google search, even for the cheap Chinese crap mystery stainless...

This is also why differential tempering helps carbon blades from falling apart, while stainless just keeps going with a single hardness throughout... Just Cold Steel alone should open anyone's eyes: Unlike most Esee, Ontario or Beckers blades, they have made the same blade designs in both stainless and carbon blades, and you can find a plethora of the carbon stuff broken, and very little of the stainless... Most common on the stainless are half-moon chunks of the edge, which indicates prying with the edge stuck, the easiest way by far to cause a failure...

I don't know how things ever got so upside down, but there you go...

Gaston
 
"I hate sharpening stainless" not saying its right but they think it is..

Truer words were never spoken. Take a good Sandvik 14C28N (if you can find it), or the easy to find AEB-L and it properly HT'd and you'll find it to take an edge just as well as any carbon steel, and is just as easy sharpened.

I think the aversion to stainless comes from the old stainless that wasn't very good for blades, crappy 440, etc. a good 440C is a very good stainless also.

Ken h>
 
I think it's also a bit of clever marketing. You see the term "high carbon" touted quite a bit. Also there are companies that make these mean looking battle knives with coated blades and all the weekend warriors need carbon steel because it is so tough. I often read that bushcraft knives need to be carbon steel because they are easy to sharpen. I don't get it, and it's not for me.
 
Truer words were never spoken. Take a good Sandvik 14C28N (if you can find it), or the easy to find AEB-L and it properly HT'd and you'll find it to take an edge just as well as any carbon steel, and is just as easy sharpened.

I think the aversion to stainless comes from the old stainless that wasn't very good for blades, crappy 440, etc. a good 440C is a very good stainless also.

Ken h>
Couldent agree more. Im sure most are thinking about crappy, gummy old Taiwanese or Chinese stainless steel in some walmart kitchen knife or flea-market pocket knife.
Don't get me wrong, I love my carbon steel too I just don't get the misplaced hate that stainless sometimes get because of misunderstanding.
 
wow as a new guy just learning about all this, this is a VERY interesting read. All the hype on the interwebs is mainly 1095, 1084, D2, 52100 so it's very confusing for someone just getting started on what steel to try. there definitely seems to be a bunch of hate towards SS.
thanks for the info gents
 
And what is the impact resistance of 440C compared to say some crusty old "carbon" steel like L6? How about S7? I don't know where you have been looking, but by observations have been that the stainless steel used by many of the German kitchen cutlery manufacturers come out of heat treatment with the almost miraculous ability to both roll/flatten and chip the edge on the same blade. With the inferior carbons steel that many of us use, you typically have to pick one and go with it ;) As for choosing 1095, i suspect for many of the manufacturers that you mentioned is it an issue of cost, not only for materials but for processing including heat treatment,.
Carbon is cheaper and much easier for the maker, for an inferior product for the customer, all under the positive guise of "old school" or "tradition", what's not to love?

Jay Fisher:

"There are even web sites claiming that only standard carbon steel blades should be used for swords, and sadly, this ignorance of what constitutes a fine blade is prevalent in many sources, both in digital and print media. Just as in fine knives, fine, high alloy martensitic stainless and other high alloy tool steels are absolutely the best for any knife, whether it is a small utility tool, a medium sized hunting knife, a large kitchen knife, a stout tactical knife, a khukri with a sixteen inch long blade, or a full sized rapier with a forty-four inch (110 cm) long blade. A simple question then, would be why these fine steels are not commonly mentioned or recommended? Most people do not even know that a sword can be made of, for example, 440C high chromium martensitic tool steel. Many of these self-proclaimed reference sources have never even seen a blade of fine stainless tool steel and they are still stuck in the past wives' tales of how all stainless steel is bad."

Bernard Levine:

"I have owned about 10,000 antique kitchen and butcher knives, and examined perhaps 20 times that number. I have found that good quality modern stainless steel knives, when properly sharpened, are superior in use to all older knives, even the very best. Stainless steel knives can be made at least as sharp as carbon steel ones, they stay sharp many times longer, and of course, they do not stain... the president of a major knife company put it very well when he said to me that preferring carbon steel knives over stainless steel ones is like preferring vacuum tube radios over transistor ones."

--Bernard Levine, Levine's Guide to Knives, 1985


The funny thing is... Back when diamond hones were rare, stainless steels were all the rage, precisely when they were hard to sharpen without deforming the coarse stones while re-profiling... Any "tactical knife" worth its salt back then was stainless... When that meant a dull stone re-profile by hand... Now that we have diamond hones, and that Carbon steels are about as obsolete as the flintlock rifle, MOST of what we get, just at precisely the moment we stopped needing it, are Carbon steel production tactical/bushcraft knives...

We needed today's 1095 Esees, Tops, Ontario and Beckers forty years ago, and we would badly need some of the old 440C/Aus-8 stuff today... Weird world...

Jay Fisher once more on the toughness advantages of stainless:

"High tensile strength. Specifically, this is the maximum load that a steel can bear without stretching permanently. This is typically the strength factor of steel that is critical to making a steel choice. How different are the stainless tool steels than standard carbon steels? Incredibly different. The tensile strength of 1025 standard carbon steel is 440 MPa (megapascals) or 63,816 pounds per square inch. This seems enormous, but remember that many hundreds or perhaps thousands of PSI of pressure are applied to the microscopic cutting edge. The strength of 440C high chromium martensitic tool steel? How about 2030 MPa (294,426 PSI), over four and a half times stronger! "

This is why you see so much fewer broken stainless knives if you do a simple google search, even for the cheap Chinese crap mystery stainless...

This is also why differential tempering helps carbon blades from falling apart, while stainless just keeps going with a single hardness throughout... Just Cold Steel alone should open anyone's eyes: Unlike most Esee, Ontario or Beckers blades, they have made the same blade designs in both stainless and carbon blades, and you can find a plethora of the carbon stuff broken, and very little of the stainless... Most common on the stainless are half-moon chunks of the edge, which indicates prying with the edge stuck, the easiest way by far to cause a failure...

I don't know how things ever got so upside down, but there you go...

Gaston
 
Carbon steels range in wear resistance and toughness from 1045 to F2/F3 type finishing steels. Stainless also has a wide range of properties, wear resistance, toughness and stain resistance, from a simple 420hc through S125V.

In general carbon steels have smaller carbides than stainless. Smaller and evenly distributed carbides pin grain boundaries and allow for grain refinement. Aeb-l has the smallest carbides for a stainless steel that I know of. 52100 has the smallest carbides for any steel that I know of.

The smaller the carbides, the keener the edge, the tougher the steel, and the easier to sharpen. Larger carbides are prone to carbide pullout, which means that you must abrade more off of the edge to get the knife back to full sharp.

Carbon steels respond well to thermal cycling, and with practice, are easier to heat reat with simpler equipment.

Carbon steels that I like are: 52100, cru forge-v, Hitachi white and would love to get some F2/F3 someday. Stainless steels that I like are: AEB-L and 40CP. This is not a complete list of course.

Correct heat treatment is more important than steel choice.

Hoss
 
I normally try to stay out of threads like this but...

I have done real work optimizing the best stainless steels and the best tool steels and the best carbon steels and it is clear to me that some folks here have an oversimplified understanding of what constitutes "strength". "294,426 PSI tensile" strength sounds impressive until you consider a HRC 63 D2 steel blade is over 320 KSI but would fail miserably in a sword. You could clack it on the floor and it would break.

Unfortunately, impact numbers that measure energy absorbed in a break are often equally meaningless.

I can tell you with absolute certainty that stainless steel in large blades subject to harsh use and impact is a mistake. On that application, anything in the matrix that is not carrying its weight is a liability, and that applies to excessive chrome, excessive carbide volume and any other non-martensitic structures. If you have enough free chrome to be stainless, there is a tradeoff.

I'll leave you with this parting thought: the landing gear on an airplane is not something like 440C stainless... lol...
 
wow as a new guy just learning about all this, this is a VERY interesting read. All the hype on the interwebs is mainly 1095, 1084, D2, 52100 so it's very confusing for someone just getting started on what steel to try. there definitely seems to be a bunch of hate towards SS.
thanks for the info gents

Also, D2, and 52100 are not simple carbon steels. I can tell you, in my bigger pieces where high impact and torque I know which one I'm picking. 440C is plenty for my uses in folders, or small to medium fixed blades. Would I choose it for a 10+ inch chopper? No. Same with D2. Not that either could not be made to serve.

But there are steels that excel in hard use, long, high torque blades.

Swords, big choppers, and full tang combat axes are not the same as a folder or a medium skinner, etc.

For me, D2, satin finished, is basically stainless. (Mine is Queen's D2). And holds an edge longer than my simple carbon steels.

52100 holds an edge longer and I feel, is a stronger steel than my 10xx carbon steels.

One of the things I like about carbon steels, the simple 1095 etc, is that in my slip joints it ages. It takes a patina. When I scratch it, it looks good. The scratches also age, and darken.


When I scratch my stainless, it just looks scratched. It does not look old.


I like that character. That old feeling.


I have knives that my grandfather used to butcher animals on his farm. They are old. They feel old. The scratches look great, and darken.












Some of the preference you find for simple carbon steels is simply ignorance.When I hear some one saying "I know it has to be carbon steel, because it is the bestest at every thing" I chuckle.

I prefer tool steels. Alloys that have better edge retention, and strength than simple carbon steels. Modern steels have raised the performance/strength, impact, edge retention levels significantly.

I use stainless too. And I know it has better edge retention than my simple carbon.

But some of it has nostalgic reasons.
 
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I normally try to stay out of threads like this but...

I have done real work optimizing the best stainless steels and the best tool steels and the best carbon steels and it is clear to me that some folks here have an oversimplified understanding of what constitutes "strength". "294,426 PSI tensile" strength sounds impressive until you consider a HRC 63 D2 steel blade is over 320 KSI but would fail miserably in a sword. You could clack it on the floor and it would break.

Unfortunately, impact numbers that measure energy absorbed in a break are often equally meaningless.

I can tell you with absolute certainty that stainless steel in large blades subject to harsh use and impact is a mistake. On that application, anything in the matrix that is not carrying its weight is a liability, and that applies to excessive chrome, excessive carbide volume and any other non-martensitic structures. If you have enough free chrome to be stainless, there is a tradeoff.

I'll leave you with this parting thought: the landing gear on an airplane is not something like 440C stainless... lol...

Such a trade-off as increased edge-holding for instance?

Why bring a D-2 sword to HRC 63? I'm sure at 55-56 it would do fine...

Maybe stainless is not typical of landing gears, but landing gears are not necessarily low alloy 1095 carbons either...: Given the contradictory need to hold sharp edges while being hard, something that a landing gear doesn't need to worry about, I wouldn't necessarily expect a good blade steel to come out of the gear of an aircraft:

"The alloys used for landing gear have remained relatively constant over the past several decades. Alloys like 300M and HP9-4-30, as well as the newer alloys AF-1410 and AerMet 100, are in use today on commercial and military aircraft. Newer alloys like Ferrium S53, a high-strength stainless steel alloy, have been proposed for landing gear applications."

I am sure there is a way to make a good stainless sword. In any case I am soon getting an 11.25" Carbon steel knife, and it will probably get a good workout: If it does any better than a stainless one of similar size, I would be very surprised...

Gaston
 
Carbon is cheaper and much easier for the maker, for an inferior product for the customer, all under the positive guise of "old school" or "tradition", what's not to love?

Jay Fisher:

"There are even web sites claiming that only standard carbon steel blades should be used for swords, and sadly, this ignorance of what constitutes a fine blade is prevalent in many sources, both in digital and print media. Just as in fine knives, fine, high alloy martensitic stainless and other high alloy tool steels are absolutely the best for any knife, whether it is a small utility tool, a medium sized hunting knife, a large kitchen knife, a stout tactical knife, a khukri with a sixteen inch long blade, or a full sized rapier with a forty-four inch (110 cm) long blade. A simple question then, would be why these fine steels are not commonly mentioned or recommended? Most people do not even know that a sword can be made of, for example, 440C high chromium martensitic tool steel. Many of these self-proclaimed reference sources have never even seen a blade of fine stainless tool steel and they are still stuck in the past wives' tales of how all stainless steel is bad."

Bernard Levine:

"I have owned about 10,000 antique kitchen and butcher knives, and examined perhaps 20 times that number. I have found that good quality modern stainless steel knives, when properly sharpened, are superior in use to all older knives, even the very best. Stainless steel knives can be made at least as sharp as carbon steel ones, they stay sharp many times longer, and of course, they do not stain... the president of a major knife company put it very well when he said to me that preferring carbon steel knives over stainless steel ones is like preferring vacuum tube radios over transistor ones."

--Bernard Levine, Levine's Guide to Knives, 1985


The funny thing is... Back when diamond hones were rare, stainless steels were all the rage, precisely when they were hard to sharpen without deforming the coarse stones while re-profiling... Any "tactical knife" worth its salt back then was stainless... When that meant a dull stone re-profile by hand... Now that we have diamond hones, and that Carbon steels are about as obsolete as the flintlock rifle, MOST of what we get, just at precisely the moment we stopped needing it, are Carbon steel production tactical/bushcraft knives...

We needed today's 1095 Esees, Tops, Ontario and Beckers forty years ago, and we would badly need some of the old 440C/Aus-8 stuff today... Weird world...

Jay Fisher once more on the toughness advantages of stainless:

"High tensile strength. Specifically, this is the maximum load that a steel can bear without stretching permanently. This is typically the strength factor of steel that is critical to making a steel choice. How different are the stainless tool steels than standard carbon steels? Incredibly different. The tensile strength of 1025 standard carbon steel is 440 MPa (megapascals) or 63,816 pounds per square inch. This seems enormous, but remember that many hundreds or perhaps thousands of PSI of pressure are applied to the microscopic cutting edge. The strength of 440C high chromium martensitic tool steel? How about 2030 MPa (294,426 PSI), over four and a half times stronger! "

This is why you see so much fewer broken stainless knives if you do a simple google search, even for the cheap Chinese crap mystery stainless...

This is also why differential tempering helps carbon blades from falling apart, while stainless just keeps going with a single hardness throughout... Just Cold Steel alone should open anyone's eyes: Unlike most Esee, Ontario or Beckers blades, they have made the same blade designs in both stainless and carbon blades, and you can find a plethora of the carbon stuff broken, and very little of the stainless... Most common on the stainless are half-moon chunks of the edge, which indicates prying with the edge stuck, the easiest way by far to cause a failure...

I don't know how things ever got so upside down, but there you go...

Gaston

Jay is being, IME, intentionally misleading there on the strength numbers (those are strengths, not toughness, which is a different measure and won't have such high values). Comparing 1025 in the unhardened state to hardened 440C to make a point is a bit skewed. No maker I've heard of uses unhardened steel, let alone 1025, with maybe 2 exceptions. The values he's using for 440C will be comparable to any other steel hardened for a cutting tool, and by comparable, I mean about the same magnitude, 290 ksi and up. To use his example, that rapier blade will bend in 1025, but will break if made of 440C at high hardness. I've had enough trouble with 440 series steels in larger blades that I'd be very hesitant to trust it again. Now, 420 J2 or similar, not so much, but that's a whole different animal.

The "carbon vs. stainless" comparison is essentially meaningless now. More details have to be provided. Condor's 420 stainless machetes are quite tough, M2 at high hardness is tougher than you'd expect and every combination you can think of can probably be had.

As for why use plain carbon steels, they are generally preferred for ease of manufacture, low cost, and have a huge range of properties. Stainless is more difficult to process to a high standard and more expensive. When enough chromium is put into steel to make it stainless, with enough carbon to make it hardenable, there is a loss of toughness compared to plain carbon and low alloy steels of the same carbon content. The phrase "all else being equal" is often used when making such general comparisons, but it is very rare when making specific comparisons and is really about as meaningless as the carbon vs. stainless debate to start with. In the end, makers and users keep choosing plain carbon steels, low alloy carbon steels, and various non-stainless tool steels because they work.
 
There's a lot of information in this thread that I did not know about before. I have gained much knowledge from this forum. I just make stainless steel blades because my customers want sporting knives that are rust resistant. I use 440C, CPM 154, ATS 34, and 154 cm. I would use S30v but I have not bought any. Most of my customers if asked what steel they want say 440C and that is fine with me although I use tons of CPM 154 when left to my own desires. I like carbon steel knives too but rarely make one because I do not forge steel and the customers ask for stainless...maybe it's a "California thing". Larry PS here's a photo of a 440 C knife I made this year. (engraving by Sarah Smith of Bakersfield) LL
VgYxILLl.jpg
 
Also, D2, and 52100 are not simple carbon steels. I can tell you, in my bigger pieces where high impact and torque I know which one I'm picking. 440C is plenty for my uses in folders, or small to medium fixed blades. Would I choose it for a 10+ inch chopper? No. Same with D2. Not that either could not be made to serve.

But there are steels that excel in hard use, long, high torque blades.

Swords, big choppers, and full tang combat axes are not the same as a folder or a medium skinner, etc.

For me, D2, satin finished, is basically stainless. (Mine is Queen's D2). And holds an edge longer than my simple carbon steels.

52100 holds an edge longer and I feel, is a stronger steel than my 10xx carbon steels.

One of the things I like about carbon steels, the simple 1095 etc, is that in my slip joints it ages. It takes a patina. When I scratch it, it looks good. The scratches also age, and darken.


When I scratch my stainless, it just looks scratched. It does not look old.


I like that character. That old feeling.


I have knives that my grandfather used to butcher animals on his farm. They are old. They feel old. The scratches look great, and darken.












Some of the preference you find for simple carbon steels is simply ignorance.When I hear some one saying "I know it has to be carbon steel, because it is the bestest at every thing" I chuckle.

I prefer tool steels. Alloys that have better edge retention, and strength than simple carbon steels. Modern steels have raised the performance/strength, impact, edge retention levels significantly.

I use stainless too. And I know it has better edge retention than my simple carbon.

But some of it has nostalgic reasons.

thanks for clearing up the simple carbon thing.

I have yet to make my first knife I'm attempting to gather as much knowledge before I do. and posts like these help.
I've kind of shyed away from stainless due to my lack of knowledge on the subject.
so what is it exactly that makes 52100 not a simple carbon steel, is it the other properties that are in it?
 
Hoss, what is F2/F3?
Carbon steels range in wear resistance and toughness from 1045 to F2/F3 type finishing steels. Stainless also has a wide range of properties, wear resistance, toughness and stain resistance, from a simple 420hc through S125V.

In general carbon steels have smaller carbides than stainless. Smaller and evenly distributed carbides pin grain boundaries and allow for grain refinement. Aeb-l has the smallest carbides for a stainless steel that I know of. 52100 has the smallest carbides for any steel that I know of.

The smaller the carbides, the keener the edge, the tougher the steel, and the easier to sharpen. Larger carbides are prone to carbide pullout, which means that you must abrade more off of the edge to get the knife back to full sharp.

Carbon steels respond well to thermal cycling, and with practice, are easier to heat reat with simpler equipment.

Carbon steels that I like are: 52100, cru forge-v, Hitachi white and would love to get some F2/F3 someday. Stainless steels that I like are: AEB-L and 40CP. This is not a complete list of course.

Correct heat treatment is more important than steel choice.

Hoss
 
F1, F2, F3 were common tool steels back in the day. They are high carbon steels with 1.25% carbon and 1.5-3.5% tungsten. Some had additional small amounts of cr or mo. They have been replaced with high speed steels today.

The closest thing today is blue-super. Roman Landes lists it in the back of his book, Russ Andrews has used it in the past. I've never used it. Looks good on paper.

O7 is similar to F1.

Hoss
 
On the less technical end, i find that customers feel like a carbon steel knife is somehow "more" custom. I think the idea that it was forged out of a bar and quenched in oil "though everyone else thinks its water" makes it seem more special. When you go to bed bath and beyond you see hundreds of stainless steel knives, but in a lot of peoples minds only craftsmen use carbon steel.

I guess it adds a little bit of an intangible aspect to the sale.
 
Carbon is cheaper and much easier for the maker, for an inferior product for the customer, all under the positive guise of "old school" or "tradition", what's not to love?

Jay Fisher:

"There are even web sites claiming that only standard carbon steel blades should be used for swords, and sadly, this ignorance of what constitutes a fine blade is prevalent in many sources, both in digital and print media. Just as in fine knives, fine, high alloy martensitic stainless and other high alloy tool steels are absolutely the best for any knife, whether it is a small utility tool, a medium sized hunting knife, a large kitchen knife, a stout tactical knife, a khukri with a sixteen inch long blade, or a full sized rapier with a forty-four inch (110 cm) long blade. A simple question then, would be why these fine steels are not commonly mentioned or recommended? Most people do not even know that a sword can be made of, for example, 440C high chromium martensitic tool steel. Many of these self-proclaimed reference sources have never even seen a blade of fine stainless tool steel and they are still stuck in the past wives' tales of how all stainless steel is bad."

Bernard Levine:

"I have owned about 10,000 antique kitchen and butcher knives, and examined perhaps 20 times that number. I have found that good quality modern stainless steel knives, when properly sharpened, are superior in use to all older knives, even the very best. Stainless steel knives can be made at least as sharp as carbon steel ones, they stay sharp many times longer, and of course, they do not stain... the president of a major knife company put it very well when he said to me that preferring carbon steel knives over stainless steel ones is like preferring vacuum tube radios over transistor ones."

--Bernard Levine, Levine's Guide to Knives, 1985


The funny thing is... Back when diamond hones were rare, stainless steels were all the rage, precisely when they were hard to sharpen without deforming the coarse stones while re-profiling... Any "tactical knife" worth its salt back then was stainless... When that meant a dull stone re-profile by hand... Now that we have diamond hones, and that Carbon steels are about as obsolete as the flintlock rifle, MOST of what we get, just at precisely the moment we stopped needing it, are Carbon steel production tactical/bushcraft knives...

We needed today's 1095 Esees, Tops, Ontario and Beckers forty years ago, and we would badly need some of the old 440C/Aus-8 stuff today... Weird world...

Jay Fisher once more on the toughness advantages of stainless:

"High tensile strength. Specifically, this is the maximum load that a steel can bear without stretching permanently. This is typically the strength factor of steel that is critical to making a steel choice. How different are the stainless tool steels than standard carbon steels? Incredibly different. The tensile strength of 1025 standard carbon steel is 440 MPa (megapascals) or 63,816 pounds per square inch. This seems enormous, but remember that many hundreds or perhaps thousands of PSI of pressure are applied to the microscopic cutting edge. The strength of 440C high chromium martensitic tool steel? How about 2030 MPa (294,426 PSI), over four and a half times stronger! "

This is why you see so much fewer broken stainless knives if you do a simple google search, even for the cheap Chinese crap mystery stainless...

This is also why differential tempering helps carbon blades from falling apart, while stainless just keeps going with a single hardness throughout... Just Cold Steel alone should open anyone's eyes: Unlike most Esee, Ontario or Beckers blades, they have made the same blade designs in both stainless and carbon blades, and you can find a plethora of the carbon stuff broken, and very little of the stainless... Most common on the stainless are half-moon chunks of the edge, which indicates prying with the edge stuck, the easiest way by far to cause a failure...

I don't know how things ever got so upside down, but there you go...

Gaston

You clearly don't have a clue on what you are talking about...

Carbon steel need differential tempering from falling apart while stainless keep going with a mono hardness is the most ridiculous thing I have ever read in knifemaker subforum...

Since you mentioned ESEE, Why not just ask them the reason why they dont put the "No Questions Asked Warranty" on their 440C line :rolleyes:
 
Why bring a D-2 sword to HRC 63? I'm sure at 55-56 it would do fine...

Gaston


I was merely pointing out that a high tensile strength (over 300KSI) does not equate to a strong sword. D2 wouldn't be ideal in a sword. Neither would a stainless.


Such a trade-off as increased edge-holding for instance?


Gaston

You think adding chrome increases edge holding? Why do you think that? What do you think edge holding is?


I am sure there is a way to make a good stainless sword.

Gaston

Removing excessive chrome would be a good start


In any case I am soon getting an 11.25" Carbon steel knife, and it will probably get a good workout: If it does any better than a stainless one of similar size, I would be very surprised...

Gaston

yeah
 
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