Wicked Edge Knife Sharpener

Okay, stop with the name calling (both of you, or we do a timeout, in the corner, with dull scissors and no way to sharpen.. and they'll be the left handed kiddy scissors)

MeDoctor - if you ordered the product, and you are seriously disappointed, send it back and I'm sure Clay will refund you the cost because he's not into having unhappy customers. If you aren't a customer, leave it to the customer to complain.

I am a customer, I ordered while they were back ordered, got my stuff in two shipments, and couldn't be much happier.

You have your opinion, you stated your opinion, if you don't have something new to add, other than more invective, I'd imagine there are better uses of your time. I use you in the plural form here.

PS

My beloved Spyderco Endura 4 FFG ZDP-189 is made in Japan. Not disappointed with it either. The US government's continued functioning relies on the debt being sold to China (China already owns us, look at what percent of our national debt they hold in their reserve, while we have an empty cupboard). The WE is a great product, whether made here or abroad. If nobody here would reply to Clay's call for a manufacturer, I guess it should have been shelved instead ????? Maybe next time there's a good idea here, somebody will be willing to manufacture it here.
 
clayallison said:
...... I put out RFQs to over 500 US companies and got literally zero responses. No one wanted to even consider making it, especially since my starting quantities were so low (only 1000 units.)
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This is something that is so very tragic in the USA.

What Clay is saying is 100% true. There was a time when you could find a machine shop and fabricator with little effort in either your own hometown or not far away - no more.

It's gone, either by attrition or design, but lets not go there.

Just to stay on topic I have no doubt that Clay did everything he possibly could to have every component of his product made here in the USA by American tradespeople.

And I have no doubt whatsoever that his objective is to bring the whole package home.

Keith
 
Thanks guys, it's really true. I spent months and months researching and trying to find someone here to make it. To further the discussion, I might add the following: anyone with leads on investment casting and injection molding companies that want work, please send them my way?
 
I apologize for subjecting the forum to my tirade! My triggers were pulled and I let loose...finished now! Hopefully that issue is now clear. Thanks Clay and Keith!

Leo
 
I have a Wicked Edge sharpener and I feel like the degree markings are kinda off on the left handed side. I try to dial in to a number and the edge of the pivot arm clamp sits over the degree marking causing the stone to sharpen at almost a full degree less than the opposite side. What am I doing wrong?
 
Sounds to me like something is out of alignment...I would write an e-mail to Clay or give him a call and he will advise you what to do. No fear, he will look after you. There is a toll free number.

Cheers
Leo
 
Wow..I'm also stuck on that same comment- 500 businesses and zero responses? What a disturbing commentary on the state of our country.

As for to the comment on getting two different angles despite the same setting- depending on the thickness of the knife being clamped, wouldn't the centerline (edge) be shifted slightly? The edge of thin blades would be shifted across the centerline while the edge on thick blades wouldn't quite make it across the center line. Not sure if that's true with the design of the W.E. though. If that's not the case, then I will say it's not unusual to sharpen a knife on the Edge Pro and have the two bevels be of slightly different width. Slight imperfections in the manufacture of the knife perhaps?
 
BladeChemist said:
As for to the comment on getting two different angles despite the same setting- depending on the thickness of the knife being clamped, wouldn't the centerline (edge) be shifted slightly? The edge of thin blades would be shifted across the centerline while the edge on thick blades wouldn't quite make it across the center line.
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I think you are correct in your explanation. I think it fair to presume that the designer of the WE calibrated the angles based on the stationary vertical fixed side of the clamp and the honing arms. If one was to clamp a blade so that its center line was parallel with the fixed vertical side of the clamp, then the resulting angles sharpened on the blade would be as indicated and have the same angle on both sides. However if the blade being clamped has its center line NOT parallel with the stationary vertical fixed side of the clamp then the angles sharpened into the blade will not match.
 
Gentlemen, this is one of our more important topics, and a pretty good discussion as far as I've just browsed it. I will remind you all to stay on topic and not discuss each other. Personal remarks are toxic to a technical discussion.

Also, we now have a new forum: Scott Solar - Cerakote - Wicked Edge
I am a certified Cerakote applicator in southern California and a dealer for the Wicked Edge knife sharpening system. I am an FFL holder.

Scott may be able to add information in the future. I won't move this thread to his forum because it discusses other topics.
 
Nosmo said:
I think you are correct in your explanation. I think it fair to presume that the designer of the WE calibrated the angles based on the stationary vertical fixed side of the clamp and the honing arms. If one was to clamp a blade so that its center line was parallel with the fixed vertical side of the clamp, then the resulting angles sharpened on the blade would be as indicated and have the same angle on both sides. However if the blade being clamped has its center line NOT parallel with the stationary vertical fixed side of the clamp then the angles sharpened into the blade will not match.
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This is a good observation. The centerline of the blade should be vertical to get exact symmetry. There is another consideration which is the thickness of the blade (as BladeChemist pointed out.) I designed the sharpener for an average blade thickness of 1/8". For most blades on the market, the variation of the thickness is not much of an issue, resulting in a difference of only several 100ths of a degree. More likely, there is an issue with user 748159263 49999's base rod. We've had a couple in the last run where the detents were out of position. To correct, please call or email and we'll get it replaced for you.
 
Wicked Edge arrived. Unboxing + initial comments...

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Hello all. I am a long-time follower of BladeForums and thought it might be time to add some content. The Wicked Edge System arrived a few days ago, and I have been very pleased.

After doing my homework, with help from BladeForum posters, I purchased almost every option available with the Wicked Edge with the exception of any extra course stones. I've used each set of stones from 100 to 1000 grit, the ceramic stones, and the leather strops with abrasive compounds down to 3.5 micron. I also purchased blank leather strops and will be testing with 0.5 micron Chromium Oxide paste, various diamond suspensions down to 0.25 micron, plus some 1 micron Boron Caride by Handamerican.

I am just starting out with a new mobile sharpening/polishing/restoration business which I truly enjoy. Having professionally sharpened a fair number of blades with varied equipment, I hope to continue updating the website (below) with additional micro-photography, goniometer observations, and comparisons with various processes.

Clay Allison's Wicked Edge joins other great tools that hopefully will help me jump from a hobbiest to a long-term small business operator. I currently own/use: Tormek T-7 with the upgraded Japanese water stone, Viel 1x42 belt system with many different belt substrates and abrasive grit specifications, including silicon carbide, cloth/cotton, cork, and specialized polishing belts,paper wheels from multiple sources, Spyderco SharpMaker, and I suspect nearly everything offered by DMT.

With an interest in Japanese steels and blades, I have also aquired Japanese water stones from Shapton, King, and others, with grit ratings from 800 to 12,000. With these finer waterstones, I consider myself a "newbie" and student after watching Dave Martell's DVD set "The Art of Knife Sharpening" from japaneseknifesharpening.com, plus Murray Carter's DVDs covering Blade Sharpening Techniques. Combined with Steve Bottorff's powerfully efficient book, "Sharpening Made Easy," I feel my understanding of the craft growing on a daily basis. By the way, I have had the honor to communicate directly with Clay A, Dave M, Murray C, and Steve B during the past few months and find each of them to be extremely knowledgeable, approachable, warm, and friendly, so I am confident I am involved with a craft that will continue to be very rewarding. The Wicked Edge appears to be an extremely fast manual system, which may provide a number of advantages. It will be interesting as I continue working with the system and comparing with these other approaches.

Photos of the new Wicked Edge packaging ("the unboxing") are included for reference as well.

(( rule violation ))

All the best, and thanks to all for sharing relevant and valuable info. This new endeavor is keeping me extremely busy, so it may be a while before I can add additional info or reply to questions. So please forgive me in advance if I am not as responsive as I would like to be here (for the short term).

Mike (( rule violation ))
 
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Mike... congratulations mate! I am happy to hear you have joined the Wicked Edge crew and I must say your mobile workshop set-up is very impressive. I have a feeling that you are going to be very successful in the sharpening business.
IMHO you have chosen the right tools for a Pro and soon you will probably be looking into the Shapton and Chosera stones adaptation of the WEPS hones if you need to sharpen a lot of chef knives who insist on the keenest edges available.
Huzzahs for you my friend and I am sure we all will be waiting to hear further news as your business evolves.

Very best regards :thumbup:
Leo
 
Just ordered my WE Pro. See how it goes in a week or so. Thanks for the info in this thread and sorry to necro an oldie.
 
knifephan said:
Just ordered my WE Pro. See how it goes in a week or so. Thanks for the info in this thread and sorry to necro an oldie.
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No problem! The topic of the Wicked Edge Sharpener is always dear to my heart! It is a great sharpener and you will love it!!

Cheers
Leo
 
knifephan said:
Just ordered my WE Pro. See how it goes in a week or so. Thanks for the info in this thread and sorry to necro an oldie.
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Thanks for your order. Please keep in mind that the stones need some time to break in. Your edges will get better and better the more you use your stones. You might start on a cheap knife just to get comfortable with the motion. Please call or email any time if you have questions.
 
Clay may have answered my question before I posted it... See what you guys think. So I got my WE in and have been working with 2 knives for starters, my Leek and my RC4. I am able to get both knives "paper test" sharp going down to the 1000 grit on each. I am not able to get either knife "shaving sharp" using the 1000 grit. Is this because the stones need breaking in, because I need to use my leather hones to get a "shaving sharp" edge or am I just doing something wrong?

Another issue I noticed is with the RC4 the blade has a little gap on either side when clamped into the WE. It does not appear to move while being sharpened, but it can be "twisted" from side to side by grabbing the handle. I am not sure if this matters at all, but it concerns me in that I might not be getting the same exact angle on each side of the blade.

Thanks for the help in advance.
 
What does it take to get an edge shaving sharp with the WEPS? Here are some things I learned over nearly 2 years with the WEPS.
Yes the stones need breaking in and there are a couple of other things to watch out for:
-in the case of the ESEE-4 or Rat-4, because it is full flat ground, wrapping a piece of chamois or pliable leather around the blade where it is clamped will fill the voids and help get the knife held evenly in the vise.
-did you raise the burr evenly and fully along the whole length of the edge? to be sure when raising the burr use an up and down scrubbing motion rather than the usual sweeping back and forth and make sure the scratches run right out to the edge along the full length of the blade; using a black Sharpie on the edge will help you see if you are getting it right;while raising the burr is the only time in the whole process when you actually use fair pressure with the paddles, the rest of the time when sweeping back and forth right through to the stropping part, the paddles should only gently caress the edge, no pressure.
-yes, using the strops will add the final touch to the edge and is an important part of the process.

If you do these things you can't help but get the edge you are looking for. One last hint, when you think you have a proper burr, to check it is really there, drag a cotton ball or Q-tip along each side of the edge from heel to point. The cotton will snag on the burr and you will visibly verify that the burr is actually there.No proper burr and there will be no razor sharp edge.
 
Leo - Thanks for the quick response.

I did use a sharpie to mark the edge on both knives, largely to get the angles right since I had no idea what they were originally at. I marked both of them more than once in the process to be sure nothing was changing and I was still hitting the entire edge.

I believe I had a good burr, I could feel it with the tip of my finger and the edge of my finger nail. I may have been using more than a gentle caress of pressure throughout the process though, may need to adjust that some. After 30 minutes with the WE I am already feeling more confident in my strokes on both sides of the knife.

Thanks for the tip on the RC4, I don't have any leather or chamois available, would a cotton t-shirt or some other fabric I might have around suffice?

I skipped the stops since all of this is new to me and I wanted to see how sharp the knife would get with just the 1000 grit stones. I will work on the strops next and see if I can't get these 2 knives popping hairs.

Thanks again.
 
Glad I could help mate! BTW there are burrs and there are burrs...using the up and down scrubbing motion and taking your time will give you what you want. I know a lot of folks try the burr with their nail but I think you will find the cotton ball or Q-tip gives you a clearer picture of the whole length of the burr. Stay relaxed and don't rush the whole process. It can be a very Zen experience especially if you work trying to feel what the paddles are doing and listening to the sound they make. If you do this you will soon know when each grit has done its job and so you move on to the next highest grit.
Good luck!

Leo
 
knifephan said:
Leo - Thanks for the quick response.

I did use a sharpie to mark the edge on both knives, largely to get the angles right since I had no idea what they were originally at. I marked both of them more than once in the process to be sure nothing was changing and I was still hitting the entire edge.

I believe I had a good burr, I could feel it with the tip of my finger and the edge of my finger nail. I may have been using more than a gentle caress of pressure throughout the process though, may need to adjust that some. After 30 minutes with the WE I am already feeling more confident in my strokes on both sides of the knife.

Thanks for the tip on the RC4, I don't have any leather or chamois available, would a cotton t-shirt or some other fabric I might have around suffice?

I skipped the stops since all of this is new to me and I wanted to see how sharp the knife would get with just the 1000 grit stones. I will work on the strops next and see if I can't get these 2 knives popping hairs.

Thanks again.
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Leo is bang on right about everything he said. The stones will take time to break in and strops will make an immediate difference. Good luck. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
 
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