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Wilder Forge Neck Knives
- Thread starter jawilder
- Start date
Tilley Knife
I'm Daniel, I make stuff
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2011
- Messages
- 2,264
This thread needs new pics. If Jason would hurry up and start a subforum, I could post them there. 
Awesome pics Daniel! I wish I had new pictures to post. There are 35 knives in this batch and it is eating my lunch. I know one thing for sure, no more batches this big! The heat treat process for 52100 takes a bit longer than O1 otherwise I would have the HT done already. I did part of it last night and hope to do the rest tonight.
I'm slowly trucking along and I promise that there will be pics soon, even it is only pics of works in progress so that no one lynches me because they don't have their knife yet.
I'm slowly trucking along and I promise that there will be pics soon, even it is only pics of works in progress so that no one lynches me because they don't have their knife yet.
Tilley Knife
I'm Daniel, I make stuff
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2011
- Messages
- 2,264
Good craftsmanship is always worth the wait. I just like taking pictures of my knives....figure I should post them some where.
As for you lucky 35 potential owners let me say, you will not be disappointed. Regards - D.
Thanks guys for your understanding!
I now have all the blades heat treated. Here's what I have to do next in order:
1. Grind of the decarb and scale from heat treat, grind the edge to final thickness, grind the flats to make sure everything is nice and flat
2. Stonewash, acid etch, or scotchbrite to obtain the final finish
3. Etch my name in the blades
4. Cut all the scales and liner materials to size, match them up, rough them up with rough sandpaper so the epoxy will adhere, epoxy the scales to the liners
5. Drill out the holes for the tubes/pins and cut the tubes/pins to size. This last part takes a long time because the tubes have to be exactly the right length and deburred
6. Shape and finish the ricasso end of the scales
7. Apply epoxy to the scales and flare the tubes while epoxy is still wet. This is a messy operation. It tests my patience when a tube splits or a piece of wood cracks. Thankfully I don't have to worry about this with G10 or Micarta. Clean up the extra epoxy that oozes out and give it a few days to set
8. Shape the handles with the sander then hand sand to 400-600 grit. Buff with pink polishing compound. This is also when I polish the spines.
9. Give them to my wife to inspect. This is when I'd love to hear her say, "ooh, these are perfect!" Unfortunately I usually hear, "These aren't done yet" and "this one needs more handle work"
10. Cut out the kydex to size, heat up, press, drill, rivet, shape, and work on the "snap" as needed
11. Take pictures and post
12. Sharpen, package, and ship.
Now I know that I projected that some of these would be done near the mid to end of June but I don't see that happening at this point because work has kept me from spending time in the shop lately. On top of that I have a trip to Florida scheduled in a couple of weeks to see the inlaws for a week. After that I HOPE to get some good shop time in.
For those who want to be on the next batch, realize that it may not be until this fall until I can get to it because I have 5 custom orders that have to get finished first. I try to do everything on a first-come, first-served basis.
Thanks for your patience.
I now have all the blades heat treated. Here's what I have to do next in order:
1. Grind of the decarb and scale from heat treat, grind the edge to final thickness, grind the flats to make sure everything is nice and flat
2. Stonewash, acid etch, or scotchbrite to obtain the final finish
3. Etch my name in the blades
4. Cut all the scales and liner materials to size, match them up, rough them up with rough sandpaper so the epoxy will adhere, epoxy the scales to the liners
5. Drill out the holes for the tubes/pins and cut the tubes/pins to size. This last part takes a long time because the tubes have to be exactly the right length and deburred
6. Shape and finish the ricasso end of the scales
7. Apply epoxy to the scales and flare the tubes while epoxy is still wet. This is a messy operation. It tests my patience when a tube splits or a piece of wood cracks. Thankfully I don't have to worry about this with G10 or Micarta. Clean up the extra epoxy that oozes out and give it a few days to set
8. Shape the handles with the sander then hand sand to 400-600 grit. Buff with pink polishing compound. This is also when I polish the spines.
9. Give them to my wife to inspect. This is when I'd love to hear her say, "ooh, these are perfect!" Unfortunately I usually hear, "These aren't done yet" and "this one needs more handle work"
10. Cut out the kydex to size, heat up, press, drill, rivet, shape, and work on the "snap" as needed
11. Take pictures and post
12. Sharpen, package, and ship.
Now I know that I projected that some of these would be done near the mid to end of June but I don't see that happening at this point because work has kept me from spending time in the shop lately. On top of that I have a trip to Florida scheduled in a couple of weeks to see the inlaws for a week. After that I HOPE to get some good shop time in.
For those who want to be on the next batch, realize that it may not be until this fall until I can get to it because I have 5 custom orders that have to get finished first. I try to do everything on a first-come, first-served basis.
Thanks for your patience.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2012
- Messages
- 691
Woot, I didn't notice the updates till today. Pls tell the misses to be extra picky with mine, I can be such a nag, haha
Thanks for keeping us posted man
Thanks for keeping us posted man
Just got the logo etched in all of them and a few stone washed. I'll acid etch tomorrow and start on the handles.
I promised pictures so here is one of all the neckers on my desk. They are covered in oil to keep them from rusting.
I promised pictures so here is one of all the neckers on my desk. They are covered in oil to keep them from rusting.
