Winter backpacking- wood processing saws/axes?

I never used to carry a saw or a splitter of any kind when I was younger, but as the years have gone on, I like to saw wood with my Svensaw instead of breaking it all by hand. It's safer. Small stuff is still stomped, but as size increases even cutting half way helps in wood processing. As of last year I own GB small splitter; I'll never go without it again. It splits better than any 8# maul I've owned. I don't baton. Fire, if nothing else, is physiological. Seems everything will be just fine once the fire gets going.
 
For wood processing a Sawvivor really works for me.





That said for smaller twig fires my hands and feet work just fine. Used them for this prep.



Don't forget the dry tinder.

 
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The idea situation is to use the fire's energy to break up the sticks. These fire lays are effective in my experience.

Star.



Crossover thingy.



Candle (keep pushing the sticks into the flames).



I see a bunch of prep done online for trips which beyond practicing skills (always good IMHO) is way over kill to get and hold flames. The less work the better and more so in winter. The only exception is gathering wood and prep at startup. Yea gotta have enough to get the fire going and enough for the night plus the next morning. No expert on this or any topic but have been forced to sniff around in the dark looking for wood and it sucks during winter.
 
How do you like that Roselli?

It is complicated. It chops very well and splits wood great however refuses to stick into wood. Very thick, almost a total wedge. The shape and beard lends itself to chocking up on the head for use as a hand tool. I am still on the fence as how best to sharpen it. The profile is a bit like a scandi with a noticeable secondary bevel. Takes down saplings for the UL wood stove really well which is what I wanted so overall I like it. Still the relationship, for lack of a better word is complicated.



The Sawvivor Rosseli combo did a good job here.



Worked good taking the top of a storm blownover Spruce for a Christmas tree.



 
+ 1 for Silky Saws

I bought one because a friend of mine who works as garden and landscape designer recommended it to me. At their company, everybody uses silky saws, almost every day.

I have a model with roughly 10 Inch blade size, so it folds into something around that size, too. Very packable. Depending on the amounts and sizes of wood you are going to process, you might even want to go forone of their bigger models. (Mine is the Oyakata).

Although the system might look a bit like your old days handsaw, they are much more efficient in my opinion. Also they cut while drawing, which saves a lot of energy. You can also switch between rough, medium and fine sawblades. Friends of mine are always fascinated when they see how fast and effortless it cuts.
 
The trailblazer is a great saw, hands down the fastest compact saw I've ever used. Granted, it is the largest of its type, so it better get the job done. unlike folding saws, it can do a full power cut in both directions, so dry wood just gets out of the way, and it will do green stuff not half bad either. Plus it is a replaceable blade if you ever use it up, and and the sweade-saw blade design is the best in my opinion for kind of stuff you'll run into. using a saw is way safer than bucking with an ax.
As for batoning, my opinion would be use the small ax, I feel its safer with cold hands than batoning with a knife with cold hands. if one guy carries the saw, and another carried the ax, it shouldn't add much to the total. And you can limb stuff much faster with a good ax if you are cleaning deadfall.
 
The OP was asking for saw recommendations, not camping advice.

I think conflicting assumptions or styles of camping may be in play. Bushcrafting is both a great skill set and a philosophy about being in the woods while using primitive approaches and tools. Closer to the land.

But, when you put some form of travel or goal at the top of the list, like climbing a peak, skiing a traverse or getting to a hunting location, then that goal takes top priority. Primitive camping techniques for their own sake, however fun or useful they are, typically aren't the most efficient at achieving these goals.


Here's the OP, quoted in full.

Had a real interesting experience this weekend on an overnight hunt in 5f/-15c. Got in the woods around 5pm and had an incredibly vigorous 5 hour snowshoe up some very steep mountainous terrain with some very heavy packs(for dudes that arent in USMC shape or anything resembling it). left us pitching camp late and wanting a big ol' blaze of a fire to warm us up and keep burning into the night.

Processing firewood in the wild with our pretty gansfors axes was a chore! And being that exhausted from working hard at high altitude was killer. It freaked me out being that tired and throwing the large head of the full size axe around. The smaller axe was safer when used kneeling but tedious/tiring for sectioning.



I'll never go out in serious winter without a folding saw again- jurys still out on whether I baton the sections with a small axe or use a prybar survival blade.

What do you folks find works as a BACKPACKABLE winter wood-processing solution?


My answer, and the answer of several other experience winter campers is, "None of the above".

The OP is not asking for axe advise. He's asking very literally about "wood processing" and doing so in the context of cold conditions, under a heavy pack and while be physically spent. Cold conditions, heavy packs and being physically spent is something that a lot of winter climbers and skiers understand and what we've found is that the safest, most efficient and most comfortable solution to lighting fires is to use a good camp stove.

When I stumble into a winter camp site all spent from a long and more difficult ski than I had anticipated, I recognize, just as the OP did, that things are actually now dicey. Things could go good or they could take a turn for the worse, right now. Hand and legs are shaky. Mind is foggy. Temperature is about to plummet. Digging around the woods for wood spends extra calories for a very low pay off and it involves sharp objects. Bad combo.

Here's my routine for "wood processing" in such conditions...

1) Drop pack and top off with gorp and water to stay on top of game during next hour.
2) Put on windshirt or VBL shirt close to skin and fleece over that to start drying out fleece during camp set up.
3) Get tent up and secure (biggest gain for warmth, by far).
4) Get sleeping gear out and set up (ready to go). [As body cools off, put on high loft jacket]
5) Get out "in camp" supplies, including head lamp in ready pocket (night is coming fast)
6) Set up kitchen, brew tea and prepare to make meal
7) Make dinner and clean up.
8) If all systems are go, feet, hands and body cores are warm and camp is working well, think about small camp fire for fun.

I've switched to a small, light Emberlit for camp fires. Enough to give some warmth and comfort. Doubles as a back up stove. Minimizes harvesting time and ash impact. Fires can be started (even splitting small tinder) with a small 3"-4" bladed folding knife.
 
Had a real interesting experience this weekend on an overnight hunt in 5f/-15c. Got in the woods around 5pm and had an incredibly vigorous 5 hour snowshoe up some very steep mountainous terrain with some very heavy packs(for dudes that arent in USMC shape or anything resembling it). left us pitching camp late and wanting a big ol' blaze of a fire to warm us up and keep burning into the night.

Processing firewood in the wild with our pretty gansfors axes was a chore! And being that exhausted from working hard at high altitude was killer. It freaked me out being that tired and throwing the large head of the full size axe around. The smaller axe was safer when used kneeling but tedious/tiring for sectioning.



I'll never go out in serious winter without a folding saw again- jurys still out on whether I baton the sections with a small axe or use a prybar survival blade.



What do you folks find works as a BACKPACKABLE winter wood-processing solution?
And this was what caught my eye. If I am asking for a gear recommendation, I'm not interested when people try to convince me to do things another way. I generally want to know what piece of gear works best. I'm assuming most of us are that way....

I've winter camped both in and out of the military, down to -14 F. Who cares? He's asking about a piece of gear.
 
If the OP is asking about equipment changes, then by necessity, he's also asking about people's experiences with other techniques or approaches.

Relying on a stoves *IS* an answer to the backpackable solution for wood processing question.

Different groups will approach these things differently. It's entirely fine if a group is 100% committed to a fire as a part of the fun.

It's another thing to bet your life and the life of the team on a fire and yet again another thing to think about the life or death question either with or without the knowledge that there are alternatives.

There's no need for fires in the winter. Unless it's the only approach one is aware of. My reading of the OPs post is that we're relying on the fire. IMO, that's both legitimate and risky.

FWIW, stoves are no silver bullet. Stove craft is much of a skill to be mastered as fire craft. IMO, this is best thought of as both/and, not either/or.
 
i have a bahco laplander that i'm happy with but two weekends ago i was able to use a silky folding saw that's close in size and it was more than twice as fast (20 secs vs. 50 secs on the same piece of wood roughly 4" in diameter) and less effort than the laplander.

silky comes in wide variety of lengths and i'll definitely upgrade to it down the road once my laplander is worn out or misplaced.

if you want to process huge logs though (as in thigh thickness) then i recommend something like the stanley fatmax. only 1.11 lbs and $16 from a hardware store here...next to my gb scandinavian forest axe and an 18" machete for size comparison...only other thing faster than that is a chainsaw.

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It is complicated. It chops very well and splits wood great however refuses to stick into wood. Very thick, almost a total wedge. The shape and beard lends itself to chocking up on the head for use as a hand tool. I am still on the fence as how best to sharpen it. The profile is a bit like a scandi with a noticeable secondary bevel. Takes down saplings for the UL wood stove really well which is what I wanted so overall I like it. Still the relationship, for lack of a better word is complicated.

Thanks - that pretty much confirms what I've hear elsewhere. I've been curious about them, but I'm not sure it's as general purpose as I would want.

Sorry for the tangent - now back to our regularly scheduled programming....
 
I have a Sven saw but never cared for it that much but I really like a smaller folding saw I have. I can't remember the brand.
 
My preferred solution is a portable saw combined with a medium (5-6”) knife for splitting. This combination is as light or lighter than a hatchet, safer to use and more energy efficient (for me).

I own and have used a variety of light weight folding saws including the following:

Sven 15”: 11 oz
Sven 21”: 14 oz
Bahco Laplander : 6.3 oz
Pocket Chain Saw: 4 oz (5.2 with tin)

The hatchet I use is an older Fiskars that weights 20 oz.

The Bahco and Chain Saw are my favourite. The Bahco is really good for that style of saw. The teeth are slightly flared out so the blade doesn’t bind. The Chain Saw is more energy efficient and lighter weight making it a good choice for carry. That said, the Bacho is easier to deploy, and slightly safer to use, and the one I tend to use the most. The knife I usually match these with is an older Cold Steel Carbon V SRK that weights 8oz (12 oz with sheath).

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Will, how are you finding the durability on that pocket saw? mine is pretty well worn and dull after only maybe a dozen uses, but I've punished it through some pretty hard wood. I would buy a new one, but only to have as an emergency saw, not a frequent user.
 
Will, how are you finding the durability on that pocket saw? mine is pretty well worn and dull after only maybe a dozen uses, but I've punished it through some pretty hard wood. I would buy a new one, but only to have as an emergency saw, not a frequent user.

So far so good. I haven't used it nearly as much as the Bahco mind you, but it has has been through more than dozen without issues. I have read a few reviews where others have complained about durability, specifically with either the chains links of handles breaking, but those are few and far between. As a frequent user I prefer the Bahco. I find it annoying to take the Chain Saw out, put away, and clean and oil (which I do after every use, or at least after every trip). The Bacho is a lot easy in that respect. The last few inches of the blade on the Bahco got bent to about 45 deg when I lent to someone. I just bent it back and straightened it out with my Leatherman. I figured the fix would be temporary and that I would have to replace it, but it works as well as new and there is no kink in the blade. That was years ago and it is still working as well as new.
 
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