WIP Amature Knife

If you mean the plunges themselves a rod wrapped in sandpaper may help after some controlled file work. If you mean all along the spine of the knife you may need to go to draw filing from the tip to the ricasso and them several sizes of sandpaper. I see your blade thickness has been reduced to about 1/8". That is very good. You may want to reduce the thickness of the metal at the handle as well. The steel in 1/8 - 5/32 will made good blades.
Looks to me you have done some more good work. Stay with it but time for the hand work now. Frank
 
Just on the side, I wouldn't work with tools and power tools wearing just slippers!
Things do drop and tools hurt, sharp tools hurt even more.
 
Well, I worked on the plunges with a file to straighten them. I also used the file to flatten the grind as much as I could. It was convexed a bit from the belt sander and operator error. I also used the Dremel to make a sharpening choil. The micarta scales and hardware came today along with the 1/4" eyelets for the sheath. I drilled 1/4" holes in the blade and mounted the scales. Now, to sand them to size. I made the mistake, as my dad pointed out, that I drilled the holes in the micarta scales BEFORE countersinking them. So, now I face the challenge of keeping the countersink bit centered in the holes. The chain ring bolt heads are flat-bottomed (not tapered), so the countersink holes should be too, even more difficult.


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Nothing wrong with convex bevels ! Just continue with a very good finishing before sending off to heat treat. It will be hand finishers head ache to clean it up after. It's continuing to come along well. Don't rush it just because you want to see what it will look like when finished. Frank
 
Thanks frank,

Yeah in gonna have to live with a 3/4 flat and convex gring. I'm trying not rush but its hard. I'm I hoping to have it ready for heat treating in 2 or 3 days.
 
Its way easier to get the bevels the way you want them BEFORE heat treat than trying to fix them AFTER. (don't ask me how I know :)) You will have this knife for many years. A couple more days before heat treat will seem insignificant every time you pick it up in future, and don't have to think "if only...." You are doing a great job. Don't rush now.
 
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Excellent point, Willie. That really puts it in perspective. I do definitely plan on finishing all grinding before heat treating. And I do know that even a slight cosmetic blemish will annoy me to know end when the knife is finished.

I worked on the scales today. I decided to add some green G10 liners. I did some rough contouring but plan on doing more. Micarta is a pain in the arse to sand. Its very hard, wearing out the orbital sanding pads quickly, and it also burns when using the Dremel with a sanding drum. Im also going to countersink the bolts tonight.

The orbital sander left a pretty neat finish on the spine very similar to a stonewash. Ill probably finish it using a straight sandpaper finish though. Im also no sure what grit finish I will take the micarta scales to. I kinda like the rough 120 grit texture right now.


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Well you made more progress but haven't done much on the edges of the scales. They should be rounded out or will make for a very uncomfortable knife to use. Take a course round file and start on them with that. You will find you will get done in a hurry . Sure the 120 grit finish is good to go. Frank












8, or 1é2and start to use it slowly. You will soon find you can do some terrific work with it
 
Yeah I was just working on the scales more. Countersunk the heads and formed the scales. I dont think ill round over the scales. I kind of enjoy the squareish look. What do you guys think. It is comfortable as it is.

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Perhaps I did not see what you had done, but what I see now looks just fine !! And the shaping from front to back is very good as well. You have done a great job. Frank
 
I agree with Frank. Great job! I personally like handles with a D shape, but if its comfortable to you, that's what counts.
 
I'm liking the shape and your progress! One thing I would like to see you fix before you have it heat treated is where your ran the plunge lines up and thru the spine. That is a no-no. The only way to fix it is to flatten the ricasso and handle down to get a small radius back at the top of the plunge line.
 
Barry Clodfelter said:
I'm liking the shape and your progress! One thing I would like to see you fix before you have it heat treated is where your ran the plunge lines up and thru the spine. That is a no-no. The only way to fix it is to flatten the ricasso and handle down to get a small radius back at the top of the plunge line.
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ugh, I know... I got a little excited with the file.

Thanks for the kind words guys. I did decided to round the scales and It looks and feels much better. I finished them with 220 grit.
 
Looks good H. I like it. If it feels comfortable to YOU that is the important thing. IMHO, cosmetics should follow functional form in a knife like this. I really like the light green G10 spacers too.
Cheers!
 
LucyCustomKnives said:
Looks good H. I like it. If it feels comfortable to YOU that is the important thing. IMHO, cosmetics should follow functional form in a knife like this. I really like the light green G10 spacers too.
Cheers!
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Thank you, I agree that form and function should trump appearance in a work knife. It wont look pretty forever!



So, after contouring the scales to my liking, I started to work on the sheath. Its gray .08" Kydex with nickel eyelets. I heathed the kydex, sandwiched the knife and pressed it in the wood vice you see in the picture. I bought the foam at knifekits online and it really worked great, It was very dense to give a detailed impression. I then drilled 1/4" holes in the Kydex, used a handheld tool to install the eyelets. I cut out the shape of the Kydex with the bandsaw and sanded the edges. I then messed around getting the retention just right.


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Very nice work ! I don't think anyone would know this is your first knife if you didn't tell them. I agree with Barry about the plunge lines but hey if it does not bother you and it will not create a stress point in heat treat I say leave it. Ask some of the other guys about the stress from plunge lines as I am not totally sure. If you want a lanyard hole do it now rather than later.I think you made a good choice going with the toxic green liners. The whole package looks really really nice.
 
flatblackcapo said:
Very nice work ! I don't think anyone would know this is your first knife if you didn't tell them. I agree with Barry about the plunge lines but hey if it does not bother you and it will not create a stress point in heat treat I say leave it. Ask some of the other guys about the stress from plunge lines as I am not totally sure. If you want a lanyard hole do it now rather than later.I think you made a good choice going with the toxic green liners. The whole package looks really really nice.
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Wow, thank you. Thats a huge compliment. Luckily I have access to a lot of great information on this site and there are so many willing to help out.

Last night, I did sand the tang down flat so the spine is even in width. Yes, thats a great point about the lanyard hole. I will drill another hole in the knife if I decide To put a lanyard on it in the future. Right now, I am working on jimping on the spine with a small triangle file.
 
That kydex work looks awesome man. Terrific job. My kydex attempts looked like a kids wad of play-doh for quite a while before I ever turned out something that nice.
This has turned into a great WIP thread and a terrific knife. Cheers!
 
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