WIP, first progress shots on my first folder *UPDATE* Prototype Works!

Joined
Sep 27, 2007
Messages
7,680
Well, after getting the tooling and materials that I thought I would need (I'm probably forgetting something), I got down to putting some ideas on paper for my first folder and got some templates on steel and titanium. I ended up with a longer handle than I had hoped for, but I think I can trim some length off and keep all necessary clearance, so I'll work on that tomorrow.

Here are a couple pics of my progress today. Thanks to all those who have been there to answer my questions and walk me through some new stuff, including hand tapping titanium for 2-56 screws, which I was nervous about. After doing fixed blades for a while now I feel like I'm starting from scratch all over again. Lots of new stuff to learn.

These first two protos are and adaptation of my Mini Spear Point fixed blade and will have .079" Ti liners with G-10 handle slabs and the blades will be .180" Bohler N690 stainless.

Any input is welcome. Thanks guys!

DSCN4353.jpg


DSCN4354.jpg


DSCN4339.jpg


DSCN4342.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hi Johnny.
It's hard to look at the "short" blade in a long handle at first but it isn't as near bad as you think. Sure trim the handle to fit of course but there is only so much that can be done, and then that's it.
The patterns look very good. I suggest you make hard patterns and drill the hole where the pivot will be to test out but hey this looks real fine ! Frank
 
Go Jonny go! Been seeing all your question threads and just waiting for this one to pop up... will follow this diligently! :thumbup:
 
It looks good and drawing your patterns out is a great way to start. If they work on paper they will work on steel.
If I can make one suggestion, you should move the flipper tab back closer to the tang of the blade. Where it currently resides is too far behind the pivot in the closed position and it won't flip properly. If your pivot is where the cross hairs meet then it is too centered and too far forward. Take your blade and handle pattern and stick a push pin in where you think the pivot should go and open and close the knife. Currently you will not have room for a backspacer or standoffs. Pull the push pin out and move it till you get the knife to function properly.
 
It looks good and drawing your patterns out is a great way to start. If they work on paper they will work on steel.
If I can make one suggestion, you should move the flipper tab back closer to the tang of the blade. Where it currently resides is too far behind the pivot in the closed position and it won't flip properly. If your pivot is where the cross hairs meet then it is too centered and too far forward. Take your blade and handle pattern and stick a push pin in where you think the pivot should go and open and close the knife. Currently you will not have room for a backspacer or standoffs. Pull the push pin out and move it till you get the knife to function properly.

Thanks guys,
Chuck, I realized after these shots that the flipper would come out too far back on the spine. I had considered scrapping the flipper altogether, but I really wanted to see if I could keep and work out the geometry better. I was too tired last night to rework it, but will get some shop time this afternoon and will modify the drawing some. I did use a pin when I picked my pivot spot and I allowed for some standoffs. This blade doesn't have too much belly, and the drawing has a bit of extra meat around the edge. I'll try to get a picture in a few minutes with the blade in the closed position.

Thanks!
 
Nice to see you make the leap to folders:thumbup: I still haven't got the nerve to jump on the design I came up with a while back:o I will be watching this closely to see how it goes for you. You never know you may finally get me off my butt and start on the one I drew up. I laid out the blade about 2 months ago and it has been sitting in a drawer ever since.
 
Nice to see you make the leap to folders:thumbup: I still haven't got the nerve to jump on the design I came up with a while back:o I will be watching this closely to see how it goes for you. You never know you may finally get me off my butt and start on the one I drew up. I laid out the blade about 2 months ago and it has been sitting in a drawer ever since.

LOL Unky, while I was sitting at my workbench scratching my head for hours yesterday, drawing and re-redrawing, I kept thinking how much work I could have gotten done on a couple of fixed blades!:D

It's definitely fun though stepping into new territory. I'm enjoying these last few weeks.
 
OK, Chuck....
Here is a shot setup with the blade in the closed position. The pencil line is where the edge will sit in the handle with the current pivot point. Looks like there should be enough room for a couple of screws, right? I'm using 2-56 screws for construction. Not sure about standoffs or a backspacer yet, it depends on how things line up. I need to find out how thick my steel ends up after surface grinding.

The good news with your suggestion is that by moving the flipper tab back, I'll be changing where the stop pin will need to be, and will also be able to remove material from the tang behind the pivot for alignment with the stop pin in the open position. That should allow me to shave off some of the handle slabs in front of the pivot putting the pivot farther forward on the handle making my handle slabs more proportional to the blade. Don't know if you understand what I just said, but I think it makes sense!:D:o

DSCN4357.jpg
 
Well I haven't made any flippers but Chuck sure has and I know if the patterns fit and work, then it will work when you go to the metals to be used. Don't stop now, Johnny. Take your time yes,. You will overcome a big stopping point for many that the patterns will allow you to go forward. This can be a super knife !!! Frank
 
Thanks guys!
Chuck, here are the results of this afternoons design tweaks. The flipper has been pushed back on the blade so that it comes out at a more proper position when closed, stop pin location was adjusted and some meat removed from the end of the tang, and the front of the handle was shortened. The pattern is looking like it might come together just about right and I'll be leaving a bit of steel at the important spots for final fitting later on.

Thanks for all the input and encouragement guys!

DSCN4363.jpg


DSCN4362.jpg


DSCN4359.jpg


DSCN4361.jpg
 
I really like how the swedge lines up when it is closed. This design looks like it will really showcase your style!
 
Thanks Daniel! It's got me scratchin' my head here and there, but so far it's been lots of fun too. We'll see what happens......
 
Well, I made some progress this evening after work. Got the blade profiled and ready for stop pin fitting. Got one Ti liner cut, then my band saw blade finally died. Went to put on the spare and it's about 1/2" too short, won't fit on the saw. They're good Lenox Diemaster 2 blades made in the US, but they can't all be perfect I guess. Will have to order some replacements ASAP!!

DSCN4367.jpg
 
Nice! Looking good.

Titanium seems to trash everything I use on it, it is some tough stuff to work with. It is worth it though!
 
What are you doing Brother? haha... Very cool indeed, looking forward to the progress of this I am sure it will turn out sweet! I have a straight edge razor sitting somewhere on the bench that makes me cringe every time I look at it. No folders in the near future for me thanks.
 
Back
Top