WIP: HD drop point hunter/ utility fixed blade

Thanks again! I just got a heavy duty 115 lb. pull welder's magnet based on this thread and I couldn't be happier:thumbup: Who needs a surface grinder??:D:D Very good tool to have in the shop. With the heavy duty one that I picked up I found it didn't even matter when the blade got hot. Retention was really good, the blade never moved at all. Overall a very good addition to the shop and well worth the $15.00!!
 
Thank you Jim for providing this amazing tutorial and insight. I love your knives and have visited your site several times. I have one question about your belt progression. Do you use the Blaze 50, 80, 120 and then Norax 100x, 65x for both the flats and the hollow grind? I'm sure you explained it properly, but I got confused in reading the whole post.

Thank you,

Erik
 
Jim, thank you for taking time out to post this great tute! Beautiful knives, sir! :thumbup::thumbup:
 
Hi, Guys! Sorry for the (very) late response, I've been busy in the shop and haven't checked in here as often as I'd like.


alb1k said:
Thank you Jim for providing this amazing tutorial and insight. I love your knives and have visited your site several times. I have one question about your belt progression. Do you use the Blaze 50, 80, 120 and then Norax 100x, 65x for both the flats and the hollow grind? I'm sure you explained it properly, but I got confused in reading the whole post.

Thank you,

Erik
Click to expand...

You've got it right, Erik- the Norax 100x is around 100 grit and picks up from the Blaze 120- and it will flex to smooth the plunge area. I use the same belts on the flats and the bevel, only in different directions- the bevel is ground and polished in the direction of the edge, and the flats are done lengthwise from tip to butt. It's not neccesary, but I like the contrast and the definition of the grind lines.
Another step I have been using lately is a 400 or 600 grit cork belt, used after the final Norax belt. Load the belt with green chrome compound, and use this to get a shiny, satin finished surface.

Thanks again for all the compliments everyone, and I'm glad I can help!
 
For the point area, I rotate the blade downward slightly to follow the curve up to the tip. The idea is to keep your grind paralell to the scribed mark the entire length of the edge.

I can't wrap my head around this part. Do you rotate the tip down, or the handle down, and you are grinding edge up, right?

Thanks, RP.
 
Robert Parsons said:
For the point area, I rotate the blade downward slightly to follow the curve up to the tip. The idea is to keep your grind paralell to the scribed mark the entire length of the edge.

I can't wrap my head around this part. Do you rotate the tip down, or the handle down, and you are grinding edge up, right?

Thanks, RP.
Click to expand...

I rotate the handle down slightly, in order to keep the area of the edge I am grinding facing up on the wheel through the curve at the tip. It doesn't take much, and so probably is not that obvious in the pics. And yes, I grind edge up. I'll edit that post to be a little more specific- thanks for pointing that out!
 
Thanks JB.

One more question. When you are tilting the handle down are you tilting the edge away from the wheel slightly, allowing the belt to grind to the edge?

Thanks, RP.
 
I keep the edge touching the wheel throughout the entire grind including the point, but once the edge thickness is near the scribed lines I put most of the pressure lower (away from the edge). This raises the grind line pass by pass, while keeping the edge thickness the same. As long as I follow the edge as a guide, the grind lines stay consistent.
It's a little hard to say if I tilt the edge away slightly at the point- if I do, I haven't noticed it. I suppose I just have a feel for it now!
 
Excellent thread! Thanks for taking the time to post all of this! Great read for a new maker like me.
 
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