WIP: Newbie First Knife

So I cheated a little bit. After getting 95% of the shape done with the files I switched over to a rotary sanding thing. The wheels are about 8" in diameter and I used to to get a better polish on it, then I switched to sand paper. There are still some scratches and such in the blade, but its looking really good I think.

Question about the sander from HF: How long do the belts last and can you get belts from other places to fit it? Thanks

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syvmn said:
Question about the sander from HF: How long do the belts last and can you get belts from other places to fit it?
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I can get one belt to last for the finishing of the knife shape, and some of the wood for the handle, then usually I have to replace it for the rest of the handle, and then I can usually use that same belt for part of the grinds, but then I have to replace it to finish the grinds. I go through about 2 and a half belts per knife.

I also use the sanding belt cleaner stick to get the most out of each one.


I have only seen 1x30 belts at HF and I thought I saw them at lowe's too. 80 and 120 grit.
 
syvmn said:
So I cheated a little bit. After getting 95% of the shape done with the files I switched over to a rotary sanding thing.
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I wouldn't call that cheating. Use whatever you need to get the job done.

However, I would call it a little backwards. I'd suggest using power tools to get the bulk of the steel removed, then switch to files and paper. Not that you asked. :o :foot:
 
I've picked up belts at Lowe's for my 1x30. Like Mike said, 80 and 120 gators.

If you want to order online, Jantz has them for sure.

Walter
 
So I finished up sanding down the blade. My dad works for 3m so I got a bunch of sandpaper and went all the way to 2000 grit (just because I had it). The blade still has a few minor scratches in the metal but it looks pretty good. I didn't take any pictures because I figured it the same as the last pictures, just more shiny. At this point I think I am ready to heat treat. I'd like someone to confirm what I'm going to do before I do it.

I head the blade with a propane torch until it is non-magnetic and then quench in oil (10w-30?) until I can hold the blade in my hand. Then I throw it in the oven at 400F for an hour....is that it?

Do I need to get the whole knife, handle and all up to non magnetic or do i just need to get the bevel part of the knife up to that temp?

Should I drill the holes in the handle before or after heat treating or doesn't it matter?

Thanks!
 
I hardened the knife yesterday. I heated it with a propane burner that I have until a magnet wouldn't stick to the blade then dunked it in 5w-30 motor oil. I then stuck it in the toaster oven at 400F for about an hour and 15 minutes. how do i tell if it is hardened? I put a file to it and it seemed like it was scratching, although i wasn't sure if that was just the crap from the propane or if it was actually digging into the metal. Im afraid to really go at it for fear of ruining the blade.
 
I finally got in my carbon fiber scales. I drilled 2 holes for the pins that im using and got the scales down to a manageable shape so now I'm ready for the epoxy.

I looked at Menard's for devcon 2t and another epoxy that was mentioned here on the boards but all i found was lock tight stuff. Does anyone have suggestions where to find good epoxy?

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Fred.Rowe said:
Its all about the hops, not the name. I make a cherry stout that taste nothing like pie.:)
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I made Tootsie Roll Stout a few times. I make my basic stout recipe, then stir in 6 lbs. of melted (melted them in a double boiler) tootsie rolls into my wort, before putting in my wort chiller, to cool it down for pitching the yeast. It sounds odd, but it tastes spectacular!! It does taste like tootsie rolls a little bit.

I've tried Hershey's special dark chocolate, but it wasn't quite as good as the tootsie rolls.
 
Acroglas has been mentioned by quite a few makers as superior. JB Weld is used by some. The devcon stuff isn't the greatest and has done very poorly in the glue wars.
 
I saw the JB weld at Menard's so I think I'll go with that. One last question. The pins fit in really tight and I doubt I will be able to put any epoxy on it with it just squeezing out when I hammer the pin in. How do people normally seal the pins in? Thanks!
 
For drilling the pins, I’d recommend using a bit slightly larger for example for 1/8 pins I use a #30 bit. You can get these at Granger, Fastenall, most of the knife supply places or if you are lucky a good hardware store

I’d cut a notch in the pin as it will help hold more epoxy

There’s a couple of Golfsmiths around the twin cities and their shafting epoxy did pretty well in the “Glue Wars”. Its not too expensive, though it only comes in black.

http://www.golfsmith.com/products/9095B/Clubmaker/Shafting_Epoxy-1/2_Pint_Black
 
An alternative to the #30 bit would be to put the pins in a drill and spin with emery cloth.
 
Alright, I picked up some jb weld from Menard's and attached my scales. I got some of the gunk on the knife and realized now that I should have wrapped the knife in tape to prevent this (note for next time). Anyone know an easy way to get this crap off? I'll let this sit till tomorrow I think and then start grinding the excess away.

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I would finish up the work on the handle (tape the blade up now) and after the fact get a decent concentrate acetone or mineral spirits to remove the epoxy on the blade (brush it on to keep it localized) then a thin sheet of plastic to push it off. No scratches that way. Or a soft piece of metal as the acetone/mineral spirits will melt a good many plastics if your not quick enough.

Of course I'm on the finishing stages of my first knife so what do i know?
 
Well I think I'm just about finished. There are some rough areas where the tang meets the scales so i might clean that up a bit, but overall im pretty happy with how it turned out. IT LOOKS LIKE A KNIFE!

I noticed a few areas along the edge of the handle and the tang where apparently there wasn't epoxy so there are some gaps there. Next time I'll have to be much more careful how I put the epoxy on to get it really even. I thought I did a good job this time but apparently not.

Now I have to figure out how to make a sheath, or maybe find one to buy. Thanks for all the help!

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Thanks for the link! Do you happen to have any idea where to procure a bit of leather to try out a sheath or two. I'm a bit lost on what kind of leather I should be looking for and where to get a few smallish pieces to do a few trial runs. Thanks again!
 
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