WIP - Sunahama Kotanto, kaiken meets aikuchi...finished!

@STeven the stuff i have isn't particularly smelly, perhaps the processing varies...buffers are certainly quicker!
are you still putting that migaki and ibota to good use somehow from time to time?

Mine stinks....it smells like feet or sweaty armpits....it's whitish/clear and granular......

I tried using the migaki on a couple pieces of test steel and wasn't very good at it, whereas I can buff things in my sleep, and have the scars to prove it....so they really are not getting use at this time.

When I started studying sword arts, tried to get my hands on everything I could pertaining to them....STILL looking for decent fingerstone sources, because that is something that I can relate to....anyway, keep rocking, this is an awesome WIP!

You and Scott Roush are taking it up a level for sure!

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Cool. I'm going to have to try that patina on the habaki some time..

Steven, I've tried burnishing western steels and they tend to just gouge even with ibota. Maybe I'm just not doing it right but I've read somewhere where I think Howrad Clark was mentioning that it just doesn't work like it does on tamahagane.

I agree this is a great WIP.. makes me feel like I'm cheating even though I tend to use files and hand tools a lot more than I used to.
 
Cool. I'm going to have to try that patina on the habaki some time..

Steven, I've tried burnishing western steels and they tend to just gouge even with ibota. Maybe I'm just not doing it right but I've read somewhere where I think Howrad Clark was mentioning that it just doesn't work like it does on tamahagane.

I agree this is a great WIP.. makes me feel like I'm cheating even though I tend to use files and hand tools a lot more than I used to.

I have spoken with many Japanese bladesmiths AND togi who would happily use something besides tamehagane if they could from a performance perspective.

Pretty much hard to beat the material for aesthetics though, handled by a master who knows how to control or at least exercise SOME control on the processes.....this includes burnishing....I could probably nab some tamahagane from Bill Burke at Daniel's show.

Hand tools are cool, so are power tools. I watch Phil Baldwin work his power hammers like he is dancing but he has made most of his hammers by hand. Technology has a place, right?

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
thanks, @STeven, having fun and learning lots...

@Stuart it's potentially risky on a soldered piece but i had no issues this time, the very hot water helps...reducing atmosphere, quite a high heat, and immediate transfer to the bath are important to the final color...

any kind of tool is ok, i just enjoy the speed of working by hand and conquering each of these steps using traditional methods (and the more i improve my forging, the less time i spend filing)...for most makers (here and in Japan) something has to replace affordable apprentice work, and electricity fits the bill in most cases...

but sen and files are technology too, right?
 
This WIP is fastinating and informative with great photos.

Thanks for your considerable effort bringing this to us/me.

Anxious to see more.

Steve
------------
Member, W.F. Moran Museum & Foundation
ABS AP
 
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I have spoken with many Japanese bladesmiths AND togi who would happily use something besides tamehagane if they could from a performance perspective.

I can imagine so but I still haven't figured out a proper togiru paste that lets me use hazuya stones on W2 without scratching the hell out of it.. tamahagane is apparently much softer due to no alloying elements and why it burnishes like it does.
That said, I'm going by books and failed experiments, not talking with actual togi or smiths.
 
I can imagine so but I still haven't figured out a proper togiru paste that lets me use hazuya stones on W2 without scratching the hell out of it.. tamahagane is apparently much softer due to no alloying elements and why it burnishes like it does.
That said, I'm going by books and failed experiments, not talking with actual togi or smiths.

Hey Stuart....the bladesmiths and togi were fascinated by the steels they had access to in Japan, things like what Takefu does.....they are just legally required to use tamahagane from the Tatara, otherwise, they are making legally proscribed weapons, and one thing you DO NOT want to do is run afoul of the legal authorities in Japan.

A large part of keeping the polite society of Japan is an efficient and quite brutal legal system that turns tough guys into model citizens(or something like that).....I would rather get arrested in Tijuana than Japan....and Mexican police on the border are quite brutal as well.

We ran through all of shoden waza, spent a lot of time in seiza last night, and am quite stiff this morning.

Have you ever asked Keith Larman or Ted Tenold what they recommend for a steel like W2? If you have not, and would like me to, I am close to Ted.

To bring it back to the OP....you are quite the craftsman, and I admire your methods.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Thanks, gents!

...and keep the conversation of information going here, would like to hear more discussion and their input as well...polishing time is coming soon enough!
 
this step is not terribly involved, but it will provide some reading until the tsuka is well underway...**spoiler alert: sketch below**

This kotanto will have an all wood handle with a samegawa wrapping and no tsuba, so the only additional hardware required is a seppa, a thin metal washer for the habaki to shoulder against. The outline of the seppa will determine the profile of the handle so it is very carefully planned in the context of the finished project.

The opening in the seppa should be large enough that the tang does not actually touch it but small enough that the habaki can cover it. A punch is used to spread some material from the the top and bottom corners and they are adjusted to grip the corners of the nakago mune and the nakago-no-gata. The final patina will be a similar fired copper shu-do to the habaki.

kaiken-kotanto-77.jpg

Copper water pipe is annealed in the forge, split with shears, opened, and hammered flat. (this strip has already been cut in half, this pipe will open to about an inch and a half)

kaiken-kotanto-78.jpg

A rough opening is cut with a small chisel, as large as possible while still leaving enough room for a clean filed edge, and then hammered flat again.

kaiken-kotanto-79.jpg

The nakago-ana is enlarged and cleaned up using escapement files. As with tsuba, even though this will opening be hidden from view, making a lovely shape is considered a valuable contribution to the overall aesthetic.

kaiken-kotanto-80.jpg

Measuring from the top and bottom of the habaki rather than from the opening, the shape is laid out and chiseled, cut, or filed, and the edge refined on waterstones. The final size is based on a small edo period tanto fuchi that measured 34mm x 20mm. I took it down to 19mm in order to slim the proportions just a bit more but did not go further as the corners of the habaki on the 5.5mm wide ko-maru mune are already within 3mm of the rim on either side.

kaiken-kotanto-81.jpg

The finished seppa provides measurements to sketch out the rest of the koshirae. I have not done the final shu-do patina on the seppa yet, this will allow some forgiveness while working on the rest of the koshirae. This is usually the first point in a project where i begin to sketch in earnest (but because size is so critical to this piece, the dimensions on the top of the page were laid out before forging). The first sketch is based more on the kaiken tanto form as well as the piece that originally inspired this one, but since this project has blossomed into a proper aikuchi with the heart of kaiken, the second sketch is based on formal aikuchi tanto lines and has enthusiastic approval as the direction this is headed...

...next up, tsuka!
 
You read my mind with that second sketch. Love it.

Cool shot with the blade and habaki next to the sketches. Lines up pretty nicely! :cool:
 
yes, the blade is sitting on a freehand sketch, the other two are drawn around tracings of the actual blade...

on my screen the blade is about 85% actual size (ie, the 3.5" lines measure 3" on screen)
...which makes the handle about actual size of that early meiji tsuka that was 3" long...not too bad actually, but wouldn't work for all types of grip...
 
Great to see this going again.. I've been away from the forums. Awesome documentation of your habaki process. Great work...
 
...to continue an earlier discussion from another thread, **this just in: a "worst case scenario" test of a handle that used only sokui (rice paste glue) for strength.

traditionally this glue would only be a single component of a handle system involving mekugi, seppa, fuchi, rawhide wrapping, and sometimes silk cord and a kashira to create a strong and durable handle for tanto.

i was surprised by the results, it performed far better than i thought it would, and i can see how just a couple more components would really multiply the strength in critical areas...great system, those nihonto!

read it here: islandblacksmith.ca/2014/03/sokui-rice-paste-glue-strength-testing/
 
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The core of the handle is traditionally honoki (朴の木, hou wood, Japanese Bigleaf Magnolia, Magnolia Obavata), and my favorite local island stand-in is Yellow Cedar as it is a similar density clear, straight grained wood that carves nicely and provides a comparable cushioning and strength for tsuka and shirasaya.

The nakago mune should be centered in the block of wood but the nakago-ha (bottom edge of the tang) should be fully seated in the omote half of the wood, slightly to one side. The purpose of this is to keep the tang from placing strain on the glue joint, placing it fully against wood.

kaiken-kotanto-83.jpg

This block was nicely straight grained and split very well with an oversized cleaver acting as miniature froe. Splitting the rough block ensures the grain is fully aligned with the blade.

kaiken-kotanto-84.jpg

It is common to saw the tsuka in half and then plane it flat, but for this small piece I was able to split it in half as well. This will give the glue a larger surface area for gripping.

kaiken-kotanto-85.jpg

Beginning to carve the omote side. The ura side is not carved until after this side is close to finished dimensions.

kaiken-kotanto-86.jpg

For the final fittings, the tang is wiped with oil so that it will show up uneven points of contact with the wood. Scraping with curved kiridashi is a technique for refining and smoothing the inside.

more info here: islandblacksmith.ca/process/carving-tsuka-handle/


...next, time to make rice glue!
 
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Sokui is a simple wood glue made from rice that is traditionally used for joining wood from tsuka to sliding panel shoji. The all natural glue contains nothing but delicious Japanese rice and a little bit of extra water. One of the reasons rice glue was originally chosen for making tsuka is that it is non acidic, does not degrade either the steel or the wood over time, and does not retain moisture. Another is that, while quite strong, it is not stronger than the wood itself. This allows a scabbard or handle to be split open for cleaning or repair without damaging the wood.

A bite of cooked rice is placed on a board and worked with a bamboo or wooden wedge to break all the grains into pulp. As the rice is squeezed under the wedge it becomes like sticky dough. Once there are no pieces left, a few drops of water is worked in to bring the glue to the desired consistency. It should not be runny but should be thin enough to spread evenly on the parts to be joined.

making-sokui-rice-paste-glue-1.jpg

Cooked Japanese short grain rice, the tastier the better. More than a small bite's worth will take a long time to mix and produce far too much glue...unless you are making shoji!

making-sokui-rice-paste-glue-2.jpg

Mashing it together helps break up the grains, pulling it out under the wedge in small amounts will help crush the pieces into paste.

making-sokui-rice-paste-glue-3.jpg

Once there are no pieces left at all, it is time to add a small amount of water to thin it down a bit.

making-sokui-rice-paste-glue-4.jpg

Getting there...the final consistency should be as thick as possible while still easy to spread in a thin layer. Too much water will weaken the joint and increase the drying time, too little makes it hard to spread thinly and evenly.

next, time to spread it on and glue it up...will sort the pics from that step soon.
 
Hello!

PS: do you actually happen to have some shots on your technique preparing the handle and blade for the mekugi ana and the shaping and fitting of the mekugi? I think this would be really cool to see (if you allow me to be blunt enough to voice a wish here... ;) ). Thank you again for this great showpiece!

Best regards,
Alex
 
Great WIP Thread! Thanks for taking the time to show how much is involved in this knife build
 
@A.l.e.x. coming soon, it will all be here eventually...stay tuned!

@stabber thanks, its hard to explain in any other format so it's nice to be able to do a full walk through in photos...
 
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