WIP Update, NEW PROGRESS!!

Looks pretty good. I think you've got a real good start on it. Don't be in such a hurry to walk the grind line up unless you want that semi-convex action. Nothing wrong with that if you do just hit it lightly with a slack belt if that is the grind you are after. If not and you want it flat but it is taking long use a lower grit if possible or take breaks to make it less laborous. Don't worry about the grind line too much. You look to have a good feel for it which helps but the grind line will even out more easily as the flatness of the bevels and thickness of the edge are more consistent. Not sure if that makes sense.... but just do more passes without walking the grind up to get it more flat.
 
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Murdok72605 said:
Looks pretty good. I think you've got a real good start on it. Don't be in such a hurry to walk the grind line up unless you want that semi-convex action. Nothing wrong with that if you do just hit it lightly with a slack belt if that is the grind you are after. If not and you want it flat but it is taking long use a lower grit if possible or take breaks to make it less laborous. Don't worry about the grind line too much. You look to have a good feel for it which helps but the grind line will even out more easily as the flatness of the bevels and thickness of the edge are more consistent. Not sure if that makes sense.... but just do more passes without walking the grind up to get it more flat.
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Yes, that does make sense. A lot of sense as a matter of fact. I was just starting to come that realization myself. I'll be working on this one this afternoon and will see how it progresses. I know a bit of a convex grind isn't a bad thing, but my goal is for it to be flat so I'll try your suggestions.

Thanks!
 
james terrio said:
When I want a full distal taper, I do that right after profiling. With the blade vertical, point up, on the flat platen. Setting bevels and then setting taper will just erase a good portion of the bevel you worked so hard to grind. Be sure to scribe your edge thickness, both on the actual edge and the spine. That'll give you a reference point to help keep things even throughout the process. Lately I've begun to set my plunges with a chainsaw file and file-guide, then proceed about as you are. Again, it provides a reference point.

I find it helpful to do each step to each side of the knife in turn, when walking the bevel up the width of the blade. The "wavies" will only go away with a light touch and a steady hand. Let the speed of the machine do the work, let your hands do the finesse.

I grind bevels edge up, no guard. Feel is very important but personally, I need to see what I'm doing. Mind you, I also lean across/behind the belt so I see the bevel as it comes across the belt, not the side I'm not working on. I'm sure I look totally retarded doing this but it helps me keep things straight and even.
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Thanks James, excellent advice. I'll try to stick to it:thumbup:
 
There is not enough time in the day! I need another 12 hours at least each day to do all the stuff I'd like to do. If this hobby keeps me busy, I'm going to have to hire a gardener because the lawns will never get mowed!!:D

Don't worry, I haven't abandoned my mini santoku, but I've really slowed down my grinding to take my time and make sure it's right. I can be an ansty guy though, and the slow grinding made me want to run around the shop and do other things to keep me active, so I started finishing up the profiling and some early handle work for my second knife, a nice little EDC just under seven inches long in ATS-34. Also in the pics is the quick setup I put together for drilling handle holes with my drill press to keep everything lined up and consistent.

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Ok, I think I've finally gotten the bevel done!! Things didn't go perfectly but I was expecting that the first time out. There is a bunch more sanding to do and some detail work on the profile here and there, but I'm pretty happy with the way things are shaping up. I did some rounding on the spine reworked the handle shape a bit.

What do you guys think? Is this about ready for heat treat? If so, any suggestions as to who to look into for my first time? Does it need more sanding BEFORE it goes off to ht? I just want to make sure I proceed correctly from here......

Thanks!
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What kind of steel is it? Also I would take some 180grit paper and remove most of those deep vertical scratches,they may cause stess riser cracks.
Stan
 
Looking good jmac!!! I'm finishing up a kitchen knife too only I've put this one off for half a year :p As Stan said, you should hit that with some 120 or 150 grit sandpaper to get those scratches out which could send your blade down south during the heat treat. I would take it to 400 grit before HT because its a lot easier to sand annealed steel than hardened steel. As if hand sanding wasn't annoying enough :rolleyes: Other than that, keep on doing what you're doing, your work will only get better!
 
Thanks a lot for the encouragement guys!

Richard, edge is a hair smaller than 1/32 of an inch.

SBuzek, it's ATS-34 and I'll definitely make sure to get those vertical belt scratches out before HT, the last think I want is cracks!!:eek:

BChou, I wasn't sure how far to go before HT, but 400 sounds good:thumbup:

I'll keep you guys updated.......

Thanks for the help, no heat treat recommendations???
 
With ats-34 you can go to about 95% finished with and edge about .020 thick with no problems.The more you do now the easier the finish after H/T.I take mine to 400 grit with no scratches left before H/T.
On doing the heat treat do you have a kiln,if not send it out,Texas knifemakers or Peters H/T in Pa.or find some one local to do it.
Stan
 
SBuzek said:
With ats-34 you can go to about 95% finished with and edge about .020 thick with no problems.The more you do now the easier the finish after H/T.I take mine to 400 grit with no scratches left before H/T.
On doing the heat treat do you have a kiln,if not send it out,Texas knifemakers or Peters H/T in Pa.or find some one local to do it.
Stan
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Thanks for the info on finishing prior to HT! I don't have a kiln yet, so I'll be sending it out. I've bought quite a few customs over the years that were advertised as being treated by Peters in PA, so I'll probably get in touch with them. I have a couple more blades in the works and would like to get a whole batch ready before sending to HT to save on shipping and what not, but I'm kind of anxious so maybe I'll send out this first one solo so I can at least get one knife completed.
 
Wow! These vertical scratches are tougher than I thought. I've tried some jflex belts to gently grind them out which helped a bit, and a ton of hand sanding.........maybe I just need to keep going but they don't seem to be wearing down at all. I'm sanding against the scratches, should I be sanding with them instead?
 
Sand from ricasso to tip,remove all scratches with 180 grit then move up.You think their tough now just think if you had waited till after H/T.
Stan
 
SBuzek said:
Sand from ricasso to tip,remove all scratches with 180 grit then move up.You think their tough now just think if you had waited till after H/T.
Stan
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LOL, how true! I went back to the grinder with a 220 Norzon belt to even things out and it worked pretty well. Went back to sandpaper and the verticals are starting to disappear. Takes a little elbow grease, but I'm making good progress.

Thanks!!!
 
Well, my first knife work in progress has turned into my first three knives work in progress!!:o

I am going to be sending out for heat treating so I wanted to at least have a few knives profiled, ground, and ready to go in order to save on some shipping. So now, instead of just my small kitchen knife, I'm getting close to having a small 7 inch EDC and a really small 2 finger wharny ready as well. They are in various states of completion at the moment, but sanding is going well, then I'll do some final profiling, and off they'll go. Finishing and handles after that and we'll see what kind of end result I can come up with..........

Thanks for all the help along the way:thumbup:
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Murdok72605 said:
Looking good! Keep updating this thread.
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Thanks a bunch, Murdok:thumbup: The encouragement here on the forum means tons!! I wish the picture of the little two finger wharncliff was better. I actually think that's going to be my favorite of the three:D It was definitely the most fun to make so far. No worries, I'll get more pics up in bit when it's looking even better. It still needs some work.
 
jonnymac
Might want to drill a few weight reducing holes in the large blade to keep it from being handle heavy once scales are attached.
Keep it up,your on a roll.
Stan
 
SBuzek said:
jonnymac
Might want to drill a few weight reducing holes in the large blade to keep it from being handle heavy once scales are attached.
Keep it up,your on a roll.
Stan
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Great idea, I'll definitely do that before I send it off to HT. Thanks:thumbup:

richard j said:
looking good jonnymac, i really like the looks of that small knife :D
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I thought you might like the blade shape on that one, Richard!;)
 
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