Work Sharp Knife Sharpener

Question for those that already have one-
How many belts are included with a new model?
Some ad's I have read 1 of each, other ad's I have read 2 of each,
80, 220 & 6,000 grit.
Also, anyone know if you can just buy a supply of 6,000 grit belts or similar? (like 1,000, 2,000, 3,000 grit, etc?
 
cramsey3006 said:
It comes with 2 each. 80, 220, 6000.

http://micro-surface.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=272_7_228_262&products_id=91

This is where we did our group buy, I believe. Ben would have to verify that though.
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That's the place. Although I don't know from where they source their 6000 belts. They are very similar to the MicroMesh MX belts, but MicroMesh only makes the MX up to 1200 grit. Unless they are the "Regular" series which in hindsight I should have ordered at least one of.
 
Do the belts seem to "last" a while?
I know that is very subjective..., maybe I should phrase it,
Do the belts seem to be high quality?
Thanks everyone...,
Just the excitement of a new "toy"..., I don't know if anyone would understand..., I mean, that is not on the forum, LOL!!
Makes me feel like a kid, "patiently" waiting for "santa" on the morning of the 25th:)
 
waynejitsu said:
Do the belts seem to "last" a while?
I know that is very subjective..., maybe I should phrase it,
Do the belts seem to be high quality?
Thanks everyone...,
Just the excitement of a new "toy"..., I don't know if anyone would understand..., I mean, that is not on the forum, LOL!!
Makes me feel like a kid, "patiently" waiting for "santa" on the morning of the 25th:)
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Lots of good info in this thread.

rpttrsn said:
.....

Since I was evaluating this for the company I sent them a e-mail requesting any advice. To my surprise they responded the same day. Imagine that! The same day. Here is their answer as to what might have happened.

Thank you so much for the update Ron!

There are three conditions that lead to cutting the belts (though it is most common on the 6000 grit belt):

1. Leaving the tool / belt running while positioning the knife in the guide.

a. Solution: Always place the blade first, then power the tool and pull the blade through the guide.

2. Not keeping the blade against the out edge of the guide can leverage the cutting edge into the belt.

a. Solution: While placing the blade in the guide, ensure it is against the outer edge before powering up the tool.

3. When using the outdoor knife guide, if you leave the tool running and make a lazy pass to the left side of the guide it is easy to nick the belt (which cuts it of course).

a. Be careful with the knife edge when crossing from one side to the other on the outdoor knife guide



If one of your belt cutting conditions was outside of this Ron, please let me know. Belt failures are not this common in our experience.



Our test lab ran extensive tests on belt life. Our finding where about 50 knives sharpened per set of belts (2 each belts out of the box = 100 knives).

That said you are correct in your assessment of the variables: blade thickness, hardness, damage, material needed to be removed to restore a good edge, etc, etc.

Also factor in when you first sharpen a knife to shape the convex grind versus the quick re-honing of the same blade with the convex geometry already established.

This is a very hard thing to quantify due to the host of variables - we are NOT being purposely vague on this. We have spent weeks (literally) in the lab trying to determine this and struggle to pin it down due to the variables at play. Not to mention that this is based on knife sharpening and does not account for tool sharpening applications or the grinding of various materials.



-Kyle



Kyle M. Crawford



Product Manager

DAREX LLC

210 E. Hersey St.

Ashland, Ore. 97520

Tel: 800-597-6170
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I am more than satisfied with belt life. Even the worn belts work very well at touching up a dull, but not damaged edge. I've got a 220 that's got at least 60 blades on it, and I still use it when I need a more than the 6000 offers, but not enough to break out a new belt.

I also use a belt cleaner on the belts, just like I do on my HF 1x30. It helps them cut better just like on the 1x30.
 
zer0sanity said:
Lots of good info in this thread.
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Yeah, I read that earlier and also have it saved. I was wanting "personal experience" from people that have been using it (like the post right above this one) more than from a manufacturer, dealer, etc.
As you know, a LOT of times what real world experience is with actual users is, compared to what is "advertised" can be a LOT of difference, but, thanks for the post, it is worth reading again (as well as when I finally get mine), I will want to read it again...
Thanks all!!!
 
I love the thing. Seriously, show me another sharpener that can do what the WS does, in a package as compact as it is, and as fast as it is. It's only downfall is the fact that it's a corded tool. If it was cordless and rechargeable with lithium power, it would be THE perfect sharpener.

The Edge Pro and Wicked Edge will give you more precise edges with a wider variety of angles, but by the time you've got one of those set up, I've already taken a dull knife (maybe 2 or 3!) and given it a hair popping, durable, convex edge.

I'm debating getting another and stashing it and a bunch of belts away just so it's there in the future.
 
waynejitsu said:
Yeah, I read that earlier and also have it saved. I was wanting "personal experience" from people that have been using it (like the post right above this one) more than from a manufacturer, dealer, etc.
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It is a good sharpener - I know of no other belt sander I can use resting on my lap while I am at the computer watching a TV program. The sanding belts are good and last well - they give you 2 of each of 3 grits when you buy the tool then the same again when you send in the warranty card.

My only complaint is the guide - I much prefer sharpening without it. IMO the guard sucks and even if I can do a better job with the guard (and I doubt that) then without it I can learn more and improve further by using the tool freehand.

This is a great convex sharpener and once you have the knife edge good and sharp you don't even need this tool - you can maintain the edge with a strop. Setting the edge initially or repairing a damaged edge is quicker & easier with this power tool - I like quicker & easier.
 
I only use the guide for the first sharpening to set my inital edge , and I always use the 20 degree guide. After that, I don't use it. Just the way I do it.
 
cramsey3006 said:
I love the thing. Seriously, show me another sharpener that can do what the WS does, in a package as compact as it is, and as fast as it is. It's only downfall is the fact that it's a corded tool. If it was cordless and rechargeable with lithium power, it would be THE perfect sharpener.

The Edge Pro and Wicked Edge will give you more precise edges with a wider variety of angles, but by the time you've got one of those set up, I've already taken a dull knife (maybe 2 or 3!) and given it a hair popping, durable, convex edge.

I'm debating getting another and stashing it and a bunch of belts away just so it's there in the future.
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Totally agree.

Also, FWIW, this tool is excellent if you are into modifying knives, too. What sort of mods? Well, if you want to put a crown on the spine of your blades, this tool does that very nicely. If you want to polish the liners in a folder, it makes it a breeze. If you want to recontour a pesky, sharp thumbstud, it's a piece of cake. If you want to really reshape a blade, it'll git 'er done. If you want to polish something, like aluminum bolsters that have gotten a bit scratched up, no prob. Catch my drift?
 
I was thinking of getting this to create and maintain convex edges, but I was wondering if anything else was required for use. Mainly lubrication as I swear one of my blades got discolored just from using it on the slotted paper wheel for 15 seconds.

Also, would anyone ever take an expensive knife like the Lionsteel SR-1(comes with a convex edge) on this?
 
I got mine yesterday with the idea that it might be a fairly decent yet fast mobile convex sharpener when it is not practical to lug my 1x30, which is most all the time. I have a field kit that includes wet/dry sandpaper and loaded leather strop that works great for convexing but I was after raw speed here. I had concerns going in about the belt speed, the belt abrasives and how well this southpaw could adapt to using it.

I started out with a dull beater paring knife. I started out with the P220 Red belt and although I anticipated that I would never use the blade guide being proficient at freehanding on the 1x30 I figured I would try it out. After 3 passes I had a nice even burr developed across the edge using the 40 degree inclusive guide. Moving along to the 6000 Purple belt it did a pretty good job of removing the scratch marks from the Red belt after about 7 passes. The beater was now hair popping sharp. Another couple of knives later without the guides including a stubborn ZDP-189 blade I'm thinking this little thing is not bad at all.

The design appears more awkward to use than it is in actual use. I had no problem operating it with my southpaw ways and although I wanted more grit progressions between the 220 and the 6000 belts it did get the job done without burning up the blade. I have ordered a bunch of the MX series Micro-Mesh belts to provide me my desired progression and have plans like others to load my first worn out 6000 belt with CrO. I not sure there is sufficient clearance around the belt pulleys and guides to allow for a leather belt from any of the stock that I have and I don't have a splitter so that idea is off the table for now.

I'm not crazy about the guides as they limit contact with the entire edge of many knives but overall nice job Work Sharp.
 
Noctis3880 said:
I was thinking of getting this to create and maintain convex edges, but I was wondering if anything else was required for use. Mainly lubrication as I swear one of my blades got discolored just from using it on the slotted paper wheel for 15 seconds.

Also, would anyone ever take an expensive knife like the Lionsteel SR-1(comes with a convex edge) on this?
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Heat hasn't been an issue, except for when doing a major regrind and then it is just a matter of going on to something else while the blade cools down. I check the blade and give the sharpening of a blade a rest once it gets all the way up to 'quite warm'. I don't like to let the steel get to the point where it is actually hot.

I would happily polish the edge of an expensive blade with a fine grit belt but I'd want to be pretty confident before using a course belt on and expensive blade.
 
Well, I ordered one of these from Woodcraft though they say they won't start shipping until after 12/10/10. The Micro-Mesh belts were surprisingly cheap(shipping aside) at about 50 cents per belt. Seems like it might be a similar value to the Paper wheels, though I would expect prettier looking edges for a newbie. I think I'll start off using this one on my ZT 0350CB and 0301 to practice with before moving on to more expensive knives.
 
This might sound a little psychotic, but I was wondering if I could sharpen my katana with this? My attempts to do it on my Paper Wheels didn't turn out well and actually dulled the blade.
 
Ben B said:
Just to follow up on the group buy for the belts, it is over and they've been shipped out. Thanks to those that participated. It will take some time for us to evaluate the different grits but hopefully people will check back in with comments.
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Thanks Ben for ordering them. They came a few days ago and are great. Really like the 240 grit for shaping and reporfiling. Havn't really used many of the others yet, but I'm sure they'll be fine.
 
Noctis3880 said:
This might sound a little psychotic, but I was wondering if I could sharpen my katana with this? My attempts to do it on my Paper Wheels didn't turn out well and actually dulled the blade.
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I thought about the same thing (my wife is getting the sharpener for me for Christmas)
Just taking into consideration "other" sharpeners, I am expecting the spine to be to thick to fit into a guide, however, if you can free hand it, I don't see why not.
 
waynejitsu said:
I thought about the same thing (my wife is getting the sharpener for me for Christmas)
Just taking into consideration "other" sharpeners, I am expecting the spine to be to thick to fit into a guide, however, if you can free hand it, I don't see why not.
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Free handing is the way to go. Just practice on other knives first to get the hang of it. After awhile, it'll be a piece of cake (at least for me, YMMV).
 
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