Yes, at times. It's a feel thing, IMHO. If the full thickness/width of the belt is going to create problems, the edge of the belt is the way to go, IMHO. BTW, the 12" belts are pretty flexible.
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Work Sharp Knife Sharpener
- Thread starter ricklee4570
- Start date
Yes, at times. It's a feel thing, IMHO. If the full thickness/width of the belt is going to create problems, the edge of the belt is the way to go, IMHO. BTW, the 12" belts are pretty flexible.
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- Nov 6, 2001
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The main thing I don't like about it is the fact that you are sharpening edge leading on one side and edge following on the other. ie. belt spins into the edge on one side and away from the edge on the other.
It does not seem to be a problem in practice though, and it is way better than carbide pull through sharpeners for the novice.
It does not seem to be a problem in practice though, and it is way better than carbide pull through sharpeners for the novice.
I usually just turn the knife around so the belt is always traveling downward against the blade. Just takes a bit of practice to get reasonably good at it.
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- Apr 3, 2010
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- 955
Ok my opinion of the worksharp has lessened. Its a sharpener I would never stick a good knife in. I did about 4 knivies through it and it just doesnt do a great job. Passable but nothing stellar. There is also an issue I have with belt travel, think about it. One side of the guide the belt is traveling into the blade the other side the belt is traveling away from it, this can and typically will cause burrs. So you have to do your finishing pass on the guide side that had the belt direction traveling into the blade. Also, if you have any hesitation while using the coarsest grit you can kiss a nice straight blade good bye, for you will have valleys. I see this more typically when you start for if you dont pull it through you will wear down a greater amount of the blade in one area then another. In the end I gave this thing 30-days and just didnt like it nor do I trust it for a highend knife. Also, marring can and typically will occur. I had my bowie that is black have lines from the guide in it. More to come but I am not overally nuts about this sharpener. Initial I was but after a fair amount of use I am not so crazy about it.
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- Nov 5, 2009
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- 1,711
soapboxpreacher, have you tried using the sharpener without the guides? It sounds like you are only using it with the guides, in my limited experience (so far) with the sharpener it is a LOT better when used freehand. I also prefer to only use the side where the belt is travelling down - I have not had any more burr formation in that direction than the other way.
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- Aug 2, 2010
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I've been using mine freehand without the guides and I like it better that way, I think. I feel that I can control the amount of pressure being put on the belt better without the guides.
The WS is like any other powered sharpener. You have to let IT do the work. Too much pressure is going to work against you. You'll never be able to work up a burr and you'll never be able to get a shaving edge. You will ruin blades with too much pressure, whether it's with a WS, a 1x30/1x42, or paper wheels. You'll either grind away too much blade or you'll overheat the edge and make it lose it's temper.
Use the 220 belt to set the bevel edge and the 6000 to strop it. It'll work, plain and simple.
There is NO reason to use the 80 belt on a knife unless you have heavy edge damage or you are using the tool to set the intial bevel of the edge on a blade that has NO real edge bevel.
When you need to re-sharpen, a couple of passes on the 220 and few passes on the 6000 will get it done. You don't even need to use the 220 (in my experience) unless the edge is really degraded. When my knife stops shaving hair, I usually go with 3-5 LIGHT passes on the 6000 to restore it to shaving sharp.
If you're ruining blades with the WS, you're either not paying attention to what you're doing or you are using too much pressure. Really, a light hand is key to making any power sharpener work properly and getting good results.
If you can't sharpen a knife on the WS, then you can't sharpen on a knife on any belt sander/grinder. I've got a HF 1x30 and there is NO comparison to ease of use and the results I get. The WS wins hands down.
When I first got the unit, I followed the directions completely and got extremely sharp knives very quickly. After having and using it for some time, I've refined my technique to get better results.
I've used the tool on everything from $2 kitchen knives to a couple of higher end knives in the $150-$200 range, and everything else in the middle.
I've used the tool on: 420J2, 420HC (Buck), 440A, 440C, AUS6, AUS8, 12c27, 13c26, D2, 1095, 1.4116 (Krupp), hacksaw steel blades, sawzall steel blades, sawmill steel blades, file steel blades, with superb results on all of them.
I still have several other sharpeners: crock sticks, pull through carbide and ceramic, diamond stones/plates, pull-through steels, Lansky, Chef's Choice Pronto Manual (still one of my FAVORITE for thin blades). I like them all and use them all.
Personally, I'd much rather spend a lot of time making knives DULL than a lot of time making knives sharp. Making them dull is the fun part of using knives!
By the time someone sets up their Edge Pro, Lansky, Sharpmaker to get started, I've sharpened several knives on my WS, even if they were extremely dull.
The WS is NOT the be all and end all of knife sharpening. No sharpener is, they all have pro's and con's. You have to decide what kind of compromise you want.
The tool is compact, easy to use, high quality, fast, with excellent and easily repeatable results. It takes up much less space than any other belt or grinder type tool, and not much more space, if any more, than a good tri-stone set would.
The only negatives, IMO, is that you have to plug to tool in to use it, and the belts are not readily available. By that I mean you can't go to the local hardware store and get the belts. If they'd make a cordless lithium batttery version of it, I'd be in sharpening heaven.
In other words, you'd have to pry the tool from my cold, dead hands to get me to give it up. :thumbup:
The WS is like any other powered sharpener. You have to let IT do the work. Too much pressure is going to work against you. You'll never be able to work up a burr and you'll never be able to get a shaving edge. You will ruin blades with too much pressure, whether it's with a WS, a 1x30/1x42, or paper wheels. You'll either grind away too much blade or you'll overheat the edge and make it lose it's temper.
Use the 220 belt to set the bevel edge and the 6000 to strop it. It'll work, plain and simple.
There is NO reason to use the 80 belt on a knife unless you have heavy edge damage or you are using the tool to set the intial bevel of the edge on a blade that has NO real edge bevel.
When you need to re-sharpen, a couple of passes on the 220 and few passes on the 6000 will get it done. You don't even need to use the 220 (in my experience) unless the edge is really degraded. When my knife stops shaving hair, I usually go with 3-5 LIGHT passes on the 6000 to restore it to shaving sharp.
If you're ruining blades with the WS, you're either not paying attention to what you're doing or you are using too much pressure. Really, a light hand is key to making any power sharpener work properly and getting good results.
If you can't sharpen a knife on the WS, then you can't sharpen on a knife on any belt sander/grinder. I've got a HF 1x30 and there is NO comparison to ease of use and the results I get. The WS wins hands down.
When I first got the unit, I followed the directions completely and got extremely sharp knives very quickly. After having and using it for some time, I've refined my technique to get better results.
I've used the tool on everything from $2 kitchen knives to a couple of higher end knives in the $150-$200 range, and everything else in the middle.
I've used the tool on: 420J2, 420HC (Buck), 440A, 440C, AUS6, AUS8, 12c27, 13c26, D2, 1095, 1.4116 (Krupp), hacksaw steel blades, sawzall steel blades, sawmill steel blades, file steel blades, with superb results on all of them.
I still have several other sharpeners: crock sticks, pull through carbide and ceramic, diamond stones/plates, pull-through steels, Lansky, Chef's Choice Pronto Manual (still one of my FAVORITE for thin blades). I like them all and use them all.
Personally, I'd much rather spend a lot of time making knives DULL than a lot of time making knives sharp. Making them dull is the fun part of using knives!
By the time someone sets up their Edge Pro, Lansky, Sharpmaker to get started, I've sharpened several knives on my WS, even if they were extremely dull.
The WS is NOT the be all and end all of knife sharpening. No sharpener is, they all have pro's and con's. You have to decide what kind of compromise you want.
The tool is compact, easy to use, high quality, fast, with excellent and easily repeatable results. It takes up much less space than any other belt or grinder type tool, and not much more space, if any more, than a good tri-stone set would.
The only negatives, IMO, is that you have to plug to tool in to use it, and the belts are not readily available. By that I mean you can't go to the local hardware store and get the belts. If they'd make a cordless lithium batttery version of it, I'd be in sharpening heaven.
In other words, you'd have to pry the tool from my cold, dead hands to get me to give it up. :thumbup:
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2006
- Messages
- 413
I've been a little busy and I thought it would be good to let the WorkSharp debate settle down a little. Back to the belt group buy... Let's leave the sharpener debate off to the side and people that want to try out a wider range of belts feel free to chime in. It might be worth debating the choice of grits here and then take the details off to PMs. I'd be OK with the larger purchase described below.
I'd also be OK with the original suggestion that I made or a variation. It may also change the $$ amount a little depending on how many people want in but not by more than a buck or two. Thoughts?
I'd also be OK with the original suggestion that I made or a variation. It may also change the $$ amount a little depending on how many people want in but not by more than a buck or two. Thoughts?
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2006
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- 1,347
I believe that the market this sharpener was intended for was the user who is a novice at sharpening. Many people who do not try to achieve that extra sharp edge would not fully appreciate the differences in grits. IMO
Many here on the forum have been sharpening their own knives for years. A broad assortment of belts for those who added this tool to their own group of sharpeners would help bring this product to another level in sharpening.
We have asked for leather belts and the company has been trying to find a supplier ( I think they have tried about 4 so far ) to make one to their standards.
When putting out a new product, in todays market, baby steps would seem like a smart move. I would want to see if sales continue at a pace that would warrant investing in additional accessories. With their sales doing so well I do hope that they expand their belt selection.
Many here on the forum have been sharpening their own knives for years. A broad assortment of belts for those who added this tool to their own group of sharpeners would help bring this product to another level in sharpening.
We have asked for leather belts and the company has been trying to find a supplier ( I think they have tried about 4 so far ) to make one to their standards.
When putting out a new product, in todays market, baby steps would seem like a smart move. I would want to see if sales continue at a pace that would warrant investing in additional accessories. With their sales doing so well I do hope that they expand their belt selection.
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- Aug 2, 2010
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- 2,129
I'm good for either deal. I was about to go ahead and order some myself, since it had kind of dropped off.....
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2006
- Messages
- 413
Two points to add here... One is that most sharpening devices are arguably aimed at "novice" sharpeners (any device with guides?) but it hasn't kept experienced sharpeners from co-opting them. And along those same lines it is fortunate that there are third-party manufacturers of belts so we might try out a wider selection of grits. I may just be reinforcing what you were saying.
I don't feel like this sharpener is necessarily right for a novice, at least using the 220 grit belt since it removes metal too fast and you cant see enough with the guide on. But with the guide off, it is just a small belt grinder. The same thing that most knifemakers use to set the bevel and sharpen their knives. With the right belt assortment, it may be a very good tool for those of us that like to use the knives that we collect.
To make this easier for the group belt buy, lets say 2 each MX 240, 320, 400, 600, 800, and 1200 and AO2400, 4000, and 12,000. I'll cap it at $12 shipped if we have less than 10 takers. If we get more I can send a little $$ in the envelope. If I have to subsidize a little, it will still be less than me making an individual order. PM me for details. I can plan on putting in the order on Monday morning.
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- Aug 2, 2010
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- 2,129
Ok for those who are interested..........
I have a really worn 6000 grit belt. It still worked for touching up an very sharp (barely shaving) edge back to hair popping, but that was about it.
I took a very tiny bit of green compound from Harbor Freight and put some on the belt last night.
Today, I used it to hone the blade on my Kabar Potbelly after cutting through some trees with it today. It wasn't shaving sharp at all, it did have a good working edge when I was through. It would still slice printer paper with a draw cut, so it wasn't DULL, but it wasn't a razor either.
5 light passes on each side of the blade had that thing HAIR POPPING to a new degree of popping. Maybe the hairs on my arm were just jumping off to avoid getting cut, I don't know, but it was the smoothest shave I've ever had from a 1/4" blade. The knife push cuts newspaper with almost no effort now.
So, if you don't overdo the compound, I don't see that there would be any issues with using it on a belt.
I have a really worn 6000 grit belt. It still worked for touching up an very sharp (barely shaving) edge back to hair popping, but that was about it.
I took a very tiny bit of green compound from Harbor Freight and put some on the belt last night.
Today, I used it to hone the blade on my Kabar Potbelly after cutting through some trees with it today. It wasn't shaving sharp at all, it did have a good working edge when I was through. It would still slice printer paper with a draw cut, so it wasn't DULL, but it wasn't a razor either.
5 light passes on each side of the blade had that thing HAIR POPPING to a new degree of popping. Maybe the hairs on my arm were just jumping off to avoid getting cut, I don't know, but it was the smoothest shave I've ever had from a 1/4" blade. The knife push cuts newspaper with almost no effort now.
So, if you don't overdo the compound, I don't see that there would be any issues with using it on a belt.
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- Oct 1, 2002
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- 1,167
I am in for a set or maybe 2 of the belts.
When will it happen?
When will it happen?
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- Aug 2, 2010
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- 2,129
Uh, it's already happened.
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- Oct 1, 2002
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- 1,167
Ben B- email sent,
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- Oct 16, 2006
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- 32
Interesting. I think I just found what I want for Christmas.
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- Aug 2, 2010
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Hopefully I will give an update soon. Right now I'm having a problem finding dull knives in my house.
Yes, I like it that much.
Yes, I like it that much.
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2002
- Messages
- 1,167
Thanks Ben for all your help and for getting a set of belts for me, Very Much Appreciated
Anyone know how accurate the guide is? Is it an actual 20 and 25 degree or just something close?
I will be getting one for Christmas
Anyone know how accurate the guide is? Is it an actual 20 and 25 degree or just something close?
I will be getting one for Christmas