Would like some opinions on this one

Z

zealot

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Jun 17, 2006
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I just drew this one up, and like it quite a bit. But I thought I'd run it past the experts to see what you all had to say. thanks


 
I personally like it when the handle gets wider toward the butt. I would leave the bottom but add a little to the top to take a little out of the curve of the handle, and give a little flare to the handle. The lines on the blade need to work out the flat spots, but I'm sure that's just in the drawing, and wont end up in the knife.

Just my take on it. To each there own.
 
I agree with Cody, I would remove the hump in the handle and make it wider near the butt. I like the shape of the blade... A modified warncliff. I would also move the pins in a bit, as they look a bit close to the edge. Either way, nice start
 
ok, I put a little more weight in the handle. Does it kind of look like the handle is too long? Also, would 1/8'' be thick enough or should I go thicker thanks for your help.
 
I like it. I think the proportions look good. I would probably go without the Spanish notch.
 
I believe I figured 4 5/8" was a good length for a handle. Cut it out of some card board or thin wood and see hoe it suits you. Off the paper stuff often gives lots of good answers and saves destroying a lot of material and work. Frank
 
Like Frank said. Cut it out and see how it feels. Definatly the lines on the updated one looks better- great changes IMO.
 
thanks everybody. I will cut it out and see how it fits. you guys are a great help and i appreciate it
 
I was afraid someone might ask that! lol I don't know! it's bigger than I would carry. I originally set out to create an edc fixed blade for myself and this was kind of what I had in mind but it ended up being too big, but I liked it. I just drew up a smaller, closer to what I intended version here..

 
On a pattern like this with some space between the edge and the handle, I've been running the edge all the way back, and tapering in the plunge so there is still a wide spot there for comfort. It adds anywhere from .125"-.5" in usable edge length, allows you to follow through when slicing and using a pinch grip, and IMO looks nicer in a minimalist kind of way. I usually add a small radius to the back corner to move the edge slightly forward for safety.

I've done the plunge style you show, but on narrower knives without as much safe margin for the index finger. I also typically don't use the notch, I find that they get caught sometimes, and can interrupt the visual flow.
 
I think I may like the smaller one better but I'd lengthen the handle a bit. Maybe halfway between the two versions. Also, I like the angularity of the design. The only place you have a curve is the leading edge of the handle scales. Sketch up a version that exchanges the curved line for an angled one that is similar to what you have going on at the butt end, perhaps with slightly less angle. It might make the theme a bit more cohesive. Then like the guys suggest, cut it out and see how it fits you. And I'd still get rid of that notch! ;)
 
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That crook on the spine of the long blade makes it look weird, like a box cutter, if the lines flowed a little better it would be a sound blade.
 
I like both basic shapes. 1 is more of a utility camp/kitchen knife and 2 is more of an EDC/hunter.

There are two major areas I think you need changes in:
First thing that the eye sees is that funny crook in the spine near the tip.....get rid of that. It serves no function, and is hard on the eyes. Make the spine curve to the tip evenly.

Second thing that the eye sees is the huge notch in the blade edge and a funny tit behind it. If you put the notch there for sharpening ease ( that is what they are for), then it only needs to be a small semicircle. 1/16" radius ( 1/8" wide) is plenty. The un-ground metal behind it needs to be at the height of the top of the notch, or higher. If it is on the same plane as the edge, it will interfere with sharpening the edge, and the back portion won't be properly sharpened. You will then try to sharpen the back as a separate area, and dish it out. The same problem arrears when a plunge is used on a slicer type blade. The thicker metal at the plunge interferes with the sharpening. I don't use plunges whenever I can get away from them. The perfect plunge, IMHO, is one that defines the ricasso, and runs right off the blade at the heel. This creates an edge to the heel, and a nice sharp plunge line at the ricasso.

Here is what I would do with your drawings:
1) On both, make the spine an even curve to the tip.
2) On both, make the radial curve from the bottom of the handle ( index finger rest) to the edge a more rounded curve ( like #1). Have the curve end at the current junction of the plunge and the Spanish notch. You can leave the notch the same size as drawn if you do this. This completely removes the tit behind the notch, but keeps a little area of unsharpened material ( the notch surface) to make the heel more finger friendly.

Try drawing those changes, and I think you will greatly like the improved look and feel.
 
HallHandmade said:
On a pattern like this with some space between the edge and the handle, I've been running the edge all the way back, and tapering in the plunge so there is still a wide spot there for comfort. It adds anywhere from .125"-.5" in usable edge length, allows you to follow through when slicing and using a pinch grip, and IMO looks nicer in a minimalist kind of way. I usually add a small radius to the back corner to move the edge slightly forward for safety.

I've done the plunge style you show, but on narrower knives without as much safe margin for the index finger. I also typically don't use the notch, I find that they get caught sometimes, and can interrupt the visual flow.
Click to expand...

HI, I'm not sure I follow what you're saying about the plunge area. Could you post a pic of an example maybe?> thx
 
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