Would like some opinions on this one

bladsmth said:
I like both basic shapes. 1 is more of a utility camp/kitchen knife and 2 is more of an EDC/hunter.

There are two major areas I think you need changes in:
First thing that the eye sees is that funny crook in the spine near the tip.....get rid of that. It serves no function, and is hard on the eyes. Make the spine curve to the tip evenly.

Second thing that the eye sees is the huge notch in the blade edge and a funny tit behind it. If you put the notch there for sharpening ease ( that is what they are for), then it only needs to be a small semicircle. 1/16" radius ( 1/8" wide) is plenty. The un-ground metal behind it needs to be at the height of the top of the notch, or higher. If it is on the same plane as the edge, it will interfere with sharpening the edge, and the back portion won't be properly sharpened. You will then try to sharpen the back as a separate area, and dish it out. The same problem arrears when a plunge is used on a slicer type blade. The thicker metal at the plunge interferes with the sharpening. I don't use plunges whenever I can get away from them. The perfect plunge, IMHO, is one that defines the ricasso, and runs right off the blade at the heel. This creates an edge to the heel, and a nice sharp plunge line at the ricasso.

Here is what I would do with your drawings:
1) On both, make the spine an even curve to the tip.
2) On both, make the radial curve from the bottom of the handle ( index finger rest) to the edge a more rounded curve ( like #1). Have the curve end at the current junction of the plunge and the Spanish notch. You can leave the notch the same size as drawn if you do this. This completely removes the tit behind the notch, but keeps a little area of unsharpened material ( the notch surface) to make the heel more finger friendly.

Try drawing those changes, and I think you will greatly like the improved look and feel.
Click to expand...

ok, I'll work on these next thanks
 
ok I smoothed out the top edge of the blade on the top one. on the bottom one I added more of a curve and ditched the notch on both. Am I getting closer?

 
Zealot,
The second patterns look fine for a draw out and I would go with those general shapes.

As Stacy noted, move the choil/notch forward so that it's not in the ricassio and make it smaller.

I suggest for drawing out your patterns that you get yourself a set of a drafting tool called "French curves". Any art supply store, E bay or Amazon will have them. They will give you nice graceful curves and you can do an inside radius if you want to add finger notches.

The handles are also definitely better on the second two. I like longer handles. 5-6" but I have big hands and make mostly culinary a few Hunters and EDC.

You will have to find your own sweet spot for length of handles on your Field/EDC knives. Thickness of handles counts a lot and when you make yours its better to be a little to thick than to thin in a handle of any knife that will be used for a longer duration.

As far as thickness of steel. 1/8" or 5/32" would be fine for these knives unless you want to make sharpened pry bars. I personally have seen things go a bit nuts in the last five years or so with thickness of steels with 1/4", 3/16" and even larger being used in smaller fixed & folder knives where it really doesn't add anything except maybe a Wow factor?

You are off to a good start.
Keep us posted on your progress.
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
As far as thickness of steel. 1/8" or 5/32" would be fine for these knives unless you want to make sharpened pry bars. I personally have seen things go a bit nuts in the last five years or so with thickness of steels with 1/4", 3/16" and even larger being used in smaller fixed & folder knives where it really doesn't add anything except maybe a Wow factor?
Click to expand...

I watched a video from Medford knives the other day. They use .270 D2 on some blade. They seem to be focused at the military market. The scale of the materials is almost comical and cartoon like.
 
thanks again for all the help guys.. I think I fixed the tits lol how does this look? I will go look for some french curves today, thanks Rino

 
Much better. I would also loose the angled butt. It serves no purpose, and will make a spot where the handle may chip. Make it a simple curve. As I always say, "Everyone likes a curvy butt."
 
PT Doc said:
I watched a video from Medford knives the other day. They use .270 D2 on some blade. They seem to be focused at the military market. The scale of the materials is almost comical and cartoon like.
Click to expand...

Yep! Great for opening man hole covers. I can possibly see some applications for thicker chopper knives but how did our soldiers accomplish anything with those flimsy knives in WWII, Korea and Vietnam?

Though I have never heard of or talked to a service man or woman that ever needed to chop a 2" x 4" in half?
 
Ok, I made a wood cut out and liked it so here's where I'm at now... I profiled and ground the bevel, but it went way higher than I intended as I was trying to even up each side. Should I just go for a full flat grind at this point?
I'm probably going to leave the angled butt, but will round the corners alittle more. What do you think ?


 
There is nothing wrong with a full flat grind. It looks fine the way it is. You might want to take a little of the drop out of the rear of the handle? You want a bit more finger clearance back there.

At the same time I encourage you to do your own thing! Many get too focused on doing what has already been done. If you don't have a few people asking why this or that? You are not innovating.
 
that it's good looking. maybe keep this the way it is and make another with a full flat grid.
 
Looks good. Keep going. I would spend some time smoothing out the curved area under the handle at the top of the curve. When you get rid of the remnants of your rough shape cutting aim for a graceful curve there tying in the nice curves you have going on before and behind that area. Your grind may have gone higher than you intended but it looks fine. Symmetry between both sides is more important than the height of the grind. Also, Laurence's advice is important. Don't be afraid to do something different if you have a strong reason for doing so. You will want to follow a lot of the advice you are given by more seasoned makers but if you feel strongly about an aspect of your design then defend it. As a maker you will have to find your own vision and sense of aesthetics.
 
PT Doc said:
that it's good looking. maybe keep this the way it is and make another with a full flat grid.
Click to expand...

thanks, ya I went ahead and did a full flat on it... Should have just left it like it was, it looked alot better. lol live n learn
 
i4Marc said:
Looks good. Keep going. I would spend some time smoothing out the curved area under the handle at the top of the curve. When you get rid of the remnants of your rough shape cutting aim for a graceful curve there tying in the nice curves you have going on before and behind that area. Your grind may have gone higher than you intended but it looks fine. Symmetry between both sides is more important than the height of the grind. Also, Laurence's advice is important. Don't be afraid to do something different if you have a strong reason for doing so. You will want to follow a lot of the advice you are given by more seasoned makers but if you feel strongly about an aspect of your design then defend it. As a maker you will have to find your own vision and sense of aesthetics.
Click to expand...

Thanks man. I'm not done smoothing it all out yet. That spot at the top of the curve is the hardest part to get to. as far as Laurences advice. I definitely agree. But at this point I don't even have a completed knife under my belt! lol I have made and ground 5 knives and they're all waiting for me to find somewhere that can ht them.
 
Is it comfortable to hold? That is more important than how it looks.
 
It could be better definitely. It actually works really well in most grips though. I'll probably make the next ones handle a little longer..
 
The bottom curve under the handle is a bit severe for my taste, but the rest looks great. I love the actual blade now that the spine curve is more organic. The cutting edge looks fantastically useful.

I've always been a fan of sharpening choils. Knives without them (most anyway) looked lazy to me. However, the more I actually use knives that I own that have them, the more I'm starting to dislike them. On a knife that I use for utility purposes, that is, cutting up cardboard, opening packages, etc, I find hanging up to be a real problem. The advice that you were given (and took) is very good regarding that area. I've noticed a few knives with that treatment and they look really nice, yours included.
What are you planning on handling it with?

Looking forward to seeing your finished knife.

Edit- and I agree with some of the others. It's good to go your own way. I wouldn't buy one of the forementioned Medfords, but that whole thing (sharpened pry bar) is apparently really popular. Even though they may look silly and aren't exactly practical, they aren't collecting dust either. ;)
 
Thanks man. I actually had the bevels just the way I wanted it and screwed it up trying to sand the flats! ughhh now it's a full flat. owell. Try try again. as far as the choil goes, ya, I think your right. I love the look but it's going to get hung up on stuff for sure. The handle curve is super curvy because I just liked the way it looked on paper and it actually feels pretty good in hand. And on the subject of thick knives, I think they look pretty cool, but in my limited exp. (Boker Albatross) I can take or leave them. I have some black linen micarta I am going to use. if I ever get it done.. lol
 
zealot said:
Thanks man. I actually had the bevels just the way I wanted it and screwed it up trying to sand the flats! ughhh now it's a full flat. owell. Try try again. as far as the choil goes, ya, I think your right. I love the look but it's going to get hung up on stuff for sure. The handle curve is super curvy because I just liked the way it looked on paper and it actually feels pretty good in hand. And on the subject of thick knives, I think they look pretty cool, but in my limited exp. (Boker Albatross) I can take or leave them. I have some black linen micarta I am going to use. if I ever get it done.. lol
Click to expand...

That my Friend is what I can a D.M. Design modification! LOL

I always curse a blue streak when I think I have F%$*ed it up! Keep in mind that 90% of everything was a mistake when it first happened. From Yeast in bread to how plastics were discovered for just two examples.

Keep an open mind how your DM's might have another application?
 
back from HT and just got the handles on. Kinda messed them up by not allowing enough up front near the ricosso.



 
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