ZT Fans

As far as I can tell only the ones from the first batches don't have that polished edge/ring, I could be wrong though.

I like your theory but I think it's the other way around. I believe the older batches have the polished outer ring. Check my post #221, I do not have the polished ring and my serial number is like 5xxx something.
 
I like your theory but I think it's the other way around. I believe the older batches have the polished outer ring. Check my post #221, I do not have the polished ring and my serial number is like 5xxx something.

Looks like you're right. I just went through some pics I'd collected from when the 0452 just came out and the earliest serial number I found was 04xx and that one does have the polished ring. Mine is 27xx and also still has it, so it must be a fairly recent change.

I stand corrected.
 
This page needs a pic by the way:

23809301060_7237e2f343_b.jpg
 
I have a question for other 0452cf owners.

This is my first framelock knife & I noticed something funny the other day after carving on some sticks.

Under normal use the lock up on my knife is pretty much perfect at about 40%, but when I do some harder cutting and/or have the knife twist in my hand & there's additional pressure on the lock-bar it pushes the lock-bar in further to about a 105% where the lock bar almost touches the CF scale. I can copy this behavior by simply pressing hard on the lock bar with my thumb when the knife is opened.

I don't think this is normal but can I somehow adjust this out perhaps, maybe by playing with the stainless insert in the lock bar? I'd hate to have to send this one back to the US under warranty but the idea of having a faulty knife really worries me.

In case the knife will have to go back to KAI, does anyone know if they'll pay for shipping to send the knife back to them? Also, I bought mine on ebay, new but with no box or a receipt from an authorized seller, would that be a problem for a warranty claim?

Pardon the lousy pics, I can try to take some better ones at daylight tomorrow if necessary.

Normal lock up:

24617147841_f22cf1c651_b.jpg


"Exaggerated" lock up:

24415127900_db4066b48d_b.jpg
 
It is not normal. However your knife is just as safe as any other Ti framelock IMO. If a frame lock is going to fail under stress it doesn't matter if the lockup is 20% vs 100%. It is going to fail. IMO 100% is better than 5-10%. Now what is unsafe about your lock up is possible lock stick and the blade jumping when you disengage the lock.

The great thing about your knife is it has an interchangeable lockbar insert. Send the knife in to KAI. They will replace the lockbar insert and tune the blade tang to match. In theory giving you a more desirable lock up.

That is just my opinion. I am no expert on the matter.

EDIT: KAI will only pay return shipping.
 
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It is not normal. However your knife is just as safe as any other Ti framelock IMO. If a frame lock is going to fail under stress it doesn't matter if the lockup is 20% vs 100%. It is going to fail. IMO 100% is better than 5-10%. Now what is unsafe about your lock up is possible lock stick and the blade jumping when you disengage the lock.

The great thing about your knife is it has an interchangeable lockbar insert. Send the knife in to KAI. They will replace the lockbar insert and tune the blade tang to match. In theory giving you a more desirable lock up.

That is just my opinion. I am no expert on the matter.

EDIT: KAI will only pay return shipping.

Thanks for the quick reply, that is somewhat comforting.

I'd really hate to send it in and be without the knife for a month or longer though, & my faith in your USPS also isn't all that great neither to be honest.

I think I'm just gonna contact KAI and ask them for a new lock-bar insert or two & see if I can fix it myself. If that won't work I'll just have to live with it I guess.

The lock does stick when the lock bar is over-extended like that, so much so that I need two hands to unlock it, but the blade doesn't seem to jump when the lock disengages.

If anyone else has more advice or another opinion I'd still like to hear to too.
 

Hey Kurt,

I only went through the first page of that thread quickly but yes, exactly like that. I wonder why I didn't find that thread when googling everything about the 0452 before I bought it.

I'm gonna read the rest of the thread and copy my post to it so I won't derail this thread any further, thanks for the heads up!

ps: in case you hadn't put it together, you also know me as Boom from the other forum ;)
 
Thanks for the quick reply, that is somewhat comforting.

I'd really hate to send it in and be without the knife for a month or longer though, & my faith in your USPS also isn't all that great neither to be honest.

I think I'm just gonna contact KAI and ask them for a new lock-bar insert or two & see if I can fix it myself. If that won't work I'll just have to live with it I guess.

The lock does stick when the lock bar is over-extended like that, so much so that I need two hands to unlock it, but the blade doesn't seem to jump when the lock disengages.

If anyone else has more advice or another opinion I'd still like to hear to too.

The nature of a frame lock will change lock up when you have the blade wedged and you twist the handle. Think about what is happening, you have 2 different pieces of material, sandwiched together whovign, one goes and the other goes down. That impacts the geometry of the lockbar engagement, even on liner locks the same thing can be expected. The lockup to remain consistent, when you have lateral forces introduced. If you want something that doesn't do that a fixed blade would be a much better option.
 
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Here's my new grip my dad made me for my 566.
PART_1454201198424_IMG_20160130_194433042_zpszo6glckr.jpg
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Wow, very nice. I have so many knives I'd like to dress up like that. But don't have the fundz to let someone else make them, and don't have the time to do them myself (as if I could even come close to the quality of a real craftsman).
 
The nature of a frame lock will change lock up when you have the blade wedged and you twist the handle. Think about what is happening, you have expect the lockup to remain consistent. If you want something that doesn't do that a fixed blade would be a much better option.

Yeah, I wish someone had told me that before I bought one. I thought I'd done plenty of research beforehand but I guess not. It wouldn't be much of a problem if at least the lock would disengage normally when it happens but it becomes a two handed operated knife after you do more with it then open a letter or a box.

I tried tightening the pivot like suggested in the other thread but that only helped a little. Even if I tighten it to the point where the knife won't flip out anymore the lock bar is still able to travel all the way over to the other scale.

I still can't believe this is normal for a 400$ knife, which is what they cost over here in EU.

I'm so fed up with expensive knives right now, I'm seriously thinking about ditching all of 'm and stick with ugly Moras in the future, at least you now what you get with those.

/rant...
 
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