2021 #85 Crown Lifter

btb01 said:
That’s probably my only complaint about the natural canvas Micarta. I love the way it looks when it’s fresh/new, but it never stays that way.

Exhibit A:

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Stages of Micarta.
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Viper84 said:
When the pull of the bottle opener is so strong that the force of it opening draws blood when it hits your thumb. I'm literally putting my blood into flushing this knife.

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Damn. Try flushing it and stretching that spring. If it’s still like that maybe there is a small defect. From what I have heard on here and other forums- this 85 cap lifter spring is a beast. It may just be the way it is. Good luck.
 
bbk357 said:
Damn. Try flushing it and stretching that spring. If it’s still like that maybe there is a small defect. From what I have heard on here and other forums- this 85 cap lifter spring is a beast. It may just be the way it is. Good luck.
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Out of curiosity, what do you mean by stretching the spring? How would one do something like that?
 
euroken said:
Out of curiosity, what do you mean by stretching the spring? How would one do something like that?
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bbk357 said the following a few posts back:

"open the blade so that the spring on the back extends as far as it can. Usually this is when the blade is between the open position and half stop."

Now I'm not 100% sure, but my understanding was the only way to weaken a spring was to cycle it over and over, so I'm not sure if "stretching" does anything.
 
I don't believe cycling it over and over will do anything unless the steel is bent beyond the yield point, at which point the shape will be permanently deformed. Below the yield point, steel will 'spring' back to it's original form.

Not trying to question any expertise but wanted to understand how one might 'stretch' steel.
 
euroken said:
I don't believe cycling it over and over will do anything unless the steel is bent beyond the yield point, at which point the shape will be permanently deformed. Below the yield point, steel will 'spring' back to it's original form.

Not trying to question any expertise but wanted to understand how one might 'stretch' steel.
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That's true, but I'm assuming a traditional knife is designed in a way to prevent going beyond the yield point, so the only option would be cycling the spring.
 
Viper84 said:
I have the worst luck sometimes. My micarta 85 arrived today, and the cap lifter has a pull that is like 11/10. It is nearly impossible to pull out. I have to first open the blade and then grip both sides with a finger nail in the nail nick and apply so much force that it feels like my finger nail will rip off. :mad:

Anyone else experience this?

Not looking forward to waiting months for this to be fixed under warranty.
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Coyja said:
I traded mine off within three hours of receiving it exactly because of this!
(There wasn't anything in the pivot, either)
The blade was totally fine at a 6.5-7.

Whats the point of having a secondary thats supposed to be a quick, useful tool when you are going to break yourself using it?
Can't believe I'm saying this, but I like the bine Urban Jack WAY more than this knife.
I have an acrylic in reserve, so hopefully I have better luck this time.
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bbk357 said:
It has nothing to do with luck or a mistake with GEC.
I have had some secondary blades do this as well, especially my beer scouts.

You need to flush the blades really really well with mineral oil. Get all the black gunk out. After that open the blade so that the spring on the back extends as far as it can. Usually this is when the blade is between the open position and half stop.
I’ve done this many times and it helps a lot and makes it easier to use. I am actually stretching the crown lifter spring on my 85 as we speak because mine is very tight as well.
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Viper84 said:
These aren't what I would call strong pulls. A strong pull is strong, but not impossible to open with one finger. I have to open the blade first before opening the cap lifter, which is dangerous, and then spend like 10 seconds trying to get the right handle on the cap lifter before pulling it out. I have to nudge it out enough to where I can get a finger under it before pulling it the rest of the way out. That's like a 20/10 pull.
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There is a few different ways to lighten the pull but if you go to half stop and put an Allen wrench under the backspring
20210306_173756.jpg here is another picture i borrowed
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and open the blade against the Allen it will bend the spring and lighten the pull. Just do it slowly and in small increments.

I love a strong pull because in doing this trick you can always get it lighter but if its a light pull there is not alot you can do to make it stronger
 
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what you can try with a 'nail breaker' is discribed by the master himself in this video from minute 13:20
but take care, loosening one blade in a two blade knife will also take effect to the other blade.

(sry for my bad english, its not my native language)
 
Goose, JoKr,

Thank you for awesome info!

With that said, I don't think I'll be hammering my blade to loosen the tightness of the rivets or trying to bend the back spring in any way. I know I'll ruin that knife in a split second lol All thumbs here.
 
euroken said:
Goose, JoKr,

Thank you for awesome info!

With that said, I don't think I'll be hammering my blade to loosen the tightness of the rivets or trying to bend the back spring in any way. I know I'll ruin that knife in a split second lol All thumbs here.
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I understand and to each their own.. the way I posted you can open it a little at a time and check it every time. It really isn't hard if you need a more detailed explanation feel free to pm or message me.
 
Viper84 said:
I have the worst luck sometimes. My micarta 85 arrived today, and the cap lifter has a pull that is like 11/10. It is nearly impossible to pull out. I have to first open the blade and then grip both sides with a finger nail in the nail nick and apply so much force that it feels like my finger nail will rip off. :mad:

Anyone else experience this?

Not looking forward to waiting months for this to be fixed under warranty.
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It's called "walk and yell".
 
Viper84 said:
bbk357 said the following a few posts back:

"open the blade so that the spring on the back extends as far as it can. Usually this is when the blade is between the open position and half stop."

Now I'm not 100% sure, but my understanding was the only way to weaken a spring was to cycle it over and over, so I'm not sure if "stretching" does anything.
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euroken said:
Out of curiosity, what do you mean by stretching the spring? How would one do something like that?
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Stretch is kind of a stretch.. haha. I guess making the spring a little weaker. It doesn’t lighten it from a 10 to a 5 but it does work. I’ve done it with my tough beer scouts and this trick with flushing it out helps a lot. And yep I’ve also sat and watched a show while working the blade band and forth...
good luck!
 
I've done the spring trick to lighten pull weight on several knives, and it does work. Sometimes you have to let it sit for several weeks to lighten it enough, but be patient. Also, depending on the shape of the tangs, sometimes it gives maximum deflection between open and half-stop, sometimes it's between closed and half-stop. This first issue American Jack in primitive bone was a solid 8½ when it arrived, and after 3 weeks of leaving it partially open, then working it a hundred times or so with oil, it is now a 6½ - 7 pull.

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The spring on my caplifter is very very strong, I’m leaving it half open for a bit to see if I can improve it, tough to open even with the main blade open.
 
Some of this is the geometry coupled with a stiff spring. It is a short blade and the nail knick is very low to the frame. It all adds to the situation. Mine is not an issue for me, however everyone is different and every knife is different.
 
I'm sure these are well made knives, but I do not get the fascination with GEC knives having gizmos like bottle cap openers, etc. I think SAK already has that pretty well covered. But I imagine it's a lot easier and cheaper than grinding and sharpening a second knife blade. Oh, well, DSFDF!
 
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