2021 Summer Kitchen Kith New Deadline: August 29

That looks cool. How to you plan to grind the tip?
The tip wouldn't be sharp it would have an edge like a nakiri so the edge would stop at the transition there. I don't see where it would wedge it should cut like a narrow nakiri but if everyone thinks that's a bad idea I'll make a more "normal" kitchen knife.
 
The tip wouldn't be sharp it would have an edge like a nakiri so the edge would stop at the transition there. I don't see where it would wedge it should cut like a narrow nakiri but if everyone thinks that's a bad idea I'll make a more "normal" kitchen knife.

Imagine if you want to cut onion and not cut through so you are working just with the tip of your knife. You would have the unsharpened tip infront of you cutting edge.

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The tip wouldn't be sharp it would have an edge like a nakiri so the edge would stop at the transition there. I don't see where it would wedge it should cut like a narrow nakiri but if everyone thinks that's a bad idea I'll make a more "normal" kitchen knife.
I think Fredy has a point, the drawing with the onion is pretty convincing. Unless the tip is sharp, it will probably get in the way.
 
I think Fredy has a point, the drawing with the onion is pretty convincing. Unless the tip is sharp, it will probably get in the way.
You could compensate for it and push the tip over onion, but for me the design is good looking (aestethically) but functionally not convincing. It's either a gyuto and has a tip (opposite of the design) or it's a nakiri and it doesn't have a tip. Please don't misread my commentary, it's well meant and of course it's your design and you should do as you please. I would be happy to test it and prove me wrong in theory :)
 
You could compensate for it and push the tip over onion, but for me the design is good looking (aestethically) but functionally not convincing. It's either a gyuto and has a tip (opposite of the design) or it's a nakiri and it doesn't have a tip. Please don't misread my commentary, it's well meant and of course it's your design and you should do as you please. I would be happy to test it and prove me wrong in theory :)
It's not my design, it's imill3567 imill3567 's. I think it looks cool, but your concerns about functionality make sense.
 
FredyCro FredyCro that does make sense now that you put it that way. I'll redesign it so that angle makes the tip not so far out ahead. Thanks for the input!
 
I've chosen my blank. All this talk about s-ground blades has gotten me considering doing something similar. My s-ground nakiri is my most used knife for vegetable prep and I've never tried an s-grind on a gyuto. I recently acquired a 14" contact wheel that should do a nice job of it.

 
Finally someone else who doesn’t wear nitrile or latex gloves while working. Cheers mate.
Never could understand those guys on Instagram with their secretary looking hands and how they are making knives wearing gloves. :D
What is it with people making a huge deal because there is dirt on your hands or finger nails when you are showing pictures of a project? Do people think we need manicured hands to make nice things? When you work with your hands they tend to look like hands that do work. I don't get it. I'm with you about the gloves.
 
I'm with you about the gloves.
I wear gloves because I don't like being itchy. So I wear them when I'm working with irritating woods, g10/micarta and any chemicals. I also wear them when I'm trying to keep my work clean. I have filthy hands.
 
I think I flew a little too close to the sun on this one. I started with heat treated 0.084" AEB-L stock at HRC 63, ground it completely with a fairly flat grind up to A45 trizact, then set the hollow on a 14" contact wheel. I may have gone a little thin with the hollow because the middle of the blade took a subtle warp and the last two inches moved about 1/8" towards the hollow. (It's a little hard to see in the photo but the blade is sitting on the work rest with the tang pressed flat showing how much the tip rises.) I guess I'll take this one as a learning exercise, throw an edge on it and use it myself for a little while and try again for my KITH submission.



 
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I think I flew a little too close to the sun on this one. I started with heat treated AEB-L stock at HRC 63, ground it completely with a fairly flat grind up to A45 trizact, then set the hollow on a 14" contact wheel. I may have gone a little thin with the hollow because the middle of the blade took a subtle warp and the last two inches moved about 1/8" towards the hollow. (It's a little hard to see in the photo but the blade is sitting on the work rest with the tang pressed flat showing how much the tip rises.) I guess I'll take this one as a learning exercise, throw an edge on it and use it myself for a little while and try again for my KITH submission.



The stock looks thin (2 mm?), the most I have seen start with a bit heavier stock for s grind and do the hollow before the flat grind. How is the flex in the blade?
 
The stock looks thin (2 mm?), the most I have seen start with a bit heavier stock for s grind and do the hollow before the flat grind. How is the flex in the blade?

It's 0.084" stock. I liked that thickness for my s-ground nakiris but obviously they don't have a point as part of the equation. This blade has quite a bit of flex. It feels reasonable for the first 6" or so because the spine is full thickness, it's really just the last 2-3" at the tip that gets overly flexible. I like doing the flat grind first because it defines how the knife will cut and how much stock I have to work with when removing the hollow. In retrospect I could have ground the blade a fair bit thicker to leave more support around the hollow (and probably not go as deep with the hollow). My aim is to create a knife that cuts exceptionally well but has the best possible food release. I feel like I'm on the right track but it may take a few more iterations to get it right.
 
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