2021 Summer Kitchen Kith New Deadline: August 29

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Rough idea of look
 
I think I flew a little too close to the sun on this one. I started with heat treated 0.084" AEB-L stock at HRC 63, ground it completely with a fairly flat grind up to A45 trizact, then set the hollow on a 14" contact wheel. I may have gone a little thin with the hollow because the middle of the blade took a subtle warp and the last two inches moved about 1/8" towards the hollow. (It's a little hard to see in the photo but the blade is sitting on the work rest with the tang pressed flat showing how much the tip rises.) I guess I'll take this one as a learning exercise, throw an edge on it and use it myself for a little while and try again for my KITH submission.




It’s good to see how far you can push things.
 
I ground one, but I'm not really happy with it. The edge is a bit thinner in one spot. I spent a long time trying to even things out, but didn't quite get it. I hope the next one will be a bit more even. First thing Monday I have an appointment with the eye doc, maybe a stronger prescription will improve things.
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This looks pretty interesting, id like to know how that cuts TBH! Theres alot of talk about steering and blades that are not quite straight but in my humble uses i barely notice such things. the could have really cool food release , is it too flexible?

I think I flew a little too close to the sun on this one. I started with heat treated 0.084" AEB-L stock at HRC 63, ground it completely with a fairly flat grind up to A45 trizact, then set the hollow on a 14" contact wheel. I may have gone a little thin with the hollow because the middle of the blade took a subtle warp and the last two inches moved about 1/8" towards the hollow. (It's a little hard to see in the photo but the blade is sitting on the work rest with the tang pressed flat showing how much the tip rises.) I guess I'll take this one as a learning exercise, throw an edge on it and use it myself for a little while and try again for my KITH submission.



 
im in. Ill sure try to have something finished. Ive got a handful of bladeforums makers knives now and its all i use :)
 
Haven't done a euro chef yet, so might try that for a change. Something along these lines.
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That looks great. Are you going for an S-grind as well?

With a faceted handle like that, do you grind that mostly before you glue the scales to the knife?
 
That looks great. Are you going for an S-grind as well?

With a faceted handle like that, do you grind that mostly before you glue the scales to the knife?

Thanks, thats a good question, I only did two handles like that and they were both hidden tang and I could grind them apart before gluing. But I think there is enough place in the choil to reach all the handle..

Edit: I think I will try a small "fuller", not a real s-grind, but I am not sure how much it's going to remain when I thin out the edge..
 
Thanks, thats a good question, I only did two handles like that and they were both hidden tang and I could grind them apart before gluing. But I think there is enough place in the choil to reach all the handle..

Edit: I think I will try a small "fuller", not a real s-grind, but I am not sure how much it's going to remain when I thin out the edge..
Maybe you can use alignment pins and get most of the work done before gluing. It seems a lot less stressful.
 
I started reading J Jason Fry 's "Next Level Knife Making" book and he has a section titled "Take Advantage of Social Pressures" early on in the book. The section is all about forcing yourself to get better through some form of social pressure, whether it is through friendly competition with somebody else or some public commitment on social media. It reminded me of this KITH and how it is motivating me to improve. Especially as a relatively new knife maker, I am going to give it 110% to try and make the best knife I can. There are still 86 days until the deadline, so it is not too late to join in if you are looking for some extra motivation to improve your knife making or try something new.
 
Just to let everyone know, I let my Knifemaker subscription run out. I don’t think I can receive PMs anymore. I can be reached at WJKrywko at gmail dot com.
 
I started reading J Jason Fry 's "Next Level Knife Making" book and he has a section titled "Take Advantage of Social Pressures" early on in the book. The section is all about forcing yourself to get better through some form of social pressure, whether it is through friendly competition with somebody else or some public commitment on social media. It reminded me of this KITH and how it is motivating me to improve. Especially as a relatively new knife maker, I am going to give it 110% to try and make the best knife I can. There are still 86 days until the deadline, so it is not too late to join in if you are looking for some extra motivation to improve your knife making or try something new.
Getting feedback is VERY important. We have all seen American Idol auditions where everyone has told someone how great they are, but they really need some proper instruction. I asked for feedback continuously as a therapist decades ago. It made me a much better therapist much quicker.
 
I finished grinding two of the nakiri last weekend, but decided to make new ones for the KITH that are slightly longer (170mm). I'll finish the other two and keep one for myself and give one to a friend. This morning, I heat treated the new nakiri blanks. One is straight as an arrow, which is pretty rare for me when using AEB-L. They have about an hour left in the tempering oven, so the straight one still has plenty of opportunity to warp...

I have never made a saya before and have been reading up on it a bit. Of course, the internet is full of opinions about what wood to use for sayas. Some say basswood is ideal because it is soft on the blade, some say it is too soft for a saya and gets dings and dents too easily. I happen to have a large piece of basswood, so I thought I'd ask y'all what you think. Is basswood ok for a saya, or should I use something a bit harder. I have maple, walnut, cedar and cypress in suitable sizes on hand.
 
Basswood core, other woods on the outside panels works great. Most of the Japanese saya are wood similar to Poplar on the outside.
I use Basswood in the thickness for the thickest part of the blade, trace blade and cut out. Glue outer panels on (Titebond original, others are said to lead to rust due to off gassing?), shape and sand.

Profiling out 2 Nitro V blades for this, but I found an already hardened AEB-L blade I may use instead.

Been playing with grinding methods and different hardness of felt.

.140" S30V with S2-32 Hard Felt:
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.140" S30V with F3 felt (same knife, different handle):
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Tojiro ITK Shirogami 240mm Kiritsuke gyuto completely reground (No more Kurouchi finish, thinned way down to a laser):
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Cool alloy banding and stuff on the Tojiro, too
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