2021 Summer Kitchen Kith New Deadline: August 29

Taz said:
Basswood core, other woods on the outside panels works great. Most of the Japanese saya are wood similar to Poplar on the outside.
I use Basswood in the thickness for the thickest part of the blade, trace blade and cut out. Glue outer panels on (Titebond original, others are said to lead to rust due to off gassing?), shape and sand.

Profiling out 2 Nitro V blades for this, but I found an already hardened AEB-L blade I may use instead.

Been playing with grinding methods and different hardness of felt.

.140" S30V with S2-32 Hard Felt:
Efwa9si.jpg


.140" S30V with F3 felt (same knife, different handle):
JDkqG0o.jpg


Tojiro ITK Shirogami 240mm Kiritsuke gyuto completely reground (No more Kurouchi finish, thinned way down to a laser):
78p7cwz.jpg


Cool alloy banding and stuff on the Tojiro, too
A79ozSg.jpg
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Interesting to see the difference between the two felts. Did you do the entire bevel with the felt or did you use a platen first? I just recently started using felt and I'm still experimenting with it.

I was planning to do the saya from two pieces and chisel out a recess for the blade in one half, then glue on the second half. Is there a problem with Titebond II, or are you referring to non-PVA glues such as polyurethane?
 
The blades were ground on a regular flat platen and then the felt. I think the F3 is nicer to work with, and I want to try some softer felt as well. I just started with the felt as well, and still playing with it.

For the glue, I heard people had blades rust when using other titebonds but I think titebond 1 is OK, not sure about the other titebonds or other types of glues. Check out poplar for the saya, inexpensive and soft to work.
 
Bump. Apparently membership is not needed to receive PMs. I received one on something unrelated to the Kith.
 
I just wanted to give this thread a bump, there are only seven weeks left until the deadline. Has anybody made any progress?

I ground a nakiri today, and grinding the blade went really well. This was a 1/16" AEB-L blade that had a considerable warp after heat treat that I fixed by peening with a carbide hammer. The blade stayed straight while grinding until the very end when I ground the little dimples from peening out. Unfortunately, that's when the blade went back into its original banana shape... I'm not sure how to fix it without putting more dimples in the blade, might try bending it in the vise.
 
Hubert S. said:
I just wanted to give this thread a bump, there are only seven weeks left until the deadline. Has anybody made any progress?

I ground a nakiri today, and grinding the blade went really well. This was a 1/16" AEB-L blade that had a considerable warp after heat treat that I fixed by peening with a carbide hammer. The blade stayed straight while grinding until the very end when I ground the little dimples from peening out. Unfortunately, that's when the blade went back into its original banana shape... I'm not sure how to fix it without putting more dimples in the blade, might try bending it in the vise.
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I had a similiar thing going on with my recent blades. Peen it with your carbide hammer very gently, along the spine or in places you have more meat, grind the dimples away with 120 grit belt.

In my head the deadline was end of June, and I was afraid I wouldn't make it. End of July should be plenty of time.
 
Hubert S. said:
I just wanted to give this thread a bump, there are only seven weeks left until the deadline. Has anybody made any progress?

I ground a nakiri today, and grinding the blade went really well. This was a 1/16" AEB-L blade that had a considerable warp after heat treat that I fixed by peening with a carbide hammer. The blade stayed straight while grinding until the very end when I ground the little dimples from peening out. Unfortunately, that's when the blade went back into its original banana shape... I'm not sure how to fix it without putting more dimples in the blade, might try bending it in the vise.
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Peening has worked for me but sometimes it fails. A shimmed temper or multiple have never failed me. There are plenty of guides on here, Stacy has described it many times too.
 
Skiller1nc said:
Peening has worked for me but sometimes it fails. A shimmed temper or multiple have never failed me. There are plenty of guides on here, Stacy has described it many times too.
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I've had good luck with the shimmed temper on carbon steel, but could never get it to do anything on AEB-L.
 
Hubert S. said:
I just wanted to give this thread a bump, there are only seven weeks left until the deadline. Has anybody made any progress?

I ground a nakiri today, and grinding the blade went really well. This was a 1/16" AEB-L blade that had a considerable warp after heat treat that I fixed by peening with a carbide hammer. The blade stayed straight while grinding until the very end when I ground the little dimples from peening out. Unfortunately, that's when the blade went back into its original banana shape... I'm not sure how to fix it without putting more dimples in the blade, might try bending it in the vise.
Click to expand...
Yeah man, have profiled a blade out and got scales laminated. Should be god by deadline. Will get it rough ground and heat treated this weekend.
 
I tried the shimmed temper and used a much thicker shim than I would use for carbon steel. The blade came out with a nice golden hue but just as crooked as it went in the oven two hours earlier. So I used the carbide hammer with very light taps and got it pretty straight. I hope this time it will stay straight once I grind out the little dimples.
 
Hubert S. said:
I'll give it a try this afternoon and see what happens.
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I don't think I do anything special, I use 2 C clamps, a small drill bit normally a 1/8 bit, or a nail, I clamp the blade down 1 inch before where the warp is and put the nail at the apex, I tighten both clamps as tight as they go. I temper at low temps (like 300), below the target temper, and only go hotter (I only go to the temp I want to temper at never over) if the warp doesn't come out. I dunk the whole contraption in water and don't unclamp until cool
 
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