26C3 Carbon Steel - Spicy White

I thought I was the only one who thought that ... :D
From a practical perspective I’m in agreement with you but we all know it’s a cool look and selling point​

I’m in the same boat too. If people want to pay for it, then enjoy! Some use 1500 sic powdered abrasives once a month to bring the hamon back out. I provide some every knife I sell with a hamon.
 
I am wondering about the whole hamon thing on kitchen knives. I just used Hoss' advice and did a damascus blade totally with Gator and cork belts, no hadn't sanding required. It made me happy. I HATE hand sanding. :p I an thinking about doing forced patina finishes on my monosteel blades.
 
What is this steel like as far as it's cutting characteristics is it aggressive like M390 and M4.
 
I heat treated a kiritsiku yesterday, corrected a small warp today, and am doing a quick etch to see the hamon after grinding off decarb with a 120g belt. I got Rc63/64 using my W2 protocol, 1460fx10 min, into DT-48, 300f temper. I went lower than the recommended 1475f, to see what type of activity I get in the hamon. I was going for choji. Pics later. I’m going to test heat treat from 1430f to 1480f to see what my optimum temp is in my shop.

Grinding seems to be a bit harder than W2 or 52100, but no where near z-wear. Probably like z-tuff or A2.
 
I heat treated a kiritsiku yesterday, corrected a small warp today, and am doing a quick etch to see the hamon after grinding off decarb with a 120g belt. I got Rc63/64 using my W2 protocol, 1460fx10 min, into DT-48, 300f temper. I went lower than the recommended 1475f, to see what type of activity I get in the hamon. I was going for choji. Pics later. I’m going to test heat treat from 1430f to 1480f to see what my optimum temp is in my shop.

Grinding seems to be a bit harder than W2 or 52100, but no where near z-wear. Probably like z-tuff or A2.
I’m using the same, 1460°, 10minute soak.
I got 67 out of the quench, but I was using parks 50. I’m going to try a little higher next time to see if I can get 68, but I’m more interested in hamon activity.
 
I’m using the same, 1460°, 10minute soak.
I got 67 out of the quench, but I was using parks 50. I’m going to try a little higher next time to see if I can get 68, but I’m more interested in hamon activity.

I might do a trial with 1500 and cryo to see how hard it gets.
 
I can see a lot of activity, but there is no way I can photograph it at 120g. I’ll post photos when I get it finished better.
 
Gonna try some different things after talking to Willie71 Willie71 but this is what I have so far
mqREDCr.jpg
 
So how thick do you guys apply your clay on kitchen blades? I seem to have less luck with thin unbeveled W2 blades in that .100 range than I do say with a thick .25-.28 Bowie blade that had the bevels ground down to say .050 at the edge. Do you need to go a bit thicker and higher on the thin blades?
 
Just did my first HT with it yesterday. 1475°F 10 minutes, P50 quench. 66-67HRC. 2 hour temper x 3 @ 300F and it's about 64-65HRC, exactly what I was shooting for with this petty. I'll be grinding today, and hope to report back what hand sanding feels like. Should be quite easy.

John, that is a beautiful hamon. I like that banding as well. Like yous said, "Light but appealing". Can't wait to see what' I've got.
 
So how thick do you guys apply your clay on kitchen blades? I seem to have less luck with thin unbeveled W2 blades in that .100 range than I do say with a thick .25-.28 Bowie blade that had the bevels ground down to say .050 at the edge. Do you need to go a bit thicker and higher on the thin blades?
Yeah, I’d go a little thicker and further down. I was surprised because my first hamon was higher than I like, the second one was in a good place on the blade but if you look near the middle of my hamon, it looks like there wasn’t clay in some places where there was.
It’s a little different that how i clay w2.
 
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