26C3 Carbon Steel - Spicy White

So how thick do you guys apply your clay on kitchen blades? I seem to have less luck with thin unbeveled W2 blades in that .100 range than I do say with a thick .25-.28 Bowie blade that had the bevels ground down to say .050 at the edge. Do you need to go a bit thicker and higher on the thin blades?

On thin knives, I do a Sabre grind before heat treat. The wedge geometry is critical in getting the hamon where you want it. Then do ffg after temper.
 
I’m wondering if a stress relief cycle would help against warp. I had another blade, out of the .150 group start to warp during thermal cycle. I bent it back easily and when quenched it came out straight.
 
You will get warps when going for a Hamon. The steel cools inconsistently (the whole point) and stresses are created. I watched my oiece bow left, then right, then left again after pulling it from the oil. It corrected easily with one temper cycle. Don’t sweat it.
 
No, I am talking about doing a cycle at 1200-1250 AFTEr you do the other cycles and the rough grinding and before hardening. That sub critical anneal/stress relief cycle is about as close as I have found to a "cure" for warping.
Hmm maybe a 1700 thermal cycle followed by a 1450 cycle will do the trick?
 
The steel on my second blade warped before I clayed it Warren. Before I ground it as well.

It warped on the first blade after I ground it to reveal hamon.

I’ll try the 1200° stress relief cycle after profiling next time.
 
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The steel on my second blade warped before I clayed it Warren. Before I ground it as well.

It warped on the first blade after I ground it to reveal hamon.

I’ll try the 1200° stress relief cycle after profiling next time.

Ok, that’s different.

Thin knives with a hamon make aeb-l seem stable in comparison. Unless the clay was identical on both sides, you will get warp.
 
I'm using thin stock, paying particular attention to the heat being created during the pre ht grinding. If I grind one side, light to medium pressure (not letting it get as hot as other steels I have used during grinding), dunk and then grind other side, dunk, and continue, I don't see pre ht warp. If I make just two passes on one side, I can see the warp start to form. As someone else mentioned warp during quench pretty easy to remove. Post ht grind, I don't even let it get mildly warm during the grind and constantly dunking and flipping. Ymmv
 
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