4th knife Stubby Frame Lock - WIP

Tiiiiiiiim

Tiiiiiiiim

Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
952
Started making my 4th knife today, a stubby little frame lock. This is the second folder I've attempted, the first (my first ever knife) didn't turn out great, but i learnt wich is the main thing. I've got a few more appropriate parts etc. now so hopefully this one will go better.

Some specs:

OAL - 175mm
Cutting Edge - 77mm
Blade - 35mm wide x 4mm thick, RWL- 34 stainless
Scales/frame - 3mm, Stainless

I got a bit ahead of myself and didn't take an pics of the early processes.
Some pics:

45734243.jpg
44501196.jpg

45133252.jpg


It's not exactly light or elegant. I just wanted it to resemble a no nonsense little drop point.

I've still got to counter sink all my holes etc. but then i think i'm on to cutting in the lock. Which is going to be hard because there's no scales to hide the cut in for the lock if i do a messy job. I keep forgetting about the ball detent too, which I've never attempted.

More soon,
Tim
 
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Still going pretty good. No epic failures so far. Although i did have to put another stop pin in because the blade was over extending a bit. Everything is counter sunk, I've very carefully cut the lock in with the angle grinder and and it seems to be lining up well.

I just have to figure out how to make the lock easier to push now.

Some Pics:

18468923.jpg
53943916.jpg


42592509.jpg
41352099.jpg


More soon.
Tim.
 
Tim,
Looks really good so far! Reminds me a bit of a Ken Onion designed Packrat, but more stout. Good on you for going for it. There is a lot to think about for new makers like us when it comes to a folder. spacers, cutting the lock, detent, lining everything up. It can be a big challenge, but I think you're looking good so far!!:thumbup:

Looking forward to more progress....

Jonny

Tiiiiiiiim said:
Still going pretty good. No epic failures so far. Although i did have to put another stop pin in because the blade was over extending a bit. Everything is counter sunk, I've very carefully cut the lock in with the angle grinder and and it seems to be lining up well.

I just have to figure out how to make the lock easier to push now.

Some Pics:

18468923.jpg
53943916.jpg


42592509.jpg
41352099.jpg


More soon.
Tim.
Click to expand...
 
Tim
To make the lock eisier to push you need to thin it to about .040.Grind or file a groove at the end of your lock and the lock will not be as stiff.
Looking good keep at it.

Stan
 
Thanks Stan. Filing/grinding just the lock seems really awkward. I wish i had a milling machine of something.

Tim
 
I couldn't figure out how to easily take some meat off the butt of the lock so I drilled a hole in the end to reduce it vertically instead of horizontally to see if that would help. It didn't do much. So i figured i could use the dremal with a grinding disk to take some off the thickness and that worked pretty well. but now I've encountered another problem; I think the steel i used for the frame is too soft or something (teaches me to use unknown steel) because it doesn't spring back like it should and the lock kind of squishes up after a few pushes closing the cut and causes vertical blade play. If you follow me. So i don't know what to do now. Anyone have a miraculous solution for me or am i going to have to start the frames all over again with a proper steel?

Here's some pictures anyway.

48895370.jpg


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Tim.
 
i had thought that the spring required heat treating.
at least you can just take if off and make a new one
 
Tim
I just took for granted the frame was Ti,If it's steel then it has to be H/Ted and drawn to a spring temper.since you said mystery steel you may be outta luck.
Stan
 
Looks like a good start.

Tiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiim, I just got a bunch of Ti super cheap. Really a lot more than I expected and would be happy if someone could use it. I'd be willing to send you a piece big enough to make the liners if you want it. Check my ebay find thread for pictures of it. Some Ti wouldn't drastically lighten the knife and isn't much more difficult to work than the stainless.
 
Tiiiiiiiim said:
the lock kind of squishes up after a few pushes
Click to expand...
Part of that will also be due to bad lock geometry.
You cut that lockface so that it pushes up.
Cut the next one so it's 90 degrees to the top of the lock.
You want the force to push along the lockbar, not up towards the spine.

And don't waste time on mystery metal, that's only a couple of dollars worth of good material.
 
SBuzek said:
Tim
I just took for granted the frame was Ti,If it's steel then it has to be H/Ted and drawn to a spring temper.since you said mystery steel you may be outta luck.
Stan
Click to expand...

Thanks Stan, i must have glossed over all the parts in the tutorials I've read saying you have to HT the frame :D I made a liner lock with some 410 ss i got from americanknife supplies and it seemed to be plenty springy. Would they have pre-HT/tempered that?

EDIT: The 410 isn't HT but it does give this info.

Tip: To harden bring it to non-magnetic temperature and then cool rapidly under a fan. This is really simple with a small piece cut to size and using a small MAP gas torch. Heat it up until a magnet doesn't stick any more and then cool it off. It will pick up 5 or 6RC hardness. Usually, 400 series stainless doesn't get much harder than mid 40's so don't expect it to blade hard. The idea behind this is to give your folder just a little more stiffness.

This isn't what i made this frame lock out of...just to be clear.

zaph1 said:
Looks like a good start.

Tiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiim, I just got a bunch of Ti super cheap. Really a lot more than I expected and would be happy if someone could use it. I'd be willing to send you a piece big enough to make the liners if you want it. Check my ebay find thread for pictures of it. Some Ti wouldn't drastically lighten the knife and isn't much more difficult to work than the stainless.
Click to expand...

I'd love some, I have no idea where to get it from around here.

Brian Fellhoelter Knives said:
Part of that will also be due to bad lock geometry.
You cut that lockface so that it pushes up.
Cut the next one so it's 90 degrees to the top of the lock.
You want the force to push along the lockbar, not up towards the spine.

And don't waste time on mystery metal, that's only a couple of dollars worth of good material.
Click to expand...

Thats for the tips. As for the use of material, i didn't think it mattered. This is how we learn i guess :D not my favourite way to learn though. :(

Thanks for the input guys.
Tim.
 
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zaph1 said:
Looks like a good start.

Tiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiim, I just got a bunch of Ti super cheap. Really a lot more than I expected and would be happy if someone could use it. I'd be willing to send you a piece big enough to make the liners if you want it. Check my ebay find thread for pictures of it. Some Ti wouldn't drastically lighten the knife and isn't much more difficult to work than the stainless.
Click to expand...

There's a damn generous offer right there, Tim:thumbup: Best of luck getting this one tuned up.
 
and there i was thinking i was half way there :(
Oh, well. I might go start a fixed blade while i ponder what to do.

Tim.
 
Tim, I say go for it. I've found that when I'm stuck on a problem with one knife, I tend to do my best designing of another model:thumbup:
 
Thanks Jonny. I decided to make a fixed version of this folder while i was waiting. It's going pretty good. Trie to put a swedge on it with the grinder and it worked...alright. We'll see how it turns out.

Tim.
 
Tiiiiiiiiiiiim, PM me your mailing address and I will ship out a piece today. Take your pick, I've got 3"x9" .1625" thick, 3"x6" .063" thick. Either will fit in an envelope, although it will take about a week to get to Australia.
 
not really sure how you cut the lock with an angle grinder :eek: but here's a method you might try...it doesn't burn the Titanium at all and is probably a little quiter :D

if you have a drill press get yourself some REINFORCED Dremel Cut off wheels and a mandrel. Chuck that sucker up in the drill presses chuck and put the liner to be cut in a el cheap drill press vise and put the drill press on say a 3000 RPM setting and run the lock back and forth. do the same for the short part of the lock.

I don't cut all the way to the meeting joint and instead use a hacksaw blade with many teeth to join the joint. works great.

Other than that, GREAT folder design!! :thumbup::thumbup:
 
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