4th knife Stubby Frame Lock - WIP

Thanks for the update, Tim!

The fixed blades are looking good as well. Nice jimping on the spines:thumbup:
 
Hey, Tiiiiiiiiiiiim, I just learned that a small enough piece of Ti(like a spring in a slipjoint) in a spot welder will ignite. Not quite like magnesium, but close, more flash than burn. Grinding sparks are nothing compared to that! Yes, it's definitely light and works different than carbon steel. Personally, I love the clean-ness of it and enjoy the fact that it won't rust, corrode, or about anything else. When you get done look into anodizing with 9v batteries. Very cheap to do and easy. It looks great and a LOT can be done with it. I just ordered 8 more pieces of Ti, similar to what I sent you.
 
zaph1 said:
Hey, Tiiiiiiiiiiiim, I just learned that a small enough piece of Ti(like a spring in a slipjoint) in a spot welder will ignite. Not quite like magnesium, but close, more flash than burn. Grinding sparks are nothing compared to that! Yes, it's definitely light and works different than carbon steel. Personally, I love the clean-ness of it and enjoy the fact that it won't rust, corrode, or about anything else. When you get done look into anodizing with 9v batteries. Very cheap to do and easy. It looks great and a LOT can be done with it. I just ordered 8 more pieces of Ti, similar to what I sent you.
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Yeah, a couple of times when i was profiling the Ti with the 40# some bigger sparks flew off and fizzled for a couple of seconds. I do like how clean and light it is and it grinds on the sander pretty nice and drills very nicely.

mattbrook said:
Tim,

That top drop point looks the goods mate. Going to Hills for the heat treat?

Matt
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The top one? I'm excited about that one. It's the biggest I've made so far and the first time I've tried a bit of a recurve. Yep they'll be heading to hills soon.

jonnymac44 said:
Thanks for the update, Tim!

The fixed blades are looking good as well. Nice jimping on the spines:thumbup:
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Thanks jonny. I can't wait to see them finished especially the top one. I've got some tasmanian blackwood lined up for its handle.lP
 
Everything's going alright. I've drilled my pivot and stand off/stop pin holes (too close to the edge). Now i'm up to what to do with the lock. I've drawn and mucked around with it a bit but cant reall see how i can do it other than how i had it last time. Which someone said the locking geometry was bad because the angle it is cut on lends it to squash the lock up. I don't know what else to do. because of the shape i cant have a nice round butt of the blade so i only have a little bit to play with. The design is probably the main problem.

If anyone could help of throw some suggestions at me it would be much appreciated.

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FTO_dude said:
seems to me like this is the only way to go tim
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and for gods sake put some shoes on!!
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Thanks fto. I'm just wondering if I do it straight back like that will it be too hard to push? The other question is weather the butt of the knife will stay on the lock or fall off half way.

I know, I should wear shoes. I forget.
 
You worked yourself into a bit of a corner with the design and pivot placement.
You will need to relieve the frame to get an acceptable spring tension regardless, so unless you can adjust the lockface angle, you are tied to the lockbar as drawn.

It's easy to tell if the lock will fall off, just draw the lock on there and then rotate the blade.
You really want the detent ball to not fall off the blade.

You can stick a magic marker up against the bottom of you blade, in the choil area closest to the pivot and swing the blade from open to closed leaving an arc on the handle.
You want the part of your lock that holds the detent to be inside the arc you drew.
 
Brian Fellhoelter Knives said:
You worked yourself into a bit of a corner with the design and pivot placement.
You will need to relieve the frame to get an acceptable spring tension regardless, so unless you can adjust the lockface angle, you are tied to the lockbar as drawn.

It's easy to tell if the lock will fall off, just draw the lock on there and then rotate the blade.
You really want the detent ball to not fall off the blade.

You can stick a magic marker up against the bottom of you blade, in the choil area closest to the pivot and swing the blade from open to closed leaving an arc on the handle.
You want the part of your lock that holds the detent to be inside the arc you drew.
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Yeah, i realize that now. I should put more detail into my mock ups.

Anyway, I've cut the lock and am set to relieve the tension a bit. DO i relieve it right on the hole? (see picture)

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Tim.

P.S Better FTO? at least i have some kind of footwear on.
 
Alright, thanks Stan. I'll try that now. Say Stan do you get any work done? You seem to be on the forums more than your in your shop :D
 
I was out there most of the day,when I'm not in the shop or at work I'm here.
Stan
 
Good news is...IT'S WORKING! haha. But it's as stiff as anything. I might just have to thin it out a little more tomorrow, at the moment its a two hand close.


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All is going pretty well. I gave the frame a quick shape up and finish so I could see what it might look like. I'll probably leave the frame as is until I grind the blade etc. I think everything is going pretty good at the moment.

See attached photos.

More soon,
Tim.
 

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This may be the wrong solution, but bend it back out just a little. If it's that stiff it's probably bent too far inward. I didn't relieve my folder at all, I just got it the right amount of bend and the close is the perfect pressure now. Heat it with a torch, it makes it much easier to bend. Red hot just like steel. Light sanding after wards will clean it back up to shiny.

Of Course, someone may have a different solution. Glad to see your wearing shoes this time, hehehe.
 
zaph1 said:
This may be the wrong solution, but bend it back out just a little. If it's that stiff it's probably bent too far inward. I didn't relieve my folder at all, I just got it the right amount of bend and the close is the perfect pressure now. Heat it with a torch, it makes it much easier to bend. Red hot just like steel. Light sanding after wards will clean it back up to shiny.

Of Course, someone may have a different solution. Glad to see your wearing shoes this time, hehehe.
Click to expand...

The resistance isn't too bad now that I've made a little cut out on the opposite scale. You can get more of a push on it.
 
I ground the blade and filed in the jimping tonight. Now i just have to drill the thumb stud, sand the whole sucka up then send it away for HT. I'm still deciding weather to put a p-clip on or not. what do you think?
Main grind with ---40#------------------------------------------------------------------------------120# - Ready for hand sanding-------------------------------------------------------------------Next to it's fixed sibling.
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More Soon,
Tim.
 
Tim,
Sorry I haven't posted in a few days. Just caught back up with this one and I'm liking it. Despite a few setbacks you've kept going and it's looking really good:thumbup: I think it's going to be a really nice looking folder when you're done. Keep it coming!
 
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