5160 edge retention

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Also diamond rods that unscrew out of a handle and are only 3 inches long can be taken anywhere and make touch ups easy and weigh next to nothing. Leather belts can do wonders for stopping an edge as well.

Their is SO much you don't know, I don't feel like typing it all out but Duane, you really need to open your mind and get some hands on with new steels before making judgments. Ive had in the neighborhood of 15 different steels that I've used and many guys here including Jim have even more experience with steels than myself.
 
shinyedges said:
I know exactly what you mean.. we need a pamphlet of knife steel info, broken down so a baby can understand it.

After they tell is how the field dressed a moose with their gas station pocket knife and then shaved their face we can smile and hand them a pamphlet lol
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Yeah. ROFL :D

I have what I call my box cutter that's A11 with SAK geometry that I would take anyplace knowing it would take any kind of use I needed it to realistically.

Knowing I won't need to sharpen it or even touch it up for a very long time in any type of normal use.

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shinyedges said:
Duane,

Your assumptions of all super steels chipping and needing to be repaired before being sharpened is not accurate.

I didn't get heavy into the knife hobby till after I ets'd out of the army.
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Not an assumption.

We would get them privates who would spend a portion of their bonus on way too expensive knives. In less than 10 days they'd be so dull and they had no clue how to sharpen anything. They would copy me and then ask me to help. The rocks wear down and felt like they dulled the blade more. Where the simple less educated guys knives sharpened right back up. You can trust most of them learned their lesson.

I was into knives long before I went in. I knew off the bat I'd want tough and easy to sharpen. That assumption my friend was correct that time.
 
Nice, how's A11 compared to 10v... are they cousins?
 
What expensive knives were the privates using? In what steels? How can you speak for ALL modern steels without knowing every one of them?

Your blanket assumptions are indeed wrong.

If you don't understand that, I won't try and explain anything to you anymore.

How easy a steel sharpens depends ALOT on hardness, so your blades were softer and more easy to sharpen. With proper technique most steels are not that difficult to sharpen. Knowledge is key Duane.
Duane Sanders said:
Not an assumption.

We would get them privates who would spend a portion of their bonus on way too expensive knives. In less than 10 days they'd be so dull and they had no clue how to sharpen anything. They would copy me and then ask me to help. The rocks wear down and felt like they dulled the blade more. Where the simple less educated guys knives sharpened right back up. You can trust most of them learned their lesson.

I was into knives long before I went in. I knew off the bat I'd want tough and easy to sharpen. That assumption my friend was correct that time.
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shinyedges said:
Ha, I knew their must be a relation if A11 had that level of wear resistance.
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Yeah, A11 can be something if done right, not exactly chippy either from my experience with it in a number of different blades.

Easy to touch up too using simple ceramics or a SIC loaded strop etc, nothing special or expensive.

Yeah A11..... 10V, K294, ZAPP A11....
 
I'm sure the thin geometry aids in keeping it sharp as well, my big Chris blade in 3v exhibits this trait do to optimal geometry.
Ankerson said:
Yeah, A11 can be something if done right, not exactly chippy either from my experience with it in a number of different blades.

Easy to touch up too using simple ceramics or a SIC loaded strop etc, nothing special or expensive.

Yeah A11..... 10V, K294, ZAPP A11....
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shinyedges said:
I'm sure the thin geometry aids in keeping it sharp as well, my big Chris blade in 3v exhibits this trait do to optimal geometry.
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Not really that thin, it's .020" behind the edge with .070" spine thickness, SAK geometry. :)
 
Your right its not that thin behind the edge, surprising. Although the spine thickness is thin, at least to me. Did Darrin experiment with thinner behind the edge? How's 10v hold up when its .010 or less?
Ankerson said:
Not really that thin, it's .020" behind the edge with .070" spine thickness, SAK geometry. :)
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shinyedges said:
Your right its not that thin behind the edge, surprising. Although the spine thickness is thin, at least to me. Did Darrin experiment with thinner behind the edge? How's 10v hold up when its .010 or less?
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My other ones are .012" (62.5) and .009" (64) for the customs I own, 10V and K294.

Tested one that was .004" and it held up fine also whittling wood etc, it was 64.5 HRC.

Then I have the Spyderco K2 in 10V and the MT in K390.
 
Some folks will tell you steel shatters at that hardness and geometry while cutting marshmallows.

Glad to hear 10v can be taken that thin and still handle wood, big Chris has some knives in 10v that are more general purpose so its nice to see 10v has a fairly broad spectrum of uses.

Its on my list to try.
Ankerson said:
My other ones are .012" (62.5) and .009" (64) for the customs I own, 10V and K294.

Tested one that was .004" and it held up fine also whittling wood etc, it was 64.5 HRC.

Then I have the Spyderco K2 in 10V and the MT in K390.
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shinyedges said:
Some folks will tell you steel shatters at that hardness and geometry while cutting marshmallows.

Glad to hear 10v can be taken that thin and still handle wood, big Chris has some knives in 10v that are more general purpose so its nice to see 10v has a fairly broad spectrum of uses.

Its on my list to try.
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It's not quite as chippy as some would like people to think.

I have a field knife in the works now that will be in CPM 10V.... It's a collaboration. :)
 
Damn it your knife budget is larger than mine and I'm slightly jealous lol
Ankerson said:
It's not quite as chippy as some would like people to think.

I have a field knife in the works now that will be in CPM 10V.... It's a collaboration. :)
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shinyedges said:
Damn it your knife budget is larger than mine and I'm slightly jealous lol
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It's a joint effort, collaboration. :)

The 10V blade will be the prototype to see how well the design works.

Could change the steel to 4V or A2 etc in the future depending on what is needed etc.
 
I trust you'll keep us updated on how it does...
Ankerson said:
It's a joint effort, collaboration. :)

The 10V blade will be the prototype to see how well the design works.
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I don't think most steels would shatter shaving wood. There are considerations to be had depending on use, though. It seems most people probably don't need a lot of toughness in smaller blades. Some people do. I saw a dude pounding on hardened bar of REX 121 and it took quite a bit for it to break. Much less than some other steels, but it didn't shatter with the slightest hit. Gotta be realistic in your needs. Maybe in Duane's life he's found easy to sharpen, tough steels to be what works for him. If so, that's cool. He doesn't need to get everyone thinking like him though. To a lot of people carrying huge choppers makes as much sense as carrying thin fillet knives. There's a happy medium and a lot of this is more or less academic. Put most cutlery grade steels in most knife designs and I think most people would find a way to make them work.
 
Thing about Duane is, he is using a very limited experience with other peoples hard to sharpen and brittle knives and painting every modern super steel as the same.


As you know blanket statements with knife steels are almost always wrong unless the statement is "all modern knife steels are metal" lol

I'm with you on the different purposes for different steels and geometry and what fits one person may not be right for the next guy.

That said, denying factual scientific evidence is ignorant, and closed minded.
bodog said:
I don't think most steels would shatter shaving wood. There are considerations to be had depending on use, though. It seems most people probably don't need a lot of toughness in smaller blades. Some people do. I saw a dude pounding on hardened bar of REX 121 and it took quite a bit for it to break. Much less than some other steels, but it didn't shatter with the slightest hit. Gotta be realistic in your needs. Maybe in Duane's life he's found easy to sharpen, tough steels to be what works for him. If so, that's cool. He doesn't need to get everyone thinking like him though. To a lot of people carrying huge choppers makes as much sense as carrying thin fillet knives. There's a happy medium and a lot of this is more or less academic. Put most cutlery grade steels in most knife designs and I think most people would find a way to make them work.
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