A problem with the GEC #73 and blade play ... and gaps... *Problem solved*

Humppa

Humppa

Joined
Jul 25, 2010
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Hi guys!

I EDCed my #73 Beaver Tail for a couple of days now. And I really like it very much. Before I did, it had to take a rest without using :(

But I came with me for about a week and did EDC typical jobs. Opening packages, the mail, slicing an apple and other food preps. Nothing more and nothing less.

Yesterday I realized that there´s some blade play at that knife. Holding it against daylight, a little gap was at the liners. The sun shine through. But today there was a large gap between pivot pin and middle pin (I hope you know what I mean). The blade play got worse. No it wobbles like a cow-tail (as we say here in Germany).

Here´s a pic - daylight through the liner and the backspring.

IMG_1698.jpg


IMG_1697.jpg


It has the same gap on the other liner, but I couldn´t catch it with my camera.

Do you guys know, what to do? Can I fix it up my self or should I send it back. After only days of using it in normal EDC tasks the gap got bigger and the blade play was worse than the day before.

Kind regards
Andi
 
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I'm sure there are steps you could take to try and remedy it yourself but I'm not the one who knows it well enough to advise you.

I have had a similar problem with my #72 lockback. It had some minor play when I first got it but not anything that I was concerned about. The play has gotten more significant lately and now exists in both directions. Like your case it's not a knife I'm using for hard work or putting through any great stress, so it makes me think the construction just wasn't as tight as it needed to be from the start.
 
Hi Andi,

I would be willing to bet its from the wood in a way. The only 73 I have had issues with like this is my bloodred 73. Sometimes the bone warps so much from moisture and temp changes that it bends the entire frame/liners to the point the blade is off center and hitting one of the liners. I don't know a lot about the type of wood on your knife but I have a feeling it could be warping the liners.

As for the blade play, as long as there is room at the pivot to compress the bolsters/liners tighter to the backspring and tang of the knife then you can fix it. If the tang is simply too thin you may not. The first step to try would be squeesing it in a vice. You can wrap the bolsters in leather or use slabs of micarta etc to keep the teeth from digging into the bolsters. If you can compress it back snug with no blade play then you NEED to peen the pin to keep it from looseing right back up. If you have an anvil and small metal working hammers you will be able to easily do this. If you put a small amount of tape on the anvil it will take less skill to keep from scratching the bolster on it. With a good eye and control you should be able to peen the pin very smooth and tight without damaging the bolster. If you get any light scratches just do a satin finish at 320 and follow it up with a buffer and it will bring it right back to a mirror finish. Nickel silver is really easy to work.

Good luck my friend.

Kevin
 
Btw, if you try to fix it yourself don't forget to flush/clean the joint VERY well before squeezing it together :)
 
Kevin gave a good remedy but when you squeeze those bolsters together, do it lightly a tiny bit at a time, check it, and do it a tiny bit again until you get it right.
 
Thank you, Nate, Ed and Kevin!

The replies are really helpful. Especially yours, Kevin. :) Though I don´t have an anvil. Maybe it could be ok doing the job on an old wooden block, I use for splitting wood in winter. My light and small plumbers-hammer is left at work. So I gonna get it on Monday. Before that, I gonna clean the knife in ultrasoundbath for getting any dust or dirt out of the pivot.

Kind regards
Andi
 
I'm not sure but i would think is better to use something made of steel instead of wood to peen the pin, even if it ain't an anvil. Good luck man.
 
Not seen anything of this sort on any of my 73s I've got half a dozen I believe.

Very unwelcome news. Think it's a pivot problem which worsens the gap in the brass liner. Sending it back is an immense drag, but it might be the best solution frankly.

Regards, will
 
You need steel Andi.

Its SUCH an easy fix if there is room to squeeze it together without binding the backspring between the bolsters/liners :)
 
Andi,
if you have calipers measure the spring when it is position up above the handle, then measure the tang of the blade. If the blade is more than about .001" thinner than the spring you may not be able to remove all of the play.

I have tightened up a few slipjoint knives, and a Buck 110. As stated, you will need an anvil that is harder than wood. It needs to be at least as hard as the pin material, at least in my experience. If you have a vice you can make an make shift anvil by putting a spare hammer into a vice, and then using that hammer's face as your anvil. Alternately, you can use the poll end of an axe or maul, or really any scrap piece of smooth steel you have handy. If you don't have a vise, well, if you have a hatchet or axe you can sink it into a chunk of wood to hold it still, then use it just as described previously.
 
Andi, can you see the pin on the bolster, and if so has it dropped below the level of the bolster surface?

Eric
 
stevomiller said:
Andi,
if you have calipers measure the spring when it is position up above the handle, then measure the tang of the blade. If the blade is more than about .001" thinner than the spring you may not be able to remove all of the play.
Click to expand...

That's a good tip. Makes sense to measure the parts. For curiosity I checked my 72 and found the tang at a little over .109" and the spring was a little over .110". The margin over on each was close but a smidge heavier on the spring, so at best the difference would be .001".
 
I had a GEC model 72 that had some lateral play. I sent it back to GEC to get it fixed. It came back fine, but the repair did take some time, about 5 weeks.
I'd recommend sending it to them. They will fix it up and you can be sure that the knife won't be damaged in the process.
 
Hi guys!

I just looked at the knife very well. The blade is exactely as broad as the spring. So maybe the wobbling should be able to get fixed.

When I held the knife against the light - I could see pivot pin, even pretty good. :(

The thing with the axe in a block and use it as a anvil is very good! Thank you. I have several axes, hatchets and whatever. When I understand you guys the correct way. Cleaning the knife very well. Using the anvil (axe in a block) and a little hammer are the right tools. Wraping around the bolster an old leather belt to protect the knife. Use the hammer very lightly. So that the pivot pin will get closer into the whole knife.

What I could say, the center pin (now I know the word) is bombproof. It seems to be flaw at the pivot spring.

Thank you guys, for the help!! I gonna get the small hammer tomorrow. I don´t wanna do it with the big carpenters hammer, which is built for 10" nails ;) I think it´s too heavy.

Kind regards
Andi
 
Andy,

I use the leather around the bolster for when I compress it together in the vice.

When peening the pin tight I do NOT have leather around anything. I just held the knife with the pin flat against the anvil and struck the other side of the pin with the hammers. I peened from both sides.

Compressing it in a vice first made it easy for a hobby guy like myself to get it set right.

I have done it on my 85, a 73 and a buck 703 colt. It worked like a charm and nothing has worked loose since.

Kevin
 
Hi Kevin!

Thank you... I gonna try it out tomorrow or the following days and let you guys know, if it worked :)

Kind regards
Andi
 
Good luck Andi! Very smooth and well finished hammers will help a lot. Also if you use an axe in a stump as an anvil you may want to file a flat spot very smooth. :)
 
Hopefully, you're going to pad the bolsters between two pieces of leather or soft cloth before you take a hammer to them or squeeze them in a vice Andi. Remember gentle/easy does it and only a bit at a time.
 
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