Advice need on what angle to put on the frame lock

I might be new in knives, but I've been working on different things for long time, like gun smithing, autos, earthquake proofing houses and all that. I can tell you from years of experience you CANNOT judge the quality of the tool by the cost.

When I first started earthquake proofing, I bought a set of 18V Dewalt set because of the big name. That's the WORST quality tool, even their drill bits were bad. After one house, I gave up, I bought a set of Ryobi 18V for cheap. You should see how I abused the driver. You talking about driving 5/16 and 3/8 hex screws of 4" or longer. Be that I drill a hole first, still driving the big screw in is tough. When it runs out of power, I kept squeezing and turning the whole driver while it's still grunting. IT SURVIVED 4 MORE HOUSES!!! Still working. Even the battery still survive!!! The Ryobi set was like 1/4 the cost of the Dewalt.

Knives are just TOOLS. Some of the knives I bought is not exactly cheap, for tools, when get to $60 or $70, brands like Steel Will, Kizer, Kubey, Off-Grid are NOT consider cheap by any measure. It's crazy to spend hundreds for a knife. AND you have expensive knife that is lose and wiggle. I never bought one close to that bad even they are CHEAP.

None of the folding knives came sharp at all. I have to sharpen every single one of them to cutting strips of paper with ease. I can tell you the SHARPEST knife is the cheapest Laurisilva that is $26. It's still D2 blade. It's the heaviest duty with 0.14" thick blade and the frame is 0.06" thick steel plate. Other than Steel Will Warbot, this is the heaviest duty of all my knives. Put it in another way, I carry knife for self defense and I practice knife fight. I carry knife only for self defense. I would trust my life with that cheap knife than a lot of the more expensive ones after opening it up, studied the design and construction. Of cause Steel Will Warbot is better, but it's 6oz, much bigger. For the size and weight, I consider the Laurisilva the best.
 
AND you have expensive knife that is lose and wiggle. I never bought one close to that bad even they are CHEAP.
"kitchen knife" was 38.00 delivered, the most I ever paid, as most kitchen knives are hospice/ thrift/ scond hand store finds. 38.00US is top of my "inexpensive range" for grandkids now. Actually bought for the oldest grand son, but 5 minutes in hand, I knew he was never going to see it, unless I screwed n glued blade as "fixed" blade...
Of cause Steel Will Warbot is better,
Glad to hear that, looks like 69 bucks from big river. I went and revisited your thread (thread no longer open) where you chose the Warbot, so your comparison of Laurisilva and Warbot is valued, and mirrors my own experience with folders at these price points.
The Ryobi set was like 1/4 the cost of the Dewalt.
I love "Project Farm" on utubes for this vary reason, down to earth, simple elegantly engineered tests. Never really suprised, I'm old some days, but great content:thumbsup:
 
I did not read every post in this thread but would like to point out the misconception that late lockup means safer lockup. For that, I fail to see the reason for the OP to modify the framelock of the knife. I had a framelock folder (of a famous brand) with mid/late lockup that accidentally folded and cut me very badly, while I have multiple framelock folders with early lockup that won't move even a tiny bit from spine tapping/whacking.
 
I did not read every post in this thread but would like to point out the misconception that late lockup means safer lockup. For that, I fail to see the reason for the OP to modify the framelock of the knife. I had a framelock folder (of a famous brand) with mid/late lockup that accidentally folded and cut me very badly, while I have multiple framelock folders with early lockup that won't move even a tiny bit from spine tapping/whacking.
It doesn't make sense, there must be other factor that cause the line lock to fail. You have to consider how thick is the liner, if the liner is thin, then it's easier to bend it out. Also, if you look at the drawing in the first post, if the angle of the liner is grind to slant in opposite way from (b), you can make the liner slide to the left and unlock if you apply force. That's the reason I even make this post to talk about the angle.

Is spine tapping like what I did to hit the back of the blade(the opposite side from the sharp edge) on hard object? I tested mine hitting the cement step of the house. I hit it hard enough to chipped the cement some and both did not fail or even change the contact.

Is spine tapping the best way to test?
 
We're talking about framelock not linerlock. Anyway, you're preaching a flawed theory but feel free to modify your lock.
 
We're talking about framelock not linerlock. Anyway, you're preaching a flawed theory but feel free to modify your lock.
frame lock is better.

I am not preaching any theory, the thread is a question. But don't look like anyone knows here. So I just depends on spine tapping to tell. This is not exactly rocket science.
 
Last edited:
.....You have to consider how thick is the liner, if the liner is thin, then it's easier to bend it out.
That's not all there is to it. There are several factors at play.


Also, if you look at the drawing in the first post, if the angle of the liner is grind to slant in opposite way from (b), you can make the liner slide to the left and unlock if you apply force.
This isn't necessarily true.

Is spine tapping like what I did to hit the back of the blade(the opposite side from the sharp edge) on hard object? I tested mine hitting the cement step of the house. I hit it hard enough to chipped the cement some and both did not fail or even change the contact.

Is spine tapping the best way to test?
Spine whacking isn't really the be all/end all test of anything.


frame lock is better.
Based on what? This is a blanket statement with no context and still isn't necessarily true.
 
That's not all there is to it. There are several factors at play.
Of cause, those are just some.
This isn't necessarily true.
I can tell you from the wear mark on the liner of at least two other knives, The angle is like (b). If you have different opinion, please state it.
Spine whacking isn't really the be all/end all test of anything.
So what other test you suggest. I kept asking and nobody answer.
Based on what? This is a blanket statement with no context and still isn't necessarily true.
It's thicker, also when you squeeze the knife, it will push the liner in more and become more secure.
You practice knife fight that use the knife, not just carry in pocket? When you are swing or shanking, some time I can feel the blade is a little loose, but when I release the grip to check, it's tight. This mean the grip might push the liner towards the right side and loosen the blade. You won't have that problem with frame lock.


Don't disagree, put in your opinion.
 
Of cause, those are just some.

I can tell you from the wear mark on the liner of at least two other knives, The angle is like (b). If you have different opinion, please state it.

So what other test you suggest. I kept asking and nobody answer.

It's thicker, also when you squeeze the knife, it will push the liner in more and become more secure.
You practice knife fight that use the knife, not just carry in pocket? When you are swing or shanking, some time I can feel the blade is a little loose, but when I release the grip to check, it's tight. This mean the grip might push the liner towards the right side and loosen the blade. You won't have that problem with frame lock.


Don't disagree, put in your opinion.
I'm not sure you understand how this works. You're the one making vague blanket statements using terms like "better/best". I just pointed out the things you are claiming aren't necessarily true in all cases (or any case for that matter). Just because you say so doesn't make it true.

I'm not sure you understand how frame/liner locks work in regards to lock contact, lock engagement, interface angle and spring tension to be making some of the claims you're making. It seems you're just parroting things you've heard or read.

And knife fighting?........really? I don't knife fight or practice knife fighting at all, let alone with a folder. There aren't any winners in a knife fight.
 
I'm not sure you understand how this works. You're the one making vague blanket statements using terms like "better/best". I just pointed out the things you are claiming aren't necessarily true in all cases (or any case for that matter). Just because you say so doesn't make it true.

I'm not sure you understand how frame/liner locks work in regards to lock contact, lock engagement, interface angle and spring tension to be making some of the claims you're making. It seems you're just parroting things you've heard or read.

And knife fighting?........really? I don't knife fight or practice knife fighting at all, let alone with a folder. There aren't any winners in a knife fight.
I am not sure you understand how any of them work, you have NO KNOWLEDGE that you can demonstrate. If you think what I said is not true, tell me what you consider is true. If you cannot even put anything out, WHO ARE YOU TO SAY ANYTHING.

Do YOU understand how frame/line lock works? If you know, explain how it should instead keep repeating that I don't know. tell me what you know.

You don't know knife fight, you EDC for style? To show off? You better NOT. Nothing is WORST than pulling out a knife and you don't know how to use it. It's dangerous for you. You have NO IDEA whether line lock or frame lock is good for in knife fight? You really missed the very important point.

Come on, tell me what you know or just SHUT UP.
 
You guys think it's funny? If you ever get attacked for no reason, then you tell me. I don't need a knife to show off, it's small ball, a few hundred dollars is NOTHING. I never into knife until all the attack on older Asians. This is ONLY the back up only.

You carry a knife, you better LEARN and practice. Or else, do NOT ever pull your knife out. Nothing is worst to cut yourself, or worst, knife being taken from you and use against you.

You buy a few hundred dollars knife to cut fruit and sandwiches? I thought this is tinkling and modification forum here, no body know anything in mechanical design?
 
I am wasting my time here. Nobody seems to know design and mechanical. Just carry by the name like women buying brand name handbags. You people can laugh, it is. What a shame.
 
You guys think it's funny? If you ever get attacked for no reason, then you tell me. I don't need a knife to show off, it's small ball, a few hundred dollars is NOTHING. I never into knife until all the attack on older Asians. This is ONLY the back up only.

You carry a knife, you better LEARN and practice. Or else, do NOT ever pull your knife out. Nothing is worst to cut yourself, or worst, knife being taken from you and use against you.
I carry a handgun sport
 
You guys think it's funny? If you ever get attacked for no reason, then you tell me. I don't need a knife to show off, it's small ball, a few hundred dollars is NOTHING. I never into knife until all the attack on older Asians. This is ONLY the back up only.

You carry a knife, you better LEARN and practice. Or else, do NOT ever pull your knife out. Nothing is worst to cut yourself, or worst, knife being taken from you and use against you.

You buy a few hundred dollars knife to cut fruit and sandwiches? I thought this is tinkling and modification forum here, no body know anything in mechanical design?

I use FIXED BLADE because frame/line lock are the WORST for self defense...too mechanical for my taste.

Why LEARN and practice when you can BUY a huge FIXED BLADE insteasd?
 
I use FIXED BLADE because frame/line lock are the WORST for self defense...too mechanical for my taste.

Why LEARN and practice when you can BUY a huge FIXED BLADE insteasd?
Not legal to conceal, too big to carry on the belt. You don't go look for fight everyday, just in case you ever need it.
 
Back
Top