Advice on Stoutly Built Field-use Folder

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Jul 30, 2008
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I'm in the market for a hard (but sane) use folder, must be a stainless blade, very stout lock, max $500, used ok. My requirements got long, but hope they are clear and narrow things down:

1. Frame Lock: preferred as 1st choice, one where initial lockup out of the box is well behind the blade tang (I don’t want to modify or “wear it in” before I get good lockup). The Umnumzaan is a benchmark here.
a. Other Locks: I’m open minded about other strong, hard-to-accidentally-unlock offerings, like a well designed thick liner lock that is fully behind the blade tang.​
b. Lock must not be easily/accidentally defeated in use. Don’t mind taking a glove off to close the knife. But it absolutely can’t accidentally come unlocked. (please hold the fixed blade recommendations… just not what I want to carry since I’ll be scaling caged ladders and that’s one more thing that can snag and fall… perhaps on someone.)​

2. Prefer a standard-ish drop or clip point blade shape with a reasonably sharp but stout point and definitely some belly, (e.g. no pure Tanto's need apply). Recurve at back of blade is preferred but not an absolute.

3. symmetrically ground blade
a. No chisel grinds​
b. e.g. not the Emerson CQC8 which I love for personal defense but have to deal with asymmetrical final edge bevel which is a demerit in daily utility work.​

4. 3-1/2" to 3-3/4” blade is sweetspot. A 4” would have to be well designed and stout. A stout 3-1/4” could be enough.

5. Must have a thumb stud for opening, prefer a grippy stud on both sides but not an absolute (I’m right handed). Spyderholes, round or oval or otherwise are ok as long as there are also thumb studs. A flipper as an alternative is a big plus if well designed and not a nuisance in my pocket, especially as the flipper makes a more secure “guard” for index finger. I could be talked into using flipper as sole opening mechanism for the “perfect” knife for this application.

6. Want a good "guard" configuration of handle (plus flipper) so index finger has a reasonably deep recess to prevent knife sliding forward in a thrusting type cut. An ergonomic handle that's grippy (machined and bead blasted G10 or micarta would be good). Doesn't have to be pretty.

7. Prefer option of tip down carry for safety, which reminds me a strong detent that holds the blade firmly in the handle when closed is a big plus.

8. Price Range ($500 max): A thoughtfully used custom would be fine. I'll be carrying it daily on the largest construction site currently underway in the Americas (1st new refinery to be built in 30 years, $9 Billion job).
The expensive Terzuola frame locks are out (unless well used, and cheap, and meets requirements).
An overbuilt $200 production folder would be great... but I'd go as high as (gulp) $500 for a used custom or semi-custom.
$700 is too much to lose (I am unlikely to truly damage the knife from abuse, but it could get dropped repeatedly… ah, if only there was a stainless 3V…)

Folders that I own that come close:
• The Umnumzaan comes close. Just not quite stout enough blade thickness and grinds (hollow) and prefer a machined and blasted G10 or Micarta type grip on one at least one side for secure grip. Lockup super, love the stiff pivot with thumbstuds to resist lateral loads. Mechanically, I love this knife. (a flat ground Umnumzaan with large G10 inserts interframe/inlaid in milled pockets on both sides would be a good target).

• The Acies that I own has a frame lock that doesn’t have much friction behind the tang (maybe angles aren’t quite right), doesn’t have G10 on one side, and I’m skeptical that the “Free Lunch” with ZDP-189 at Rc 64-66 will result in a blade more likely to chip than bend. I do like the deep riding pocket clip and big flat blade grind and tip is acceptable for this application (if not stout). Blade to handle ratio is excellent.

• The ZeroTolerance 0300ST Strider / Onion comes close, the recurve is fine, but blade is too “tall”, and so the angle on the point is too obtuse for daily utility work… the big belly is nice but more than needed, and the recurve is great for cutting say 3/8” manila rope in hand.

• The Emerson CQC8 (4”) and Horseman (3.5”) comes close. It has a great, secure grip, plenty of index finger “guard” w/o a flipper, but the liner lock isn’t totally stout, Pivot isn’t so stout, and the asymmetrical final edge bevel is fine for defense, but a minor annoyance for daily utility work.

• Benchmade 710 Axis in ATS-34: lockup good, a bit long for thin blade stock at 4”, but good blade design, just too thin… not as rugged in pivot and stiff laterally (bending) overall as I’d like. If it had a beefier blade, pivot, and overall build and had S30V or black coated 3V, would be a good choice.

• I have a used RJ Martin Havoc on order that might fit the bill… don’t have it yet.

• I own a carbon fiber Benchmade Griptilian. Carbon helps stiffness but pivot still not stout, blade design is acceptable overall, just not quite beefy enough all around. Plus it’s black coated CPM M4 and this knife will assuredly be sweat upon by salty stanky sweat.


Candidates… a short list, where I could use your help:

1. Eyeballing the Hinderer X18. His rounded belly but beefed up tip grind looks like I could keep a sharp point but still have a stout grind that could stand some reasonable (not insane) abuse (I know it's a folder, so won't do stupid prying).

2. Strider has a good reputation as being stout, but I haven’t handled one yet.

I told you it was short.

Sidebar: I'm also going to carry a well chosen Leatherman type multitool on my belt suitable for electricians, as a side bar, and that should have a small blade I can keep razor sharp for delicate cutting, but will find that elsewhere as I evaluate options and tool selection. Point: I'll take a stout, rational, thick blade with a flat grind left thick at the edge. (not sure anyone will offer a hollow ground knife like this, but have seen them in years past done with a 10" or 12" contact wheel)

==> What can you guys recommend I take a look at?
 
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The Strider SnG or SmF would be your ideal knives other than the opening hole that you implied you don't want.

In your description of what you want you basically described the SnG to a tee.
 
The two that immediately come to mind are:
1. Cold Steel Recon 1 clip point
2. Combative Edge M1.

-nate
 
Hey Rob,

The XM-18 sounds like it would fit your criteria quite well, though they might be a little difficult to get at a reasonable price. I don't recall seeing a budget in the list. My other thought was a Strider SMF/SnG, but you specified that you didn't want any hole openers. A strider AR sounds like it might fit the bill. You may also consider getting either an Emerson CQC8/Horseman and having it modded with a thicker liner lock or framelock and put a V grind on the edge, if you don't mind voiding the warranty.

There doesn't appear to be any good reason to think that ZDP-189, if produced by a reputable maker, will excessively chip. It's been on the market for long enough IMO to show whether it will chip excessively. Yuna Knives is a good example of this.
 
Hey Rob,

The XM-18 sounds like it would fit your criteria quite well, though they might be a little difficult to get at a reasonable price. I don't recall seeing a budget in the list. My other thought was a Strider SMF/SnG, but you specified that you didn't want any hole openers. A strider AR sounds like it might fit the bill. You may also consider getting either an Emerson CQC8/Horseman and having it modded with a thicker liner lock or framelock and put a V grind on the edge, if you don't mind voiding the warranty.

There doesn't appear to be any good reason to think that ZDP-189, if produced by a reputable maker, will excessively chip. It's been on the market for long enough IMO to show whether it will chip excessively. Yuna Knives is a good example of this.

:thumbup: or Yuna, if decide to go with ZDP-189. I believe some of his blades are ZDP-189 laminated in ATS-34, though.
 
Wow... lots of great hits already. Thanks guys! Awesome.

A hole opener is ok as long as there is also a thumb stud...and the blade cross sectional area (i.e. strength) hasn't been compromised by size of hole.

A used custom at the $500 price point is about the most I'd spend for this application.

Any additional info on these would be appreciated:
1. Combative Edge M1, it's quality of construction, pivot and liner lockup, and blade thickness would be welcomed.
2. Striders blade thickness, tip thickness
3. Demko custom... tell me more, including price points, and experience w/ Triad lock.
 
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A hole opener is ok as long as there is also a thumb stud...

A used custom at the $500 price point is about the most I'd spend for this application.

I would go with the Strider SnG then. :thumbup:

There are other great options, but you wanted a frame lock.
 
:thumbup: or Yuna, if decide to go with ZDP-189. I believe some of his blades are ZDP-189 laminated in ATS-34, though.

Yes, I don't think any of his ZDP-189 blades are full ZDP. All of them are sandwiched between ATS-34. But the concern was about chipping, so that shouldn't be a factor. Yuna Knives is definitely a great option.
 
I've been doing tests with my blades and the ones performing the best (I don't stab fridges or bash my knives with sledge hammers) are the Spyderco Gayle Bradley, the BM 710 and the ZT 350.
The ZT 350 has surprised me quite a bit... that baby is a workin' mofo, for sure.
The Gayle Bradley is the clear winner in my collection.
Doesn't fit your specs, perhaps, but I thought I'd throw it out there.
Some of my cheaper blades are definitely doing better than my expensive ones.
The BM 760 is a beaut, but I want to send 'er in for a regrind and retemper.


me - my 2 cents
 
Hey Rob,
You may also consider getting either an Emerson CQC8/Horseman and having it modded with a thicker liner lock or framelock and put a V grind on the edge, if you don't mind voiding the warranty.

Very Interesting idea... who is the go-to guy for such mods?
 
The ZT550 is a serious contender... a production piece should keep price down out of the Strider-o-sphere... and the only thing that looks a bit questionable for my particular application is the thinly tapering grind out to the tip. Still, a promising looking design if executed well by ZT (Kershaw).

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=747460&highlight=zt550
 

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Try a Sebenza or Umnumzaan you're not going to get much better than those. I would also recommend a Strider SNG. Also there are many knifemakers building frame locks for $500 and under. Check some of the well known web sites like True North Knives, Robertsons Custom Cutlery, or Arizona Custom Knives, etc. Good luck hunting. There are more good frame locks available now than any time in history.
 
3. Demko custom... tell me more, including price points, and experience w/ Triad lock.
$450 with a G10 backspacer (+$30 for Ti) Standard for the AD10 I believe is 3.5" cutting edge, there is wiggle room. You can get .050 or .100 Ti liners. He does hollow grinds on a 14" wheel. Don't have a custom yet, but have had 3 Cold Steels with the Tri-ad. No complaints, takes an act of Congress to get the lockbar to clear the notch, so accidental unlockings are gonna be tough. I take it you've seen the various youtube videos of abuse & testing.
 
The HEST folder is interesting, but in my (not so?) humble opinion, it has a design flaw.

That notch they cut into the blade cuts through a big fraction of the "thick" part of the blade spine, and perhaps worse than a Spyderhole, that sharp discontinuity (v notch) will create a very weak spot in that blade, a stress riser in the steel. That's a design killer. They may well rethink that design when the broken blade returns begin...

Just another good example of good intentions (trying to make the knife blade itself into a multitool) having unintended consequences of injecting a serious design flaw that most any mechanical or metallurgical engineer, machinist, or tool & die maker would snicker at... introducing a stress riser and weak spot, and then encouraging people to put a load on that spot by using the "Thumb grip/bottle opener/ pot lifter blade notch" as designed, but worse and fairly likely as a wrench or otherwise. Any strong lateral / bending load on that blade will result in a case study... I predict it'll break starting at the lowest point of the notch on top of spine and break right through to the little choil at base of cutting edge (the other stress riser).

Just re-read what I wrote ... kinda sarcastic... But I don't think it's wrong either.
 

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That notch they cut into the blade goes through the "thick" part of the blade spine, and perhaps worse than a Spyderhole, that sharp discontinuity (v notch) will create a very weak spot in that blade, a stress riser in the steel. That's a design killer. They may well rethink that design when the broken blade returns begin...
I think you would have to do some heavy prying to break that blade, even more to break a Spyderco hole. I'm pretty sure Spyderco gets much more blades breaking at the tip than around the hole.
If you're going to do prying and not worry about cutting geometry than the XM-18 is for you. Its designed by a firefighter for those kind of duties.
 
Sounds to me like you should check out the ZT 0200. The blade's not as tall as the 0300 and the thumbstuds are easier to use. It's also a nice open back design so it's easier to clean out. Liner lock but it's pretty thick.
 
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