Another rehandling job

I'd put it on a buffer wheel before you go any further. It might shine up real pretty without a clear coat. I'm concerned about the clear coat adhering and not peeling off over time.

Stabilized wood looks very flat but throw it on a buffer and it shines like a brand new penny. Nothing to lose and everything to gain.
 
I hadn't considered that... I guess I'll finish shaping the handle and shine it up as much as possible before I do anything to it. I think I have to seal it somehow, though, otherwise the exposed cotton will wick up sweat and whatnot.
 
After some more polishing


I can't get the back end of the handle to shine up like the front, but I'll keep at it. Here's the whole thing. I might thin the handle out a bit more towards the back, but it's pretty comfortable as it is right now, and I like how the wider handle lets me chop.



I read the proper way to seal micarta is by dunking it in tung oil, so I'll do that once I'm done. I'll still have to polish the copper bolster up too, it's really scratched up.
 
I had some mineral oil handy so I used that instead of tung oil. It darkened the handle a bit and made the pattern "pop" a bit more, but it doesn't take a high shine anymore. Which is probably why you're supposed to use tung or linseed oil.



I used some JB Weld steel reinforced epoxy to seal off the end of the bolster, but some of it leaked onto the handle while it dried. I'll have to do something about that.
 
I ran this guy through the paces this weekend. I did my usual test of batoning through fire wood, then chopping at it, then batoning some more, repeat. The handle felt as solid and sturdy as a rock and showed no signs of loosening or cracking. It chopped just like you'd expect a jungle knife to, meaning it cuts deep but binds and doesn't chip wood out like an axe. It's great for splitting firewood, though. It only took a couple whacks to split a piece.

Then I recalled a video I saw of someone pounding the tip of a full tang thai e-nep through a dead tree like a nail using a big rock as a hammer. It seemed like a good way break a hidden tang knife. I didn't have a big rock handy so I used another piece of firewood as the hammer. I only got about half way through a piece of firewood before it just wouldn't go any deeper. The fact that I couldn't pound it all the way through like in the video was probably due more to the hardness of the firewood and lack of a good pounding rock rather than the quality of the blade or handle. It took awhile to pry and bang it back loose again, but both the handle and tip of the blade were totally undamaged. The blade flexed a little when I was prying it out of the firewood but it didn't permanently bend or deform.

I also used the knife to carve a comfortable handle for my firewood hammer. It was comfortable and easy to control, and sliced through the wood very easily. I'm going to thin the edge out a bit towards the handle, but even with the factory edge it performed more than satisfactorily.

Lastly I did some "head to head" comparisons between this and my KLVUK because in my mind they were both roughly the same dimensions. After setting them side by side, though, the KLVUK is significantly longer and wider, and probably 4 times thicker. So comparing them is apples and oranges, but I did it anyway.



Obviously the KLVUK was a much better chopper. And obviously the lighter parang was a little easier to use for wood carving tasks but not by much. For splitting firewood the parang was much more effective than the thicker KLVUK, no surprise their either. The blades on both are differentially hardened spring steel, so both are virtually indestructible. The wooden handle on the KLVUK was more shock absorbent than the micarta on the parang. The KLVUK is easily the more capable blade if you're willing to carry the weight, but the parang will get the job done too.

I'm going to thin the handle out a bit more towards the end and put a final finish on it. The handle looked grimy when I was finished with it, so I'm going to try sealing it with superglue rather than oil. If I don't like the results I'll just sand it off.
 
Be sure and clean it well first before finish coat. Acetone I found to be the best. If you have epoxy it would work better than CA. Great review! I thought that parang was a bit thicker than it is and surprises me that it batons so well. Id be afraid of bending the blade. Did the epoxy finally harden up or is it still a bit soft?
I'm going to thin the handle out a bit more towards the end and put a final finish on it. The handle looked grimy when I was finished with it, so I'm going to try sealing it with superglue rather than oil. If I don't like the results I'll just sand it off.
 
The epoxy's quite hard now. When I hammered the tip of the parang stuck in the firewood I had to bend and twist and bang on it like crazy to get it out, and neither the blade nor the handle showed any signs of bending. If it was 440c the tip of the blade certainly would have snapped off at the very least. I think spring steel is pretty indestructible. I have no reservations about abusing this blade.

Do you think an epoxy finish would be more durable than CA? I read epoxy will wear off quickly whereas the superglue seeps into the exposed fiber ends and seals them.

I'm also beginning to think about making a better sheath for it. I have some surplus briefcase leather laying around which should do nicely. I think I'm going to make something similar to the Bayley knife sheath.

032-7.jpg
 
Do you think an epoxy finish would be more durable than CA? I read epoxy will wear off quickly whereas the superglue seeps into the exposed fiber ends and seals them.
You may try a spot with CA and see if it helps the fibers disappear. From my experience in surfboard repairs I have found that it is almost impossible to make them totally disappear. I would use epoxy since it is more compatible with epoxy. You can sand it and polish however you like and if you sand through it you can add and sand again. Others may have other suggestions but if it were my project I would hang the knife from the blade and just brush epoxy over the whole handle and let it drip off the butt end. When its cured just sand off the teardrop on the bottom and polish the whole thing. If you use slow curing epoxy it may be self leveling enough that you may not even need to sand most of the handle. If you have the casting resin you could just dip it up to the bolster and let it drip dry and cure but it would waste a lot of resin. Many ways to do it but CA on top of epoxy may not be very durable since it is more brittle and less scratch resistant. Dont forget the Acetone! It makes a huge difference in adhesion. It allows you to feather the edge to microscopic thinness where you cannot even detect boundaries.

I'm also beginning to think about making a better sheath for it. I have some surplus briefcase leather laying around which should do nicely. I think I'm going to make something similar to the Bayley knife sheath.
I like your sheath idea! Im thinkng the same thing with a traditional Columbian machete im redoing.
 
And it might help get rid of the mineral oil and improve the chances of good adhesion too.
 
Good point. I read you can use windex to draw the oil out since it's only on the surface. I'm going to file the handle down a bit more before I finish it, so that should get rid of the oil too.

I'm going to go with an epoxy finish. If I don't like it I'll sand it off.
 
.. Then I recalled a video I saw of someone pounding the tip of a full tang thai e-nep through a dead tree like a nail using a big rock as a hammer. It seemed like a good way break a hidden tang knife. I didn't have a big rock handy so I used another piece of firewood as the hammer. I only got about half way through a piece of firewood before it just wouldn't go any deeper. The fact that I couldn't pound it all the way through like in the video was probably due more to the hardness of the firewood and lack of a good pounding rock rather than the quality of the blade or handle. It took awhile to pry and bang it back loose again, but both the handle and tip of the blade were totally undamaged. The blade flexed a little when I was prying it out of the firewood but it didn't permanently bend or deform ..
Hi Blue, I guess the Golok Rembau is not exactly made for heavy chopping, battoning and prying!
The specs of that particular Golok is actually meant for local users to do cutting and light chopping!
I don't think Nadir ordered those Golok Rembau and Parang Lading Pendek from Bidor with specs to meet such a heavy duty test review!
You just made me chuckle Blue .. it's just like sending a middleweight boxer to challenge a heavyweight boxer in a heavyweight match :D

Thanks for sharing the reviews with us all Blue :thumbup:

mohd
 
nice job on that kerala.

here's another one of mine with a full tang handle for comparison.

View attachment 400549


Thanks. I don't know if you've ever used yours, but I found the steel on mine to be quite good. It took a bit of effort to sharpen it, but holds an edge well.

mohd said:
You just made me chuckle Blue .. it's just like sending a middleweight boxer to challenge a heavyweight boxer in a heavyweight match

I know I was a bit abusive on the little guy, but I was more concerned with testing the strength of the handle rather than the strenght of the blade. I was worried the micarta might crack or come loose. My inspiration was watching the tests Aranyik does on his e-neps. Specifically the tests he does at the 0:30 mark, where he hammers it through a tree with a rock. But I guess there's a difference between nailing a knife through an old dead tree and nailing a knife through a hardened piece of firewood :)

[video=youtube;qY9EnUij8cg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qY9EnUij8cg&list=PLS55sCBdgG_Lr0BG42MgwVtogsr0UEF5J&index=2[/video]

Either way, both the blade and the handle endured my abuses with no problems. It's a tough little knife! I used it to trim a few branches off the Christmas tree this weekend, which is probably more in line with the kind of work it was designed for.
 
Thanks! I still need to put a handle on that second parang. I tried using my straw method to make a tang from JB Weld Steel Reinforced Epoxy (sounds good, right?) It ended up being very brittle, I snapped it off easily. I'd rather have a slightly flexy core than a brittle one, so I'm going to do it again with the casting epoxy. I'm also going to try to make a butt plate for this one. I'm going take a screw, put the largest washers I can find on the end (this will be the butt), and then put that screw in the end of the straw. I think somebody recommended this idea earlier in the thread.

The tang on the larger parang is far more hardened than on the smaller golok. I tried to scuff it up with a file so the epoxy bonds better, and the file slid right off.
 
Thanks. I don't know if you've ever used yours, but I found the steel on mine to be quite good. It took a bit of effort to sharpen it, but holds an edge well.
...
haven't used it, it's antique wall hanger, but i did resharpen the edge with some effort.

...I'd rather have a slightly flexy core than a brittle one, so I'm going to do it again with the casting epoxy. ...

i once tried mixing chopped up nylon paracord guts with epoxy resin to produce a more shock resistant goop to fill a crack in something. it seemed to somewhat dissolve into the resin and had the desired effect when it hardened.
 
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I wouldn't have used mine had it come with a handle like yours. I'd eventually like to get a nice complete one for "collectible" purposes.

The one antique knife I have that I'd love to use is my Bou-Saadi knife. I think you have one of these as well? I of course won't put it to use since it's so old, but it feels like it'd be very useful knife for outdoors and camp chores. I have another one on the way that's in a little better condition and includes a sheath.

 
yes, mine: the thimble on the scabbard end is not traditional, was added by someone before i got it ;)

View attachment 400575

also a collectable. they still make them of course. saw one for sale recently with the traditional scabbard , grip wrap, decorative blade, etc. , touted as a 'viking' knife. they are called 'khodmi' and come from the bou saadi region.

View attachment 400576
 
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Did it have an integral bolster? If I saw a recently made one that had a real usable blade rather than decorative, I'd definitely buy it.
 
i lost the url, it was a site that sold a lot of schlock knives with the occasional gem.
 
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