Anyone been with any strippers lately?

coolbreezy37 said:
Used to have a parkerized 1911, personally prefer a satin finish. But patina looks great on the rat.
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It's really weird how it turned out. I only used that stripper because it was leftover laying around. I expected it to leave behind a bare metal appearance but this was the result.
 
skyhorse said:
It's really weird how it turned out. I only used that stripper because it was leftover laying around. I expected it to leave behind a bare metal appearance but this was the result.
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Looks good though! I got a Busse with the tanker grey finish that I traded for on its way to me, and I want to strip the finish off and leave it bare metal.
 
skyhorse said:
It's really weird how it turned out. I only used that stripper because it was leftover laying around. I expected it to leave behind a bare metal appearance but this was the result.
Click to expand...
coolbreezy37 said:
Looks good though! I got a Busse with the tanker grey finish that I traded for on its way to me, and I want to strip the finish off and leave it bare metal.
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Thats a layer of decarb id highly suggest removing with a wire wheel or abbrasive... unless you like rusty steel lol. Force a proper patina and youll be good to go. Sr101 goes very dark when patinad with hot vinegar similar to the tone of the decarb
 
Does it see much use? Or any humid climate or moisture.. any sr101 ive left that layer on has turned orange in the sheath overnight . But i AM on the PNW coast.
 
Twoody said:
Does it see much use? Or any humid climate or moisture.. any sr101 ive left that layer on has turned orange in the sheath overnight . But i AM on the PNW coast.
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Nothing , it's been outdoors under a patio during rainstorms and no rust so far. So far I've only used it for slaying cardboard boxes.
 
Twoody said:
Does it see much use? Or any humid climate or moisture.. any sr101 ive left that layer on has turned orange in the sheath overnight . But i AM on the PNW coast.
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What caused your layer like that ? I figured mine was caused by the citrus acid in citrus strip.
 
Smarter people can explain better than I lol. Check this thread

what is decarb?

I've seen a few posts lately with hogs talking about getting rid of dimples and decarb. So what exactly is decarb? How does it happen? How does it affect the blade? Is it possible for a knife to come brand new from the factory with it? thanks so much Jack
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
 
Twoody said:
Smarter people can explain better than I lol. Check this thread

what is decarb?

I've seen a few posts lately with hogs talking about getting rid of dimples and decarb. So what exactly is decarb? How does it happen? How does it affect the blade? Is it possible for a knife to come brand new from the factory with it? thanks so much Jack
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
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Interesting , do you think it's decarb or could it be a deep patina from the strong acid in citrus strip stripper ? This knife has been sort of an ongoing project. :)
 
Twoody said:
Realistically... if it aint broke dont fix it imo. Lol if your having no issues i see no issue !
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Lol, that makes two of us. I expected the citrus strip to leave shiney bare metal behind but after a couple of hours in the hot Southwest Sun when I wiped off all the paint it was a grey color. I've gone beneath it in places from small scratches from a sharpening stone and so far no signs of any rust .
 
Stripped my Axe Hammer today. Same color as yours afterwards, skyhorse skyhorse , but used normal stripper ("Klean Strip").

Will send it to be bead-blasted.

Before Stripping:

i-rJmWdhD-X3.jpg



After Stripping:

i-BcGDf83-X3.jpg
 
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ferider said:
Stripped my Axe Hammer today. Same color as yours afterwards, skyhorse skyhorse , but used normal stripper ("Klean Strip").

Will send it to be bead-blasted.

Before Stripping:

i-rJmWdhD-X3.jpg



After Stripping:

i-BcGDf83-X3.jpg
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Very cool , you replaced the rivets with screws . I plan to change my scales a little too .When I got my knife a few years back , I instantly knew it would be a fun project. Someday I'll likely take steel wool and a little mineral oil to the blade. Shoot me a pic when you bead blast that one. :thumbsup:
 
Question for your stripping experts: when using a "normal" chemical stripper, like "Klean Strip" that I've been using above; how do you strip a SYKCO with Resin-C handle ? Does the stripper not affect the Resin-C ?

Thanks.
 
ferider said:
Question for your stripping experts: when using a "normal" chemical stripper, like "Klean Strip" that I've been using above; how do you strip a SYKCO with Resin-C handle ? Does the stripper not affect the Resin-C ?

Thanks.
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I've done this to a 711. The Klean strip is much less friendly to lungs eyes and non stainless steel sinks...... ask me how I know.....

In all honesty I didnt get any strip chemicals on the handle that I remember. I did use painter's tape to get as close to the handle as possible though with zero issues.

the color underneath is typical of a factory coated blade be it sr101 or INFI. theres always a darkish hue that the stripper doesnt grab.

That's what scotch brite pads and whitening toothpaste are for.
 
ferider said:
Question for your stripping experts: when using a "normal" chemical stripper, like "Klean Strip" that I've been using above; how do you strip a SYKCO with Resin-C handle ? Does the stripper not affect the Resin-C ?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Res c is unaffected by strippers
 
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