Anyone been with any strippers lately?

ferider said:
Thanks again !

I think, I like how this one came out today. :)

i-DFvLKtM-X3.jpg


i-MxbN5VZ-X3.jpg


Not sure if I should clean further. Seems just the right amount of character. What do you all think ?

Roland.
Click to expand...
use it and dont worry
 
ferider said:
Thanks again !

I think, I like how this one came out today. :)

i-DFvLKtM-X3.jpg


i-MxbN5VZ-X3.jpg


Not sure if I should clean further. Seems just the right amount of character. What do you all think ?

Roland.
Click to expand...
I just finished up my first strip attempt on this guys larger brother. I was running out of daylight so I snapped a quick phone pic.

I think it looks okay but I was not sure if I should focus in on those darker areas along the edge.
rGbnOeLh.jpg

Did you use the stripper over the logo or did you re-etch it first? I left the citri-strip off of that area until I could find the thread on etching.
Which if anyone has a link to I cannot seem to find it. I swear there was an in depth thread on stripping and etching but I have a learning disability
 
Thank you! I am in the same boat. This will definitely be a user, I just thought the etch looked fairly decent still and wondered if I needed to worry about it.
I really like how your's turned out, those beauty marks along the spine almost resemble stitches, pretty cool looking.
Cheers
 
tinfoil hat timmy said:
use it and dont worry
Click to expand...

BIGDORK said:
I just finished up my first strip attempt on this guys larger brother. I was running out of daylight so I snapped a quick phone pic.

I think it looks okay but I was not sure if I should focus in on those darker areas along the edge.
rGbnOeLh.jpg

Did you use the stripper over the logo or did you re-etch it first? I left the citri-strip off of that area until I could find the thread on etching.
Which if anyone has a link to I cannot seem to find it. I swear there was an in depth thread on stripping and etching but I have a learning disability
Click to expand...

Twoody said:
She got hand treatment with the scotch before the patina View attachment 1653365
Click to expand...

Thanks for sharing pics, guys. Given your pics, and my OCD, I had to do another iteration :)

Here is the result:

i-7Gn3HXJ-X3.jpg


i-9K33Qcm-X3.jpg


Here is maybe a new finding, at least for me:

We have this stuff at home, acid based, that we use to clean our airstream, and that I have used in the past to de-color/de-oxidize Hinderer Ti hardware.

i-5RRbz6w-X3.jpg


This is what I used for the above, appears effective at removing decarb. Not sure how Res-C reacts to it, so I only used it on the blade. Use at your own risk, please.

The resulting finish is similar in color to Hinderer's Working Finish, which is why I included a Hinderer in the photo (pics are in the Californian noon sun).

Cheers,

Roland.
 
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ferider said:
Thanks for sharing pics, guys. Given your pics, and my OCD, I had to do another iteration :)

Here is the result:

i-7Gn3HXJ-X3.jpg


i-9K33Qcm-X3.jpg


Here is maybe a new finding, at least for me:

We have this stuff at home, acid based, that we use to clean our airstream, and that I have used in the past to de-color/de-oxidize Hinderer Ti hardware.

i-5RRbz6w-X3.jpg


This is what I used for the above, appears effective at removing decarb. Not sure how Res-C reacts to it, so I only used it on the blade. Use at your own risk, please.

The resulting finish is similar in color to Hinderer's Working Finish, which is why I included a Hinderer in the photo (pics are in the Californian noon sun).

Cheers,

Roland.
Click to expand...

Decarb cannot be removed without abrasives (ie. grinding it off to virgin steel beneath). It refers to metal that has lost it's carbon content to some degree, that product will not undo that damage. What it likely did was stripped the oxidation (scale) from the heat treat to look a bit cleaner.
 
(deleted as I was too tired for a coherent reply)
 
Last edited:
Father & Son Traditional Sharpening said:
Decarb cannot be removed without abrasives (ie. grinding it off to virgin steel beneath). It refers to metal that has lost it's carbon content to some degree, that product will not undo that damage. What it likely did was stripped the oxidation (scale) from the heat treat to look a bit cleaner.
Click to expand...

You don't know that. And neither do I, since neither of us is a chemist.

I can just report on what happened, which is the following:

- I stripped the DS6 (with original dark blue coating)
- underneath came out a dark coating, much like after stripping my Axe Hammer
..... - nobody here actually seems to know what that is. It could be decarb, or "blue-black oxide scale that forms at temperature above about 450C" (definition see https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/what-is-decarb.711078/#post-7792075)
..... - skyhorse skyhorse 's report on stripping his INFI knife and leaving it neglected for a long time without rust forming is very interesting. The BF reports on "decarb" rust that I found refer to stripped SR101 blades
- I sanded the DS6 and got most of the "decarb" off (for the results see post #60, https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...strippers-lately.1784548/page-3#post-20772033)
- I dunked it in Alumabrite for several hours.
..... - it formed a black "goop" while doing it's chemical reaction; That goop needed to be rubbed off.
..... - underneath is a grey steel surface. The Alumabrite smoothened out the surface somewhat, my (fine) sanding scratches are gone.
..... - the metal surface is homogenous now, meaning the Alumabrite affected both the bare metal, and whatever remained of the "decarb" for example in the grinder's "chatter" line that you see on one side.

And that's it. Report complete.

Roland.
 
I was asked how I replaced the scale rivets of the Axe Hammer by PM. Even though I'm sure most of you know what to do, I thought the answer might be of general interest:

"I just drilled them out. Put the knife blade in a vise (in between two pieces of wood), find a drill that is just a little bit bigger than the tube inner diameter, and drill carefully the top of the rivets off. Don't drill through the G10.

Then, take the scales off (takes a little bit of manipulation with a work knife), then get rid of the rivets that will still stick in the tang.

Later, you replace the original rivets with stand-offs and screws, that you can order here:

i-dBKJtzJ-M.jpg


Depending on the knife you need longer or shorter stand-offs. For example, the Axe Hammer needs shorter stand-offs than the SOB that I have (fatter handles)."

Cheers,

Roland.
 
ferider said:
You don't know that. And neither do I, since neither of us is a chemist.

I can just report on what happened, which is the following:

- I stripped the DS6 (with original dark blue coating)
- underneath came out a dark coating, much like after stripping my Axe Hammer
..... - nobody here actually seems to know what that is. It could be decarb, or "blue-black oxide scale that forms at temperature above about 450C" (definition see https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/what-is-decarb.711078/#post-7792075)
..... - skyhorse skyhorse 's report on stripping his INFI knife and leaving it neglected for a long time without rust forming is very interesting. The BF reports on "decarb" rust that I found refer to stripped SR101 blades
- I sanded the DS6 and got most of the "decarb" off (for the results see post #60, https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...strippers-lately.1784548/page-3#post-20772033)
- I dunked it in Alumabrite for several hours.
..... - it formed a black "goop" while doing it's chemical reaction; That goop needed to be rubbed off.
..... - underneath is a grey steel surface. The Alumabrite smoothened out the surface somewhat, my (fine) sanding scratches are gone.
..... - the metal surface is homogenous now, meaning the Alumabrite affected both the bare metal, and whatever remained of the "decarb" for example in the grinder's "chatter" line that you see on one side.

And that's it. Report complete.

Roland.
Click to expand...
I'm not really sure what all this means , most of my experience with strippers was learned during my misspent youth ?
 
ferider said:
------------
Click to expand...

Just to set the record straight.... if you can see it... then what you would call it is scale from the heat treatment.

The main concern with decarb is not oxidation but the other properties of the steel...

"A decarburised-surface-layer has lower tensile strength, elastic properties, hardness, wear resistance and fatigue strength (endurance limit) than those of interior portions of the part."

"Decarburisation cannot be detected by visual examination of steel parts and tools. It is revealed by microscopic examination, or by measurement of hardness."

Both quotes are referenced from the following article :
www.engineeringenotes.com

Heating of Steel: Oxidation and Decarburisation | Metallurgy

ADVERTISEMENTS: When a steel part is heated to high temperatures for heat treatment, its surface reacts chemically with the surrounding medium in the furnace. The furnace atmosphere may consists of various gases depending on the conditions of combustion and the temperature The common furnace...
www.engineeringenotes.com

It is possible the Alumabrite may have actually removed some decarb if it dissolved the steel but hard to say, again, without microscope or hardness testing.

I would be more concerned with whether or not that product is safe for all metals, some chemicals can actually cause embrittlement in steel.
 
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