Anyone using Whet stones in their sharping?

snapshot2017 said:
i have a King 1000
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OK . . . looks like the party went home.
. . . if anyone is out there to hear this . . .
My first stone was a King 1,000. Very frustrating experience in that what I really needed to start with was something much more coarse because the edges I had not only needed some reprofiling but were too dull to sharpen the edge on the fine 1000 stone in a timely manner without steepening the sharpening angle and the sharpening angle was already too steep from the factory to cut very well at all or stay sharp very long at all once it got sharp.

I'm a huge fan of very coarse stones to start because one can geeeter done quick then refine as you like. What I mean is you could go back to work with a scrape hair edge right off a 400 grit stone or my fave for a coarse stone a 120 (I like the Shapton Pro 120 Japanese bench stone 10" x 3" water stone if you want specifics). I hear the sweet spot for do all rough stones is 320. I haven't bought one yet. . . . but a 1,000 softish water stone for the first grit on a knife that hasn't been sharpened correctly ever and is seriously dull ? . . . to quote an old coworker : Nah dude, nah.:(:mad::(

PS: As far as specifics for the sweet spot coarse stone : Shapton Glass 320 similar size as the Pro above.

PPS : Mandatory Plug : get an Edge Pro.
 
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snapshot2017 said:
Nanwia 400 grit Super Ceramic
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I've heard good things.
Might want to watch this he's not the end all be all expert but he sure is into it and has a bunch of stones and experience with them to draw on.
Personally I think anyone who doesn't use an Edge Pro is simply mad but what do I know . . . I don't even have my own YouTube channel.
I do have frighteningly effective cutting edges though so for me THAT is what it is about.
 
In Japanese grit standard you can go up to about 700 grit before they'll struggle with high-vanadium steels. 700 grit under the JIS system is equivalent to 400 grit in the ANSI (American) system.
 
Regardless of your stone picks I would suggest a coarse DMT for grunt work. You will need it unless your time isn't worth anything to you. Now this coarse dmt can after a hand stropping , shave the hair off your arm. Some guys already had a belt sander (I did) very handy for hard steel knives that are in bad shape that would otherwise take a long time to get an edge on. Paper wheels are extremely capable as well. Not trying to convince you one way or the other.
 
Bill3152 said:
Regardless of your stone picks I would suggest a coarse DMT for grunt work. You will need it unless your time isn't worth anything to you.
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Agreed. I've reprofiled S110V on the extra coarse DMT and it took no time at all. Fantastic for that.
 
Chefs use whet stones, i am starting to also use them.
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some really hard stainless steel knives that don't seem to take much sharping
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my next go to stone for really hard steels
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. . . er . . . so far all we have to go on are buzz words and generalities, buzz words and generalities

Chefs use . . . ok these may or may not be chef's knives. They may or may not be "really hard".
. . and they might be some form of stainless.

Some people think 59 or 60 is really hard . . . some people KNOW 65 to 70 is really hard.
The difference between 60 and 65, depending on the alloy, can be like two different planets . . . and by the way, for decent sharpening results, two very different sharpening mediums .
 
Has any forum member used juice from a real lemon in their stone wetting, i understand the slight acid from the lemon juice helps remove the metal particles from the stone, giving the stone a cleaner surface that speeds the sharping process.
 
That would potentially allow your stone to mold...I don't recommend it. If you feel compelled to use any sort of acid on your stones (really not at all necessary) then it should be something like distilled white vinegar. I suggest not even bothering.
 
It might sound like if it works on really hard steel it will be great for softer steel. (By the way I include most stainless steel in the softer category because they suck so bad to sharpen compared to the majority of the alloys that will tarnish).
But
here is a quote from a stone supplier :
CS-HD series stones are made of silicon carbide and are designed for the hardest steels (up to 63 HRC). It is advisable to use the CS-HD stone set to sharpen knives made of hard stainless steel or carbon steel. Use of CS-HD stones to sharpen knives made of soft steel is not recommended – this will cause the CS-HD stones to wear at increased rates.
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Like I said many find steel above 55 or 58 to be hard to sharpen and to be hard steel.
In my mind above 65 is hard. 60 is "I guess I'll us it if that's all you got to offer" and 63 to 65 to be normal blade steel.
 
I have been told that there is a knife Mfg. that is using a metal called MP35 just how hard can this material be made.
 
Mr.Wizard said:
FortyTwoBlades FortyTwoBlades did you miss my question earlier in this thread? I am hoping for an answer to that.
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Sorry--I seem to have overlooked that. There aren't any plans for any larger stones at this point in time--there's way more gaps in the product offerings that need filling first before we'd be in a position to consider that. 8x2 is more than sufficient for most tasks, and due to the fact that the Mutt stones are made using recycled material we're inherently a bit limited in how large of a range we can offer those in since making them relies on material availability.
 
Wowbagger said:
Oh thank goodness. I was lost there. Some how I have never seen that word in print before (whet with an "h" rather than just wet).
Thanks
I felt like some one who has just gotten off the subway and upon looking around is struck by the fact that suddenly everyone has three legs and two heads.
It wasn't like this yesterday.
It must be Thursday . . . I can never get the hang of Thursdays.
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This should be very helpful to you for understanding the Whet "Water Stones" terms.
https://patheyman.com/primer-japanese-waterstones/
 
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snapshot2017 said:
Am going to try a Nanwia 400 grit Super Ceramic stone, as my next go to stone for really hard steels.
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The Superstones are good, and you'll like the 400, I suspect. It is a resin-bonded splash n go. It is the least aggressive 400 stone I have tried, but it also polished the highest, giving you the most refined edge of its category. Although there is much debate about this approach, I'd personally recommend you begin your sharpening sessions with a slurry, as I have found it to produce a more lively cutting response. Then to finish, you can rinse the stone off and hit it with some gentle strokes. The surface will load somewhat; such is the nature of that entire line-up, but you can purchase a 400 grit nagura from Amazon for incredibly cheap. It can be used to simultaneously produce a slurry and clean the surface of your stone. To flatten it, you can simply purchase some low-grit sandpaper, or even rub it on a cinderblock with a little sand. You are within range of incredible results with that stone, and it would suffice as a one stone answer.
 
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Beansandcarrots said:
The Superstones are good, and you'll like the 400, I suspect. It is a resin-bonded splash n go. It is the least aggressive 400 stone I have tried, but it also polished the highest, giving you the most refined edge of its category. Although there is much debate about this approach, I'd personally recommend you begin your sharpening sessions with a slurry, as I have found it to produce a more lively cutting response. Then to finish, you can rinse the stone off and hit it with some gentle strokes. The surface will load somewhat; such is the nature of that entire line-up, but you can purchase a cheap 400 grit nagura from Amazon for incredibly cheap. It can be used to simultaneously produce a slurry and clean the surface of your stone. To flatten it, you can simply purchase some low-grit sandpaper, or even rub it on a cinderblock with a little sand. You are within range of incredible results with that stone, and it would suffice as a one stone answer.
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Thanks for your helpful post i received a small nagura stone with one of my King stones and found it very useful, i had to watch a few videos to understand what it was and for what it was used for as everything came written in Japanese with the stone.
 
Wowbagger said:
OK . . . looks like the party went home.
. . . if anyone is out there to hear this . . .
My first stone was a King 1,000. Very frustrating experience in that what I really needed to start with was something much more coarse because the edges I had not only needed some reprofiling but were too dull to sharpen the edge on the fine 1000 stone in a timely manner without steepening the sharpening angle and the sharpening angle was already too steep from the factory to cut very well at all or stay sharp very long at all once it got sharp.

I'm a huge fan of very coarse stones to start because one can geeeter done quick then refine as you like. What I mean is you could go back to work with a scrape hair edge right off a 400 grit stone or my fave for a coarse stone a 120 (I like the Shapton Pro 120 Japanese bench stone 10" x 3" water stone if you want specifics). I hear the sweet spot for do all rough stones is 320. I haven't bought one yet. . . . but a 1,000 softish water stone for the first grit on a knife that hasn't been sharpened correctly ever and is seriously dull ? . . . to quote an old coworker : Nah dude, nah.:(:mad::(

PS: As far as specifics for the sweet spot coarse stone : Shapton Glass 320 similar size as the Pro above.

PPS : Mandatory Plug : get an Edge Pro.
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I've started with a 800 grit naniwa as my first bench stone and honestly: it's way nicer than expected. As long as you're not running modern toolsteels, having an 800 as lowest grit is fine (I've even sharpened a ZDP Delica on it a few times and sure it takes some time but it's absolutely doable) and if you transition to a 10k afterwards (as I've done for quite some time) you can get a beautiful, razor sharp edge from just two stones. I wouldn't want to sharpen maxamet that way though... :D
 
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