Anyone Want to Talk Traditional Fixed Blades?

Porch, my brother in law is working on a few file fixed blades. Ive been trying to get him to join but his time is extremley limited. He's wanting to build his own stove to try his hand at forged knives next. I m hoping he'll let me tryna few. :D

Sometimes those backyard, or garage sale, finds work out well. I'd say yours did.


My first Buck fixed blade arrived.

After eyeing OH's Bucks I thought I would grab one. It's a 1981 model 119. According to the Buck subforum member, David Martin, it is more than likely 425m. It has a couple dots, one on each side of the stamp, but no idea what they mean. Should be a good user when I get the chance.





Swivel Buck sheath was included. So, for $32 shipped not a bad deal at all for my first Buck fixed blade.
 
Leghog
Is that the whitetail or muley? What is the OAL on that beauty?

Phillip
Just gorogeous MUK and that sheath is super as well!!
 
Very nice FB knives!

I wanted to thank someone for an email but I do not know if it 'took' or not.

Thanks for the Buck knife information.

Cate
 
scrteened porch said:
The 119 is the Special, I think. It has the 6" blade you describe. I like the 118 Personal, myself, with A 5 or so inch blade. If self-defense/security blanketry is an issue, get the big one. If the 124 Frontiersman is still available, it has a nice long handle. That's the one I still covet.
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Thank you for this BUCK FB knife information too!

Cate
 
KBA said:
Porch, my brother in law is working on a few file fixed blades. Ive been trying to get him to join but his time is extremley limited. He's wanting to build his own stove to try his hand at forged knives next. I m hoping he'll let me tryna few. :D

Sometimes those backyard, or garage sale, finds work out well. I'd say yours did.


My first Buck fixed blade arrived.

After eyeing OH's Bucks I thought I would grab one. It's a 1981 model 119. According to the Buck subforum member, David Martin, it is more than likely 425m. It has a couple dots, one on each side of the stamp, but no idea what they mean. Should be a good user when I get the chance.





Swivel Buck sheath was included. So, for $32 shipped not a bad deal at all for my first Buck fixed blade.
Click to expand...

You have a beautiful BUCK knife there!

Thank you for this thread too.

Cate
 
Cate, you're welcome, and please show us your Buck when you get it.
KBA, good luck with your forging. I think with my electric blower on my farriers' forge, and my solid anvil stand, I should be able to accomplish something in that way soon also. I have various bits of spring and old files just begging to be transmogrified into knives, seaxes, and hatchets. Porch railing first.
 
scrteened porch said:
Cate, you're welcome, and please show us your Buck when you get it.
KBA, good luck with your forging. I think with my electric blower on my farriers' forge, and my solid anvil stand, I should be able to accomplish something in that way soon also. I have various bits of spring and old files just begging to be transmogrified into knives, seaxes, and hatchets. Porch railing first.
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You wouldn't happen to have pics of your setup SP? I have a 40's GI, hand cranked blower but nothing else...been wanting to find a farriers (portable forge) design. Saw a perfect one on an old episode of The Rifleman that took up about 2 SQ ft.

I have many blades from the fire that I want to try and re-temper.
 
SAK Guy said:
You wouldn't happen to have pics of your setup SP? I have a 40's GI, hand cranked blower but nothing else...been wanting to find a farriers (portable forge) design. Saw a perfect one on an old episode of The Rifleman that took up about 2 SQ ft.

I have many blades from the fire that I want to try and re-temper.
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I'd be delighted to take some pics. Pretty much everything is reachable in the garage at the moment. I'll post it in Carl's lounge, since there isn't much knife content till I've made some knives.

I've posted some pics. It's called "no more excuses".
A tall chimney is as good as a blower.
You might be able to get your annealed knifes hardening-hot in a grill or a hibachi.
Tempering hot is of course cooler, and can be done in a grill or hibachi or fireplace.
 
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I probably have more traditional fixed blades than folders.

Here are my three favorites:



I like this little Case, too.



I really have a soft spot for bird and trout knives.

 
Chris Montgomery said:
Very interesting that you mentioned the geometry. I have been studying how to get the best results for edc sized fixed blades for a while now. Ergonomics are important to me also, getting more important with my arthritis. Of the group you showed which is most comfortable and which cuts the best?
...
I am in the process of making myself a hunter/edc. I tend to find hidden tang knives more attractive, especially with Damascus. I will post some pics when I get done. I am trying to decide if I am going to use a stag taper or 3000 year old bog oak.

Chris
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Chris brought up, in an earlier post here, blade geometry. One knife I am looking for is a good all around camp knife that has the ability to do multiple chores. I know the SAK is a preferred folder, but is there a fixed blade? If so what length blade, style or geometry, steel?

I picked up the Hess Tiburon as such a knife but haven't been in the woods in a while. New babies tend to change a lifestyle. :D

Thanks for any info and pics
 
Brett, my take on blade geometry is that I want as thin as the steel will take before it takes damage from the intended uses. For knives that never contact hard mediums in a harsh manor you can get a very thin edge. Conversely blades that may encounter chopping have to be thicker. I also feel big chopping blades should be a bit softer, like 58 rhc vesus 60 rhc.

As far as steel goes, I find that less important than optimum heat treat. I have used a variety and have found that I can get the desired results as long as it's quality steel with top notch heat treat. That being said I am very pleased with the results I am getting with Damascus from 1084 and 15N20 and 80CrV2 as a mono steel. My camp chopper is 5160 and it has perform flawlessly for years but the 80CrV2 has allowed me thinner edges with better abrasion resistance, though by a slight margin.

I feel like I can handle just about any task needed with a well made fixed blade in the 3-4" range a camp ax and a slip joint. I will sub out the camp ax for a well made camp chopper and feel completely equipped in most any case.
I could probably do whatever with just the camp chopper but mine is on the large size for some tasks. Mine still has the patina and marks from all the work on the deer lease from last year. I will try to get a pic up soon.

I would love to hear what others feel on the subject.

Chris
 
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Thought I would add some.

This is the Damascus blade I showed earlier in this thread after heat treat. 250 cuts on 3/8" sisal rope and still slicing well.

I want a strong tip that still cuts well. Not a sharpen pry bar, but tough.

Yes, that is deer antler i was chopping on. :eek:All this testing is the bases I use for what I like in a fixes blade. I ground this blade to about .005" before rolling the edge, so it's pretty thin. I don't know if any of this will be helpful, but I hope to contribute to the conversation in some capacity.

Chris
 
Thanks Chris for the thoughts. I have a Puukko on order that will have 80crv2, I have read good things on the steel. It sounds as though there isn't really one go to fixed blade. I could be wrong but it seems for fixed blades 2 is better than one. A hard use chopper and a fine slicer.

Im currently studying the Khukuri (5160 steel) as a chopper to pair with the Puukko.

One knife I haven't tried is pictured above, the Nessmuk or Muk style knife. I may have to remedy that. :D

I also agree that heat treat is more important though I am only repeating others who have echoed the same. I've never thought of the geometry as getting the knife as thin as possible while maintaining fortitude or stability. Learn something new daily here. :thumbup:

Edit : Wonderul pics! Thanks for showing those off. Certainly doesn't look like a sharpend pry bar. Looks great. :thumbup:
 
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This PARANG arrived yesterday . it's from a company called MY PARANG it's hand made in Malaysia and made from 5160 carbon steel . it's got a really nice feel to it good balance and the grain in the wood is raised so it as a gripy fill to it . I believe Blade HQ are selling these if any body is interested .
.. Spec's
Blade length 25 cm
Overall length 42 cm
Blade thickness 0.55 cm
Weight 620g
 
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