Apex Edge Pro, Wicked Edge or KME Sharpening System For Busse & Kin Knives ??

Azula Gun Holsters said:
Well, just found a work sharp that I had been given as a gift a few years ago and was hiding away. Tested it out on a couple of cheap knives Did not want to destroy a Busse. Seemed to do a decent job on the Condor. Paper cutting sharp and shaving sharp just not super polished sharp but it is sharp and will shave all the hair on your arm if you kept going.

Could see where it would be useful to re-profile a damaged edge. The plastic edge guide is a little flimsy .

Going to get the KME and give it a try. Spoke to them and they said up to a 10" blade on the KME

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Get the blade grinder attachment for it and it will be a whole new ball game again.
 
Well..

Got a ken onion worksharp today, stupid as i was first knife in was the sfno bg..
Having real trouble getting the tip right, the tapering on the blade makes it difficult to get the angle right.
Any tips?
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Don't pull the tip all the way through. I did one blade wit the normal setup. Then I bought the blade grinding attachment and life is so much easier. I now hold the blade horizontal.
 
Teyler79 said:
Well..

Got a ken onion worksharp today, stupid as i was first knife in was the sfno bg..
Having real trouble getting the tip right, the tapering on the blade makes it difficult to get the angle right.
Any tips?
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Sorry to hear that. I had the same problem today with the tip. Luckily I was using cheap throwaway chinese pocket knives. I really chewed one tip up badly. Don't think I am going to let my Busse anywhere near this Work Sharp until I have mastered it a little better and may just wait for the KME to arrive.
 
One chewed up tip on the junker folder and one sort of chewed up tip on a cold steel cheap model 80 true flight thrower.

The only one that worked well was the Condor. All knives are shaving sharp.

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BEST POSSIBLE USE FOR THIS JUNK FOLDER
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NOT TO PANIC THIS IS A CHEAP COLD STEEL THROWER
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Painful :)

Looks like it recurved the tip!

What you could try is to tilt the blade as you get towards the tip so that a more obtuse angle is ground in.

Due to variance in blade width from heel to tip, most tips will be more obtuse relative to the rest of the edge because the taper from spine to edge is not as wide there, and you are grinding onto thicker steel.

If the angle of work is kept equal, you will have to grind a lot more at the tip. If you adjust with the taper, you will have an edge that is aesthetically even but accommodates variance of thickness in the grind.
 
Panthera tigris said:
Painful :)

Looks like it recurved the tip!

What you could try is to tilt the blade as you get towards the tip so that a more obtuse angle is ground in.

Due to variance in blade width from heel to tip, most tips will be more obtuse relative to the rest of the edge because the taper from spine to edge is not as wide there, and you are grinding onto thicker steel.

If the angle of work is kept equal, you will have to grind a lot more at the tip. If you adjust with the taper, you will have an edge that is aesthetically even but accommodates variance of thickness in the grind.
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Thanks! This sounds good👍 Will give it another try tomorrow, getting late😴

I did not round the tip on the worksharp, that was from stabbing another knife.. Not the greatest idea
 
Panthera tigris said:
Painful :)

Looks like it recurved the tip!

What you could try is to tilt the blade as you get towards the tip so that a more obtuse angle is ground in.

Due to variance in blade width from heel to tip, most tips will be more obtuse relative to the rest of the edge because the taper from spine to edge is not as wide there, and you are grinding onto thicker steel.

If the angle of work is kept equal, you will have to grind a lot more at the tip. If you adjust with the taper, you will have an edge that is aesthetically even but accommodates variance of thickness in the grind.
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Appreciate the help. I did tilt to follow the curve to the tip but that work sharp guide is a little flimsy and something must have gone wrong in the process. Going to give it a try on a couple more cheap knives. That is what those cheap knives are best at, sharpening test dummies.

How about a quick short little video to show us how a pro does it ? That way we can follow your lead and you can do a good deed and save a Busse from potential destruction.

Thank You
 
I love my Ken Onion Worksharp.

Tips:

-Tilt the blade to heep the edge horizontal on the belt.
-Let the tip get halfway through the belt then stop the belt and pull the knife out. Otherwise you round off the tips.
-Use a marker on your edge to make sure youre reaching all of the edge. Will let you see spots that you have given too much belt and spots that still need more.
 
Reign said:
I love my Ken Onion Worksharp.

Tips:

-Tilt the blade to heep the edge horizontal on the belt.
-Let the tip get halfway through the belt then stop the belt and pull the knife out. Otherwise you round off the tips.
-Use a marker on your edge to make sure youre reaching all of the edge. Will let you see spots that you have given too much belt and spots that still need more.
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Thank You, will give that a try
 
I'm no pro with a worksharp, just a helpful citizen! Murray Carter has some great sharpening videos on youtube. At the end of the day any sharpening is one medium (steel) at an angle against another medium. Anything you can learn watching someone on a waterstone could be translated to a worksharp or other jig.
 
I love my edge pro! I can put a mirror polish on my blades with it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Here's a little more info on the Ken Onion Worksharp...

[video=youtube;h8Yl_Z-oRkU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8Yl_Z-oRkU[/video]
 
Panthera tigris said:
I'm no pro with a worksharp, just a helpful citizen! Murray Carter has some great sharpening videos on youtube. At the end of the day any sharpening is one medium (steel) at an angle against another medium. Anything you can learn watching someone on a waterstone could be translated to a worksharp or other jig.
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Do appreciate your help, Thank You
 
I have a Worksharp Ken Onion and its a great little tool. However I had the previous model and burned it out... Now my KO edition is starting to go the same way. I guess my usage lies somewhere between hobbyist and full professional.... Clearly I'm asking too much of what I have. However I do sharpen a lot of knives for friends and relatives and my own ones.... I rarely receive a new knife with an edge I'm completely happy with... (I'm looking forward to buying my first Murray Carter just to experience the 'Air Bleeding sharpness').

Anyway Azula, check out this thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-Very-Cool-Russian-Knife-Sharpener-and-Review! If / when I buy another system... It will be one of those.

Hope it helps,

Lawrie
 
lozdesign7 said:
I have a Worksharp Ken Onion and its a great little tool. However I had the previous model and burned it out... Now my KO edition is starting to go the same way. I guess my usage lies somewhere between hobbyist and full professional.... Clearly I'm asking too much of what I have. However I do sharpen a lot of knives for friends and relatives and my own ones.... I rarely receive a new knife with an edge I'm completely happy with... (I'm looking forward to buying my first Murray Carter just to experience the 'Air Bleeding sharpness').

Anyway Azula, check out this thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-Very-Cool-Russian-Knife-Sharpener-and-Review! If / when I buy another system... It will be one of those.

Hope it helps,

Lawrie
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Did contact them about the Sharpener. They went up $100 on the sharpener to $388 plus $85.00 for shipping and could not say when they could ship. It was a long winded e-mail that did not say a whole lot and they could not say when they were shipping. Too messy to deal with but it does look like a top notch sharpener.
 
The only thing I might add is that a every single method/machine will have a learning curve. From the basics of sharpening, to the function of the tools used, to specific knife geometries, and different blade materials that affect all of the above.

So once you've made a choice, stick with it for a while and be patient with the process. I've spent literally days (not just hours), reading tips and technique from the pros and novice alike here on the forum. Also watch a ton of YouTube. Some are worthless, others blatant ads. But many from good knife folk who just want to share with the community. If I watch a 45 minute video, but only pick out one good tip that will help me with a future blade, then it was worth it. Because that simple tip will be used on many knives in years to come. I'm still very novice, and really appreciate the time and knowledge shared by many.

Good luck and have fun with the process. When you get to the point that almost everyone you show a knife to, draws blood because they simply touched the edge to test sharpness like they do with any other knife.....it will warm your heart, and you will know that it was all worth it. [emoji56][emoji41][emoji56]. Or when you start to hear comments like, "there is no reason any knife needs to be THAT sharp!" You know you're on the right path. Soon you'll realize that a knife simply being able to wipe off arm hair, could still be "dull" by your new standards. [emoji16]



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Sent from my mind....using Tap-a-Thought. (tm)
 
Azula Gun Holsters said:
Well, just found a work sharp that I had been given as a gift a few years ago and was hiding away. Tested it out on a couple of cheap knives Did not want to destroy a Busse. Seemed to do a decent job on the Condor.
Click to expand...

One important thing with the worksharp: Don't pull the knife completely through. Stop the belt when the tip is mid of the belt, otherwise you round it off. It happened a bit to the condor if I see correct.

Edit: Oh yeah, I answered too fast without reading all comments. Sorry!
 
Gave it another try today, thanks for the tips guys!
Its not perfect.. But a hell of alot better than it was!
Some pics.
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