Apex Edge Pro, Wicked Edge or KME Sharpening System For Busse & Kin Knives ??

Resharpened the 911 on the 20 degree slot and it's very sharp

Also just finished the SKYCO 411 on the Lansky at the 20 degree slot. It's super sharp as well. Going to strip that dreadful gold finish off and probably glass bead blast it and then use Gun Blue.

Looks like Wicked edge just came out with a new clamp for the Pro 3 that will accept a 1/4" blade and they also came out with longer 12" arms. It's a game changer for larger blades.

https://www.wickededgeusa.com/product/generation-3-jaws-for-14-blades/
https://www.wickededgeusa.com/product/12-guide-rods/

Looking forward to Freehouse32 review of the Russian sharpener.

The little Lansky has amazed me with outstanding super sharp edges - I don't have any hair left on my left arm - My kids say it looks funny

IMG_3291_zpsvjkqzcay.jpg

IMG_3293_zps8fgnskgh.jpg
 
I have been trying for a long time to compliment Rob into a tutorial video; he has not bitten yet... :D

Just give me "Two Weeks" ;)

This is for anyone that might be interested in the some of the specific details:

Hey Brother,

So in short:

1. I have a Wicked Edge Field & Sport Pro Gen 2 Sharpener

2. It can accommodate knives up to about .35 with no real issue.

3. I have Diamond Stones: 50/80, 100/200, 400/600, 800/1000

4. I have Cermaic Stones: 1200/1600, 1.4 micron/.6 micron

5. I have 5 micron/3.5 micron & 1 micron/.5 micron Balsa Wood Strops (They're slightly more adept to maintaining the exact same edge angle that you're sharpening throughout the entire process. While more forgiving, I've found that leather strops create a slightly less precise V edge.)

6. I sharpen at 19 degrees per side(38 degrees inclusive). I choose this edge degree for a few reasons. First, I find it highly capable and I find that it requires very minimal maintenance at this angle. It holds its edge for a very long time and is still extremely durable. It allows for margin of error to increase more by being more obtuse than 15 degree edge angles. I never worry about how hard I drive it into hardwood. Finally, at 19 degrees it easily is maintained on a Sharp Maker. For me it cuts like a dream.

7. I use an angle cube to ensure precision and edge angle consistency

8. I find that generally the central blade point is where I get the most consistency. I personally prefer the tip reducing in thickness. I find that a knife that roughly maintains an equal shoulder thickness throughout the edge, is a knife more precise. The added precision makes it a better cutting tool. The reduce thickness also allows for more penetration. It's simple geometry and physics.

I've posted a link to an old thread I posted about sharpening my FFBM to a mirror polish. That a full, big, thick, and heavy knife --- so that should cover most Busse Blades. I've sharpened the follow knives:

A) NMFBM
B) TTKZ
C) Basic 11
D) FFBM
E) CGFBM
F) SYKCO 911
G) Chophouse Thick Cut
H) HHFSH
I) Basic 8 L.E
J) TGLB
K) FAT ASH-1 (Grail Knife)
L) TRASH-1
M) Hell Rzor Terror Monkey
N) Infidu
O) Gentleman's Knife
P) Competition Finish SOB
Q) SYKCO Skinner
R) Street Scrapper 4 (INFI)
S) Swamp Warden
T) Scrapivore CG



http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1326640-My-Mirror-Polished-Edged-FFBM
 
Just give me "Two Weeks" ;)

This is for anyone that might be interested in the some of the specific details:

Hey Brother,

So in short:

1. I have a Wicked Edge Field & Sport Pro Gen 2 Sharpener

2. It can accommodate knives up to about .35 with no real issue.

3. I have Diamond Stones: 50/80, 100/200, 400/600, 800/1000

4. I have Cermaic Stones: 1200/1600, 1.4 micron/.6 micron

5. I have 5 micron/3.5 micron & 1 micron/.5 micron Balsa Wood Strops (They're slightly more adept to maintaining the exact same edge angle that you're sharpening throughout the entire process. While more forgiving, I've found that leather strops create a slightly less precise V edge.)

6. I sharpen at 19 degrees per side(38 degrees inclusive). I choose this edge degree for a few reasons. First, I find it highly capable and I find that it requires very minimal maintenance at this angle. It holds its edge for a very long time and is still extremely durable. It allows for margin of error to increase more by being more obtuse than 15 degree edge angles. I never worry about how hard I drive it into hardwood. Finally, at 19 degrees it easily is maintained on a Sharp Maker. For me it cuts like a dream.

7. I use an angle cube to ensure precision and edge angle consistency

8. I find that generally the central blade point is where I get the most consistency. I personally prefer the tip reducing in thickness. I find that a knife that roughly maintains an equal shoulder thickness throughout the edge, is a knife more precise. The added precision makes it a better cutting tool. The reduce thickness also allows for more penetration. It's simple geometry and physics.

I've posted a link to an old thread I posted about sharpening my FFBM to a mirror polish. That a full, big, thick, and heavy knife --- so that should cover most Busse Blades. I've sharpened the follow knives:

A) NMFBM
B) TTKZ
C) Basic 11
D) FFBM
E) CGFBM
F) SYKCO 911
G) Chophouse Thick Cut
H) HHFSH
I) Basic 8 L.E
J) TGLB
K) FAT ASH-1 (Grail Knife)
L) TRASH-1
M) Hell Rzor Terror Monkey
N) Infidu
O) Gentleman's Knife
P) Competition Finish SOB
Q) SYKCO Skinner
R) Street Scrapper 4 (INFI)
S) Swamp Warden
T) Scrapivore CG



http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1326640-My-Mirror-Polished-Edged-FFBM

Lots of outstanding info

Thank You
 
Rob is the reason I got a wicked edge myself. The learning curve is a very real thing but once you get it going the results speak for themselves.
 
Rob is the reason I got a wicked edge myself. The learning curve is a very real thing but once you get it going the results speak for themselves.

Which model wicked edge did you get ? What is the largest knife you have sharpened on it ?

Thanks
 
Which model wicked edge did you get ? What is the largest knife you have sharpened on it ?

Thanks

I ended up purchasing the Pro pack 2 with several accessories including the different grit stones. I haven't sharpened anything huge yet I'm still pretty new to the system over all and the largest knife I have done has been in the 7 in range. The cost of the system is really steep and I decided to go with this system because of Rob's very obvious results. I also made plenty of mistakes re-profiling knives so its good to practice on cheaper knives like I did before moving on to an awesome Busse. So far I have put a mirror polish on three knives but it takes time to make them that nice so I don't usually take it that far. I also use the spyderco sharpmaker to touch up edges and they loose their mirror polish when that happens. Overall I am happy with the wicked edge but I wish it was cheaper and I need to use it more to improve my skills with it.
 
Keeping the jig past the halfway point, closer to the tip of the knife, is important. It helps so you keep a strong tip not too thinned out. That was what I did wrong at first. I use the Wicked Edge.
 
Keeping the jig past the halfway point, closer to the tip of the knife, is important. It helps so you keep a strong tip not too thinned out. That was what I did wrong at first. I use the Wicked Edge.

Hey Al,

Hope all is well brother. As for blade placement --- id say, like everything, to each their own --- I've tried both and I've never really felt the tip gets too thin. Although it really depends on the knife and how a user plans to use it. As long as the angle is maintained as close as possible -- I find the cutting to be optimal without compromising strength.
 
Rob is the reason I got a wicked edge myself. The learning curve is a very real thing but once you get it going the results speak for themselves.

Thanks brochacho --- we're all in this together. The quest to optimize -- what is already near optimal. Busse blades truly are special.
 
This is not a review just some quick pics. I got my Russian sharpener in and half of the contents were lost in transit so I have no finishing stones leather strops etc. All I have is the kit itself and diamond stones. 80, 150, 240, 400, 800, 1200, 2000. The Russian sharpener is a best and worked fantastically!!! I sharpened a boom parang using just those stones to close to 15 DPS. In the middle, the angle cube read 15.45 and at both ends its read 14.95, close enough for me. I timed everything, I worked on 80 grit doing a reprofile which took 52 minutes, then the rest of the stones took right at 10 minutes. So I spent just over an hour on this blade.

This is the first time I put the sharpener together and the very first blade I sharpened. There was virtually no learning curve for me but I did have experience from the lasnky back in the day and the KME. The only learning curve was how to properly adjust the over travel stops (WHICH ARE AMAZING).

As far as the sharpener goes everything is ROCK SOLID AND no play and I am not even using the stiff springs, the dual clamps worked like a champ and the rotating was a please. The only negatives up front out side of having half my stuff disappear and waiting for replacements is the fact that I ordered it mid-October and received it early January. The other issue and it could be because I do not have everything set up properly is that angle indicator bar on the sharpener. I have a pic of the angle cube read out and the angle bar to show the difference.

The BP is scary sharp now and I can't wait to test it out!!! I can only imagine how nice the edges will get once I get the strops finishing stones and blanks for lapping film.

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Follow up, here is a pic of the BP just slicing through paper and a close up of the electro etching on the logo.

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After several hours of back and forth research it looks like the Apex Edge Pro, Wicked Edge and the KME sharpeners seem to be at the top of the list.

Would appreciate any info and feedback on these to get that hair popping edge on the small and large Busse & Kin blades.

Have only used a lansky in the past and then a ceramic stick for decent results. Need to move up to the next level.


Thank You

I've used Edge Pro Apex and recently upgraded to the Wicked Edge gen 3...extremely satisfied with quality of edges/polishing that comes of it. Of course I learned "manually" so I do still regularly work the sandpaper or just stones by themselves to keep my touch.
 
For those of you with lots of knowledge on the WE systems, what all do I need to purchase to sharpen a CS WTF on it?
 
The BP is scary sharp now and I can't wait to test it out!!! I can only imagine how nice the edges will get once I get the strops finishing stones and blanks for lapping film.

How do you plan to finish the edge? Did you order the plexiglass / aluminum blanks from tsprof, and plan to use WE lapping film? are they the same size and compatible ?
What finishing stones did you order?
 
How do you plan to finish the edge? Did you order the plexiglass / aluminum blanks from tsprof, and plan to use WE lapping film? are they the same size and compatible ?
What finishing stones did you order?

Yes to all of that, I ordered leather strops blanks, plexiglass and aluminum, and plan to use the WE lapping film and I have some chosera stones on the way. Yes they are all compatible and you can buy sheets of lapping film to cut to size if need be.

I plan to test strops, lapping film and chosera all together and separately to determine what works best for me and gives me the finest edge.
 
Yes to all of that, I ordered leather strops blanks, plexiglass and aluminum, and plan to use the WE lapping film and I have some chosera stones on the way. Yes they are all compatible and you can buy sheets of lapping film to cut to size if need be.

I plan to test strops, lapping film and chosera all together and separately to determine what works best for me and gives me the finest edge.

I am enthusiastically awaiting an update on the accessories. :D
 
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