Are there Knife companies that makes blades as strong as Busse knives?

jimh0220 said:
Continuing the broken record: don't abuse your knives, and use the right tool. So many strong, well made knives will do the job if used right.
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Why are you telling people what to do with their knives and forcing your irrelevant opinions on them?
 
Wiggity said:
Why are you telling people what to do with their knives and forcing your irrelevant opinions on them?
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Every time I decide to go a little past the rev limiter, my passengers never tell me to stop abusing my car. Well, maybe that's because they are to scared to say anything. 0-60 in 2.8 seconds has that effect. :)

Back on topic...
 
Are there Knife companies that makes blades as strong as Busse knives?
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Yes, of course there are. Steel is steel, chemistry is chemistry, and the laws of physics apply equally to all brands. If anything, the big burly knives are even more suceptible to damage because the extra mass and length makes it easier to load more stress on the materials that they are composed of.

Busse are good serviceable knives, but if you go ape on them they can and will break.

n2s
 
LADY EARTH....What an interesting thread?...Ive never owned a BUSSE and have no need to...I bought a Svord Bowie in 1990 and have never needed more of an (axe?) in my life...It was my edc as a demolition tool for 9 years,been on countless hunting trips and been trashed and thrashed in more ways than i care to mention.....10 inches of L6 at 59rc takes a bit of beating i tell you!....But each to there own...FES



 
OP, You mentioned cold affecting blades. It's true. Some steels seem to hold up in cold better than others. L6, as in the Svord knives has a reputation for dealing with cold better than some other chopper/large knife steels. Something to consider.

When I lived up north I tried to wait for very cold days before I split wood. I'd split a cord in a few hours with a 12 lb maul. Due to the heat treat and geometry the maul never minded the cold. Would I have chopped with a knife in that condition? No, but it was more out of practicality than a fear of losing a knife. Knives are not something I would have considered for anything more than getting some small kindling sticks to start a fire. They weren't efficient enough time wise. We used axes for kindling mostly, and mauls for the real splitting. Even wedges were too cumbersome and time consuming. I would split & stack a cord of year old hardwood logs with the maul in 3-4 hours. I couldn't afford to play with toys when I not only had my 2800 sq ft house to heat, but sold wood by the cord and half cord as well. I had never seen a hydraulic splitter until a decade or more later.

When I did work around a splitter I found it wasn't as fast as my 12 lb maul at splitting wood.

To me the idea of using knives on wood is for dilettantes with time and money to spare. Not people needing to keep people from freezing and using as a tool to put food on the table, and fuel in the truck and chainsaws.

Still, I do enjoy a large knife just for the beauty and novelty of it. O-1, 3V, and L6. BTW, we do know that what is sold as "infi" isn't any where near the "toughest" steel, right? Busse/scrapyard themselves say s7 ( a shock steel they at Bussekin call SR7 instead of the correct name, same as they call 52100 "SR101", and they call ...nevermind. )

Anybody who gives a lifetime replacement warranty pretty much has replacement costs built into the price. Not a new business model either. Most people don't use the service naturally so it becomes extra profit. One knife company even used to guarantee against loss. Like I said, nothing new there.
 
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Many valid points in the above posts. I am also buying an Extreme Judgment for mainly novelty reasons. Although it will do work when I need it to.
 
I had a ASHBMLE on order. I canceled it yesterday because after posting a thread in the Busse forum about the handle tubes bending and seeing how many others have this problem, I decided not to spend 700 on it. Fehrman will get the money.
 
Already have a Himalayan Import CAK. Not impressed.

Still need to get myself a Becker and ESEE. It's been on my to-get list for a few years now. :p
 
southernknives said:
I had a ASHBMLE on order. I canceled it yesterday because after posting a thread in the Busse forum about the handle tubes bending and seeing how many others have this problem, I decided not to spend 700 on it. Fehrman will get the money.
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I've always had the impression that anything on an infi knife that is not infi will break first before the infi will break. So a tube bending is not surprising to me considering the amount of abuse an average owner will subject it to.
 
LadyEarth said:
I've always had the impression that anything on an infi knife that is not infi will break first before the infi will break. So a tube bending is not surprising to me considering the amount of abuse an average owner will subject it to.
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I was surprised at how easy they bent. The weakest handle fasteners I've ever owned. In my post I said I only bent them on one knife. I bought two, and after the handles shifted on the first one, they shifted on the second one too. I've had Ontario machetes withstand WAY more.
 
If I need a crowbar I will use a crowbar. Sometimes even that is not strong enough. I once bent a 1 inch diameter hexagonal cross-section crowbar. A nice L-bend right in the middle. :)
 
This thread is going off the deep end.

To the OP,

Busse uses amazing steel but they are also sharpened prybars. Check out survive knives and get a cpm3v blade.

Cpm3v is awesome steel. 7x stronger than many tool steels.... That are already insanely strong. SuviveKnives aren't prybars though. Great steel but thinner blades for weight and sharpness.
 
If you don't mind a black DLC blade the Zero Tolerance 0100 is a great one with a 5.75" long, 0.19" thick blade of CPM-3V (RC 58-60). The 3D machined G10 handle is very comfortable and assures a very secure grip (you'll know once you've held one). Sheath is okay but functional. I got it on sale at BladeHQ for $199 which is a great price for that knife.
 
wacki said:
This thread is going off the deep end.

To the OP,

Busse uses amazing steel but they are also sharpened prybars. Check out survive knives and get a cpm3v blade.

Cpm3v is awesome steel. 7x stronger than many tool steels.... That are already insanely strong. SuviveKnives aren't prybars though. Great steel but thinner blades for weight and sharpness.
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Oh there are many great steels out there, which is why I'm very open enough to ask such questions as I did in this thread. :)

The SurviveKnife and Knife Research are in my top 10 fixed blade knives I want to try.

RamZar said:
If you don't mind a black DLC blade the Zero Tolerance 0100 is a great one with a 5.75" long, 0.19" thick blade of CPM-3V (RC 58-60). The 3D machined G10 handle is very comfortable and assures a very secure grip (you'll know once you've held one). Sheath is okay but functional. I got it on sale at BladeHQ for $199 which is a great price for that knife.
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Not a bad idea but I've have about 6 to 7 different ZT folding knives and I'm pretty much satisfied with my experience with them so I'm branching out from ZT itself. But thank you tho!
 
southernknives said:
I had a ASHBMLE on order. I canceled it yesterday because after posting a thread in the Busse forum about the handle tubes bending and seeing how many others have this problem, I decided not to spend 700 on it. Fehrman will get the money.
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I'm a little confused here, you did not seem so concerned in that thread? :confused: Most of the people who bent the tubes were throwing their knives or hitting the handle with a heavy object. After 12+ years of hard use I've never seen this happen first hand, but I bet if I repeatedly hit the handle with a mallet or wood maul I'd get any handle to break or come loose.

That said, I own and really like my Fehrman First Strike. It's performed very well in the field and I have no complaints but for the blade edge has a bit of a propensity to chip instead of deform. Its easier to steel a deformed edge than to sharpen out a chip. I've also lost a few handle bolts on mine from them coming loose during use, I know that thread locker would help but I want to be able to remove the handles when I wish.

ESEE is an excellent choce for an outdoors knife. Rowen does magic with 1095. I've been very pleased with the ESEE4 thats been through a few hunting trips, but for needing a touch up during skinning its performed very well for the price. They use the same bolts as Fehrman which makes it fun to switch out the handles for custom pieces, larger handles do wonders for the 3 and 4. But they do come loose on occasion, watch them carefully.
 
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