Besides CPK knives, whaddaya like?

gusbuster said:
Haven’t posted this in awhile. Bantangknives double hollow grind Spike
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Holyshitiminlove
 
Casinostocks said:
My GB axes just got delivered and I'm smiling on this downer of a mood day (COVID-19 / the Markets / Blah Blah). Looked at my CC statement and I was charged $249.42 all delivered by Express Mail all the way from Lamina Shop in Finland and I also got 1% instant cash back? :eek: Honestly, I should call the cops on myself!

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Now, the SFA is not as nice as the one I had bought from AG Russell's a few years ago thanks to Tervitrace, but still heckuva deal for a combo although I have seen better handle finishes. I little bit of high quality wood wax ought to go a long way :)

#imnotanaxesnob
#beggerscantbechoosers
#imonlyabigcpksnob
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Brummie said:
I have the Outdoor Axe and the Scandinavian Forest Axe. The Small Forest Axe is very popular, but it's an awkward in-between size for me - too large for one hand, too small for two hands.
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Just received the lg. splitter and the small forest axe. Both look good and can't wait to put the splitting axe to use. It's very similar to the fiskars (length/weight) I got my dad for Christmas (and I've been using) about 20 years ago. The head shape is more abrupt than I remember the fiskars being and I think that'll really lend itself to popping rounds in half a little more easily.

Not sure how I feel about the small axe. I think even if I didn't have the council tool and the ScFA I'd find the small to be an odd size. I'm sure it's a very useful tool I just don't see it for my particular uses.

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that small axe looks like a good companion to a chainsaw- hammering wedges and whatnot where a large axe can be a little much. I guess a hammer would work too, but there's no edge on a hammer and where is the fun in that?
 
Lorien said:
that small axe looks like a good companion to a chainsaw- hammering wedges and whatnot where a large axe can be a little much. I guess a hammer would work too, but there's no edge on a hammer and where is the fun in that?
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Yeah, I could see that. I think I'd still prefer the one on the left for that task. 16" haft for easier one-handed operation and a hardened poll for a variety of pounding tasks.

I've actually never used or seen anybody use a wedge while felling. Our woods are pretty open and there's usually one guy who does that job and is good enough to typically land it in an acceptable spot. I've always been tasked with following them and splitting. I don't mind it, keeps me spry. :)
 
trevitrace said:
I've actually never used or seen anybody use a wedge while felling. Our woods are pretty open and there's usually one guy who does that job and is good enough to typically land it in an acceptable spot. I've always been tasked with following them and splitting. I don't mind it, keeps me spry. :)
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They're very useful if there's a little air movement or you just need some extra insurance that things stay controlled. Face out your notch, cut your first half of the back cut toward the hold-wood and wedge it (leaving a full quarter of the tree/half of the back cut, intact), when that wedge is set finish taking the other half out of the back cut and set another wedge to fell it. It's not a fast fell, but it is controlled.
 
Hard Knocks said:
They're very useful if there's a little air movement or you just need some extra insurance that things stay controlled. Face out your notch, cut your first half of the back cut toward the hold-wood and wedge it (leaving a full quarter of the tree/half of the back cut, intact), when that wedge is set finish taking the other half out of the back cut and set another wedge to fell it. It's not a fast fell, but it is controlled.
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Sent you some pics, I have been hitting a lot of wedges with axes. Wouldn't want to drop most of the trees I do without wedges and you gotta have them for bucking rounds if I am making firewood, prevents any pinches. As for the ax, give me one with at least a twenty inch handle and a minimum of a 2 1/2 pound head.
 
Hard Knocks said:
They're very useful if there's a little air movement or you just need some extra insurance that things stay controlled. Face out your notch, cut your first half of the back cut toward the hold-wood and wedge it (leaving a full quarter of the tree/half of the back cut, intact), when that wedge is set finish taking the other half out of the back cut and set another wedge to fell it. It's not a fast fell, but it is controlled.
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:thumbsup:

Probably belongs in the random thought thread, but apropos enough.

 
I passed on cutting a tree in the yard last week and glad I did. Had a couple professionals look at it and they would not cut it down without pushing it over with a excavator. It looked easy enough but was rotten. We live in a small logging town and half my family are timber fallers and if they are scared of a tree I shouldn’t mess with it.
 
gusbuster said:
Haven’t posted this in awhile. Bantangknives double hollow grind Spike
LqPFr3i.jpg
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That’s a handsome and wicked looking Spike dagger you got there Gus! I wouldn’t want to be on the receiving end of that blade.

I too have a weakness for @Ban Tang's work. His handle designs are simply sublime and sort of melt in your hand. Of course his legendary edge sharpening is what most people recognize him for.

Here are a few of mine. (Top to bottom: Mini-Bowie in Elmax, BT-4 in 20CV, & Mini-Bowie in VG-10)





Phil
 
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