Better bring protection

these hang out outside 24/7. I've had em for....5 years? Don't even know
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This morning I was preparing to put away some knives that I might not touch for months or longer, and found this very informative thread.
I have simply been wiping mineral oil on my blades, then putting the knives, separate from leather sheaths, in a box. I like the idea of using the same oil on the stored knife that I use on my 'use' knives; however, I have things like Break Free, Ballistol, Hoppe's, etc., for my guns, so if any of those products are a better idea for stored knives, I would switch. Is it just a matter of preference?

Also, I'll add agreement to what someone mentioned about checking leather for mold - I didn't get my guns out of the safe for close to a year during COVID, and some holsters developed a little mold.
 
I could talk for hours on this subject but long story short, leather doesn’t attract moisture. It has insulating factors so once water is introduced it takes longer to dry than Kydex or nylon, but they all get condensation in them.

My bigger concern would be that your gun safe is getting humid enough for mold to form. It takes a sustained moist environment for mold to form and because your leather is porous it’s an easy target, but your guns are being affected in ways you may not see, like wood expansions and other issues. You should get a glow rod or at least a bucket of damp rid.
 
cpirtle said:
I could talk for hours on this subject but long story short, leather doesn’t attract moisture. It has insulating factors so once water is introduced it takes longer to dry than Kydex or nylon, but they all get condensation in them.

My bigger concern would be that your gun safe is getting humid enough for mold to form. It takes a sustained moist environment for mold to form and because your leather is porous it’s an easy target, but your guns are being affected in ways you may not see, like wood expansions and other issues. You should get a glow rod or at least a bucket of damp rid.
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Absolutely! I was waiting for this response but was too lazy to defend myself in advance :)

I was using two rechargeable silica gel things and they died on me. When I found the problem I tossed them and got a better one that I have already recharged once in the oven. It's worked fine for the last year or two. I know there are better methods, but this takes up very little room and my safe was stuffed.

Edited to add: Before COVID, I was at the range twice a week, so my guns got constant attention. I got COVID in May, 2020 and stayed away from the range, etc. About the time I was ready to get out more consistently I got COVID a second time, and it was much worse - heart issues, respiratory problems. The heart issues lasted over a year, and during that period I felt I should avoid any chance of getting it again, uncertain how my heart would respond to another dose of it. I'm fine now and do all the things I used to, without any concerns.
 
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camellia or EDCi both works great. EDCi leaves less sticky/greasy finish but I believe the coating resulted as the use EDCi does not do any good to edge. The knives I used EDCi on feels less sharp after applying it. But probably that is temporary and it could be something get back to normal after the first cut.
 
I know this thread hasn't seen any action in a few months. I recently discovered that my Tacoma has sprung a leak near the back left window. It seems to be a common issue here in South Florida. I guess the humidity and rain have expanded some parts to allow the truck to take on water in the cab during these hell-ish daily rainstorms.

Anyway, I keep my HDFK in a section behind the seat. I pulled it out today and noticed that the blade had some rust spots on it, luckily it just rubbed off and was only surface rust. Under the scales tho was a different story. I noticed that there is a significant amount of rust on the metal. I am currently using baking soda and water to try and get the rust off.

Has anyone seen this happen on their HDFK before or on any of their other CPKs? Any other tricks for removing rust?

Thanks!
 
Bar keepers friend works to remove rust.

Apply some as a wet mixture and leave it sit for 30 seconds then rinse it off (agitate as needed first) and then neutralize the area with baking soda and water as bar keeper's friend is a mild acid.

I've seen this done on other knives but never personally tried it on a D3V knife yet so maybe try a test spot first.

Hope that helps!
 
cpirtle said:
Sorry on my phone and didn’t see there were so many replies, sorrow my post was redundant.
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Don't be sorry, very informative !

So, the general BF opinion is not to store knives in leather. Yet, I know many people here who obviously do. I myself had a 3V knife in a leather sheath for > 1 year untouched, and it looked like new coming out.

So, what's your take please: if I have a CPIRTLE dry leather sheath in a dry environment, can I store an INFI or D3V blade in it for several months or longer ? Such a pain to get Kydex sheaths for some of my knives ....

Thanks in advance,

Roland.
 
ferider said:
Instead of leaving it in the rain for 5 more years ... can I have the top one, pretty please ? Only half joking. One of my favorites ....
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well, I would, but as you can see the logo has been ground off and even I wouldn't do you like that

I use Autosol to clean steel up. It works great.
 
Lorien said:
I use Autosol to clean steel up. It works great.
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Have you used this on carbon steel by chance or only more stainless varieties?

I used blue magic metal polish cream on some 52100 and M4 a few times trying to remove some dark staining and light patina and it seems to leave a cloudy patina behind which saddens me as it was a nice bright satin finish. Perhaps it was the ammonia in it or something.

I've been wanting to try another metal polish which wouldn't do this, only leave the satin finish brighter, but I'm afraid to further mess up any knives!

Protecting the blade unfortunately does not 100% protect against the staining or patina unless you never use it, but where's the fun in that?!
 
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