BF survival forum knife.

Thanks guys, just trying to help. The blade width is 1.3" on the Hunter-Skinner and it is 1.25" on the Scout.


The Hunter skinner is a bit smaller than the Scout it is 8" OAL with a 3.5" blade VS the Scout @ 9" OAL with a 4" blade. I have made variations of the Hunter Skinner with a 1.125" wide blade for a couple of guys who felt that the blade was too wide.



Nick:)
 
Thanks for the kind comments, FiddleBack and hikeeba! :)

I'm with the majority, I agree it should be no-frills and made for easy cleaning/low maintenance.

NWA, your knives look like a great deal at $100-125. Certainly fits the bill these gents are talking about. Do you include sheaths with them?
 
I love your designs because they fit with most guys thoughts here: Tough Carbon steel, straightforward handle design and material, price, blade shape.

Since we're still kicking around ideas though, is this something you might be willing to take on? I don't know what exactly the final design will look like, or how many guys are in though. I also will check with Spark and see if the whole idea is cool with him.
 
I do make a sheath for each and every knife.I know that it isn't in the picture, but the link that is on pg.#2 to the Scout it has a pic of my standard pouch sheath. I would like to see how many units we are talking about here, but as it stands right now, I'm in.


Nick:)
 
Excellent, thank you Nick! Something else I was thinking of too was getting a loop sewn on the sheath for a firesteel.
Something like this (Pic and sheath by Fiddleback)
F125.jpg
 
That's cool:thumbup: I could handle that. There would only be one problem. Unless One person were to purchase all of the same fire steel it may cause a problem with the loop size. In other words, we would need to come up with a set dimension for the loop.

Nick:)
 
Yeah I like the way this is going. As far as blade wide is concern, I was just being picky. I'm sure I can live with a slighter thick/ thinner blade. Just gotta play with it for a while to use to the limitations on the knife.
 
No I don't think anyone's input is being picky at all. That's the whole point was get a design that most guys would find useful, sort of standing for what this forum likes to use in the field.
 
I don't find anything or anyone picky. Everybody has a different idea of a ideal knife and this sort of thing is exactly the way to hammer out the design ideas. Lets keep it going.

Nick
 
NWA said:
I don't find anything or anyone picky. Everybody has a different idea of a ideal knife and this sort of thing is exactly the way to hammer out the design ideas. Lets keep it going.

Nick
Click to expand...

Yep, exactly! A collaborative effort is what I had in mind.
A couple more ideas to throw out there:
-Does anybody find a use for an exposed pommel? I have some knives with it, but I don't know if it does any good or not. I've used a piece of wood to baton the butt of a knife with a flush handle with no damage to the scales.

-What about any grooves on the spine to aid in sparking? Or is a good squared edge better? I've used both types and they seem to both throw great sparks from the firesteel.

-What spine thickness would be best?
 
I use the pommel to dispatch fish. Smash it on the base of the skull/head whatever you call it on a fish.

Don't know what else I use it for, but my old mora is all bashed up from something.
 
I feel with a full tang, you don't need a buttcap or tang extension for banging on tent stakes, knocking out fish, cracking nuts, etc.

tknife, I'm not sure what you mean about grooves in the spine? I like a square edge for striking sparks, or a small round notch at the plunge.
 
Not really grooves, I'm enot sure what I'm trying to say :) Liek the thumb grooves on the back of the Manix. They are really small, and kind of sharp. But yeah, and sharp squared spine always works for me.

As for grind, I like flat or convex myself. Flat is super easy to maintain in the field.
 
Convex is easy to maintain, durable too! I can deal with a flatgrind as well, just no hollowgrinds, unless we settle on a necker.
 
I like thumb grooves anyway, hadn't thought of them for scraping sparks.

Adding a firesteel to the package is a great idea! Could we agree on a field sharpener as well? Those two things are like "chocolate" to a good knife's "peanut butter". :)

I think it's safe to say not too many would want a hollow grind. At least, I think you give up too much strength for the extra cutting ability. The one I'm making is full flat with a mildly convexed edge; if you want thinner (1/8" or less, say) stock, then a scandi grind would be great. If you ground a blade that thin full-flat, it would be very sharp and a wicked slicer, but not real strong. I already own a Clipper I like a whole lot, so personally I'm not going to re-create it.
 
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