BF survival forum knife.

I think that the size was a factor in that, the smaller knife being around 125 and the larger 150. i figured once we got a head count, then Nick could figure out what the time frame would be.
 
Hi fellas, Pricing would be $125.00 for the Hunter Skinner style and $150.00 for the othe rtwo styles. I hope those prices sound good to you guys. I can work in the loop for a fire steel we just need to figure out the O.D. of the stick.

Tknife has it down, in that once we figure out how many I will be able to quote a time frame.


If I missed any topics, please let me know.

Nick:)
 
NWA,
Love your knives, what steel are they, do you have a website/where can I see more of your work and if you make a BF knife I am very interested.

Chris
 
I like that Scandi, and the drawing is great. I would say it's up to the Members.
I unfortunatly do not have a website. I post, pretty much everything I make, on this forum, in the gallery or the for sale forum. I can e-mail you some other pics if you would like



Nick:)
 
Myakka said:
How about this for a forum knife. Full tang scandi.

Click to expand...


i'm liking the sounds of this knife so far.....:thumbup: and if NWA makes it that's even better.... his work is awesome..... i'm in....:thumbup:

myakka- that is a great drawing.... looks like a good all around user.....:thumbup:

mike
 
Shoot, I knew it would be tough to narrow one down! There are so many great designs. Lets just keep posting ideas here, then I guess put it to a vote?
 
Hi all. I got on to put up a design, but it is almost identical to Myakka's. Mine did not have a drop point though.
Here is a thought. There are a dozen ideas for sheaths and probably many different ideas for handle materials. How about a blade only, just like Grossman's PSK knives. Then you can customize the knife however you want. Also, if we standardize a blade, then a maker could offer all kinds of handle options, just like buying 1911 grips.
That way too, the price could be cut in half or more, and if you wanted something fancy, you could dress it up, but there would not be a huge wait for the maker or on the voting to decide which knife would be best.
Personally, I have preferences on grips and sheaths that probably differ from many of those here. I have no real desire to spend a lot on options I do not care about or want.
I am not knocking any ideas, just pointing out that we may all be better off w/ a simpler product.
 
Do either NWA's Hunter-Skinner or Myakka Full tang scandi in O-1 and I'm in.
 
Myakka, do you have a full drawing of the knife you are showing, w/ all the radi and such?

I am waiting on a reply from a water jet cutting service right now. He gave me some ideas of preliminary cost. I have checked on price of heat treat from Texas Knifemakers & Paul Bos.

My question to all would be if you would prefer to buy a knife complete w/ sheath and handle, or a simple blade, kind of like buying a Becker Necker w/out a sheath. If no one cares about a blade alone, then I will not continue checking on practicality.

If the idea is of interest, then the next step would be to see what a maker would charge to grind a bevel on say 25-50 simple knives.

Also, I would assume that a carbon steel would be preferable, is there any preferance in particular? I am getting a price on 0-1 and or 1084.

Also, I am nobody special, so if there was a need I could give the limited info I have to someone else in order to take care of this.

Thanks.
 
For myself, being the unskilled type, I'd want the complete knife and sheath. I can do a rough sketch of a knife, but that's as far as my talent goes, so I definitely want an experience maker to make the final product. But I still think you have a great idea for those with the tools and talent to create their own finished knife.
 
Myakka said:
How about this for a forum knife. Full tang scandi.

Click to expand...

DUBE you main this...

knife57.jpg


form your boubby

http://riflestocks.tripod.com/pics45.html
 
Hi Guys,

I haven't read all of this thread, but it occurred to me that you will probably need the blessings of the gods of Blade Forums before using it on a knife.

Didn't mean to wizz on the campfire, but it ought to be looked into before getting too far down this road.

-- FLIX
 
I am in for one! I would prefer the larger blade size myself with a flat grind. If we can get everyone to agree on the design, we should call it the Vorpel. I am sure I spelled that wrong, but the design would be legendary!
 
Myakka said:
Click to expand...
A while ago I was asked what I would call a real "Survival Knife"?

This photo above posted by Myakka comes very close to the image in my mind for a great Survival Knife.

My only slight change would be for a extra 1/8"-1/4" of ricaso area in front of the handle to allow a finger to sit there when chokeing-up on the edge.
But if there is already enough room in that area for a finger, then it's fine now.

Aside from that small change, I cant find a thing wrong with the blade.
The design seems to fit what I would expect for a good general-use, Survival knife.
It looks like it could do a lot of jobs in the field, and is not so big that it would get in the way.
With the right designed sheath it could easy become an knife carried at all times .
 
Allan,
Weren't you arguing against the ricasso and choil in another thread because it shortens the cutting edge? :confused:
 
ras said:
Allan,
Weren't you arguing against the ricasso and choil in another thread because it shortens the cutting edge? :confused:
Click to expand...

No, not the Ricasso,
I talked about that fact I believe that Choil cut-out is always getting in the way and snagging.
But I strongly support the flat non-sharped ricasso area infront of the handle.

I dont think I will ever own another knife that has the choil cut-out section in front of ther handle.
It's way more trouble than it's worth.
It's always getting in the way and snagging, and because you have to stop the matterial you are cutting from getting even close to it, it's pointless to defend the choil on the grounds it makes sharpening easyer.

The fact is that any knife that has such a cut-out has less real usable cutting area , thus there is no need to sharpen that area anyway.

However, the ricasso is a very important part of a good survival knife design and I would always have a 3/4" inch ricasso on such a blade to allow placement of the finger there.
When you look at the design above, you can see how you could slip a finger infront of the guard with an extra 1/8" or so of flat ricasso area.
I believe this would be very handy to be able to do.

The length of the knife above might be a bit short for me, it might be nice for the blade to be atleast as long as the handle.
However what I like about the design is that it could be used in so many situations .
I like that fact that it has no guard.
A guard limits the ability to use a knife, while making the knife a lot more safe to handle.
Thats fine for a Hunting knife, but with the many "un-knowns" that come with the context of a true survival situation you got to have as much use of of the knife as you can.

I like the idea it dont have any saw teeth, (I always thought such things were a joke to use) nor other add-ons that look good but soon become pointless in the field.
 
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