BF W&S knife Ironwolf list

Here is a question for those (Myakka, et al.) who are sending their Scandis back for re-bevel. After feeling the initial bevels on my two BF Scandis, I am noticing they are thinner in stock than that of my well sharpened Mora. Has anyone else noticed or have this?

I ask as I'm deciding whether sending it back for re-grinding would make the new true Scandi edge too thin and weak after more metal removal. I may just decide to leave it with the secondary bevel if thats the case. Just wanted to catch your thoughts. Thanks.
 
CUTS LIKE A KRIS said:
Are all of the knives pinned with the large pins rather than the small pins seen in the original pictures?? The holes were bored for small pins but all pics are big bolts.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4597743&postcount=151

Am starting to get concerned about all of the changes seen so far. Especially with 4 knives on the way.

From those of you that have it in hand- how does it cut- after all that is the most important thing
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There were 2 options for this one was pins and the other loveless fastners. If you ordered pins I imagine that is what you will get.
 
chugokujin said:
Here is a question for those (Myakka, et al.) who are sending their Scandis back for re-bevel. After feeling the initial bevels on my two BF Scandis, I am noticing they are thinner in stock than that of my well sharpened Mora. Has anyone else noticed or have this?

I ask as I'm deciding whether sending it back for re-grinding would make the new true Scandi edge too thin and weak after more metal removal. I may just decide to leave it with the secondary bevel if thats the case. Just wanted to catch your thoughts. Thanks.
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I still haven't got mine so I'm waiting to see.:(
 
Hollow,

Sorry to hear about that. Please advise when you do receive it. I've noticed you have quite a nice Scandi collection. I think I understand why Ken put a second bevel for strength on the Scandi. I've noticed the ridgeline on these isn't as pronounced as that on my Kellams, Moras, or Pack pal and that its ground at steeper/acute angle. I've tried laying the blade on different stones to see if the ridgeline would act as guide and noticed it is a bit harder than my others. Could be that the ridgeline/initial bevel is higher too. That being said, MINE are thinner in stock and sharpening the entire bevel the "Scandi way" might thin it out even more. I'd be interested in hearing your opinion when ya get em. Overall, I still think the knife feels great and like the balance.
 
chugokujin said:
Here is a question for those (Myakka, et al.) who are sending their Scandis back for re-bevel. After feeling the initial bevels on my two BF Scandis, I am noticing they are thinner in stock than that of my well sharpened Mora. Has anyone else noticed or have this?

I ask as I'm deciding whether sending it back for re-grinding would make the new true Scandi edge too thin and weak after more metal removal. I may just decide to leave it with the secondary bevel if thats the case. Just wanted to catch your thoughts. Thanks.
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I'm going to just keep the knife and write it off, too much hassel to sent back.

Ken did offer to fix it for me, which was good.
 
Myakka,

I think I will do the same and keep mine as I feel the same way. So are yours the same as mine in description? I know you have quite a few Scandis as well. Your thoughts compared you some that you already own?
 
With all the negatives in this thread I hesitate to comment, but I noticed than no one has commented on the quality of the flat ground knives too much. I like mine.

I used some apple cider vinegar to put a patina on mine and it worked but just barely. Is there a relationship between steel hardness and its ability to take a patina?

Anyway in the process of soaking it with all that vinegar the wood finish took a hit so I just took the opportunity to refinish it in Tung Oil. It's curing now.

Edge wise, my flat ground blade came very sharp. I polished the edge on my fine tri-hone stone and called it done. The edge is a little thinner than I normally sharpen a working knife, but for now I'll stay with the profile it came with and see how it holds up. I can always reprofile to a steeper angle later.

Sorry about you guys having issues with your Scandi blades, but at least my flat ground blade is great.
 
Got my knife today, thank you!!
Looks like a great user in my eyes.
I have to admit to being a bit negatively surprised with the second bevel on my scandi grind. Not what I'd expected or wished for.
Still, after I've changed it back to a proper scandi grind, it'll be as good a user as its looks says it is.

/ Karl
 
ras said:
With all the negatives in this thread I hesitate to comment, but I noticed than no one has commented on the quality of the flat ground knives too much. I like mine.

I used some apple cider vinegar to put a patina on mine and it worked but just barely. Is there a relationship between steel hardness and its ability to take a patina?

Anyway in the process of soaking it with all that vinegar the wood finish took a hit so I just took the opportunity to refinish it in Tung Oil. It's curing now.

Edge wise, my flat ground blade came very sharp. I polished the edge on my fine tri-hone stone and called it done. The edge is a little thinner than I normally sharpen a working knife, but for now I'll stay with the profile it came with and see how it holds up. I can always reprofile to a steeper angle later.

Sorry about you guys having issues with your Scandi blades, but at least my flat ground blade is great.
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ras,
I've never heard of HRc being a factor in a blade taking a patina. Maybe the composition of the steel (1084). I mean, of course, you degreased the blade.
You might have to go with the ferric chloride. Or, try mixing the vinegar with dish soap, I heard that using the dish soap works like night and day. Breaks the surface tension, or something. Try doing a search on "etching".
 
Thanks. Yep, degreased the blade and wrapped it in a paper towel with the vinegar. The blade has a light gray mottled patina, just not as dark as other blades, but those were 1095; I figured 1084 would be similar.
 
Got my blades yesterday. Mine do not have a secondary bevel. :thumbup:

On the other hand neither have an edge:thumbdn:

The bevel on both sides do not meet up at the edge. It's flat.:rolleyes:

Also the bevels are really long and uneven so really laying the bevel down on the stone and sharpening the whole bevel like you would do sharpening a scandi I believe I would almost end up making it a flat ground blade before I could actually get the edges to meet up.

The one is has uneven bevels but the grind is nice. The other is really shaky and has grind marks up on the flats like they were shakey when they ground it:thumbdn:

I'm going to send these back and see if Ken will make me two more blanks with a bevel about half the length of these and actually sharp:thumbup: It's a nice design IMO the edge is just not done right and I don't think they can be modified other than by putting a secondary on them.
 
HD,

Glad you got your knives and that yours have no secondary bevel. Everything you said is spot on in terms of grind and especially with bevel and how they will relate to its performance and sharpening. These were my observations as well. Just noting "what is", not being negative.

Yes, I do think its a great design, nice tapered tang, good feel and balance, but, its would been nice if it was all that with a true Scandi. I have way more flatground knives and was looking forward to this not being so. I agree with HD that modification will not work and a secondary bevel is the only remedy for now.

HD, let us know if will remake yours. Your input might help as it seems you have quite a few and much experience using them.
 
Just curious if there are any other Canadians who ordered? Have you received shipment yet? I hate customs and hope that you guys/gals have to wait as long as I do (kind of).
 
Got mine yesterday, must say I was a bit surprised to say the least.

On the positive side it is well balanced, sharp and has a comfortable handle. And I didn't notice any secondary bevel. To me it looks like a straight scandi. The pouch is fine.

On the negative: was the rustic look intentional? No offense but mine looks like it is unfinished, neither the blade nor the handle have been polished. I know it is a user but at this price point one would expect more, actually at any price point and lets not talk about customs. Can't even show it to a friend of mine who is a knifemaker, he would have a laughing fit. I'll polish it myself.
 
Not every knife has to be polished to be done properly. I put a satin finish on all my knives, and so does Scott Gossman.
 
I actually rather prefer that look, especially on a user knife. It was one of the draws (not drawbacks) of the Koster bushcraft for me.
 
Fiddleback said:
Not every knife has to be polished to be done properly. I put a satin finish on all my knives, and so does Scott Gossman.
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There is a difference between an intentional rough finish and a knife that simply looks unfinished.
 
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