Blade steel is becoming less important to me

I have always just left it up to the manufacturer to worry about the steel it's their reputation on the line ~ Plus I have never had any issues with rust or corrosion and I never really use them to the limit of blade implosion ~ Every blade needs to be sharpened once in a while with steady use regardless of what amount of ingredients they melt into it ⚔️
 
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I’ve often thought what the knife world would be like if the focus of blade steel was toughness and ease of sharpening rather than edge retention. The fact is no matter how long a knife stays sharp at some point it will have to be sharpened. So would I prefer to sharpen a blade for 30 minutes once a month or 5 minutes at the end of the week.
I pretty much agree with what the rest of your post says, but the part I've bolded reminds me how one knife maker answered that question (and likely ones pertaining to availability and cost as well), by using AUS-8 for years. I have several blades in that steel and like it perfectly well, at least for my doodley fiddly work.
 
How bout an opinion from a brand spanking new forum guy? Someone who can only draw a conclusion based on the new steel to me called….stainless steel.
I’ve only recently started allowing myself to buy stainless knives. Used 1095 all my life, convinced it was the best steel, for many reasons.
Since age nine I’ve been a folder user who finally grew up and kept 5 to 8 different traditional knives around for various blue collar purposes, and only 8 months ago started collecting—traditional folders.
After reading all I could concerning on-line stainless/carbon debates I’ve come to find out most knife folks have the opinion that there’s not enough difference to hold such staunch views and that each steel has their trade offs.
I’d imagine it’s pretty much the same with all these alphabet steels, of which I’ve only recently become aware.
Since most of my collection was made from the time I was unaware of the true value of SS most are from the 70s on down when most blades were 1095. Plus, it appeared to me that carbon blades seem to be a better investment concerning slip joints in the $50 to $300 range. Is that assessment correct? IDK for sure.
Long story short, I’m going to start including different steels, but think I’ll refuse to let all the many steel choices weigh me down and likely stick to either 1095/CV carbon or simple stainless blends like, D2 and 440c.
But, I might be swayed if I happen to keep hanging around you forum knife folks. I’m new to this forum, but for 5 years I’ve hung around The Fedora Lounge forum and Lord knows I’ve morphed into quite the vintage felt hat aficionado since.
 
There's no reason for me to have some extraordinary blade steel. I could care less. Most of my life I've done just fine with normal people knives. I carried a Gerber for many years and I'm pretty sure that don't even heat treat their blades.


Some recent experiences....
I bought a case #18 stockman with some kind of fancy blade steel (S35VN) and the damn thing chipped straight off. Bradford guardian has M390 steel and it's seems nice but I haven't whooped on it too much.

Give me some AEB-L. Hard and slicey.

Whatever carbon steel A Wrights uses is great too. C70 or something? You can beat the hell out of it and at the end of the day a couple passes on a stone and the edge looks great.
 
I pretty much agree with what the rest of your post says, but the part I've bolded reminds me how one knife maker answered that question (and likely ones pertaining to availability and cost as well), by using AUS-8 for years. I have several blades in that steel and like it perfectly well, at least for my doodley fiddly work.
Yep, can include Emerson as well. Gets criticized all the time for strictly using 154cm for the prices he charges. As if the steel and other materials are the only important things to determine a price. I love and pay his prices for his knives not for the materials but for his designs, ergos and functionality. To this day some of the best I’ve found. And his g10 is by far the best I’ve come across. He actually states he uses 154cm for ease of sharpening.
 
Dr. Thomas or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Magnacut

DrStrangeloveFINAL.jpg
 
Yep, can include Emerson as well. Gets criticized all the time for strictly using 154cm for the prices he charges. As if the steel and other materials are the only important things to determine a price. I love and pay his prices for his knives not for the materials but for his designs, ergos and functionality. To this day some of the best I’ve found. And his g10 is by far the best I’ve come across. He actually states he uses 154cm for ease of sharpening.
Randall Made is still using 01 and 440B and it hasn’t hurt the demand. I enjoy that the technology is growing and improving, but the cutting tasks are probably shrinking and far less than they were a century or more ago, so ancient knives can still easily serve our needs.

N2s
 
I’m new to this forum, but for 5 years I’ve hung around The Fedora Lounge forum and Lord knows I’ve morphed into quite the vintage felt hat aficionado since.
Who hasn’t?
Seriously, that’s awesome and I never knew there was such a thing. I need a vintage felt hat in my life now!
 
Blade steel was once my top priority when selecting a knife. However, with the advent of highly refined super steels, it's become a minor concern. I'm equally content with a knife made from S45VN, Magnacut, or 20CV as they share many similarities. Still, I'd balk at paying over $100 for a blade made of AUS8—ALMar, for instance—I'd consider less than $75 a fair price. Does anyone else share this sentiment? The distinctions among super steels appear to be diminishing to the point of irrelevance.
I think it's silly to assign specific price ranges to specific steels. Knives have a value proposition that's some combination of utility, design, artistry, collectability, etc, steel being one of those choices that contributes to utility (toughness, edge holding, corrosion resistance) and collectability (special edition, new technology), artistry in the context of damascus or pattern welded, and so on. The entire context of the knife needs to be considered in defining an appropriate price.
 
Randall Made is still using 01 and 440B and it hasn’t hurt the demand. I enjoy that the technology is growing and improving, but the cutting tasks are probably shrinking and far less than they were a century or more ago, so ancient knives can still easily serve our needs.

N2s
Well said and absolutely true in regards to needs and required tasks. I wish I was into knives fifteen years ago when I was still on the tools as a trim carpenter. Would’ve been using the hell out of em. Now they get mostly used for opening boxes with new knives or food prep.

I did just use my hinderer Maximus with s45vn to open a bag of dog food. Sliced through like butter so as of right now s45vn is the greatest steel ever! 😂
 
Yep, can include Emerson as well. Gets criticized all the time for strictly using 154cm for the prices he charges. As if the steel and other materials are the only important things to determine a price. I love and pay his prices for his knives not for the materials but for his designs, ergos and functionality. To this day some of the best I’ve found. And his g10 is by far the best I’ve come across. He actually states he uses 154cm for ease of sharpening.
I would love to have one of those older Green Commanders they were making back in the day ~ Such a sweet looking and working knife
 
I would love to have one of those older Green Commanders they were making back in the day ~ Such a sweet looking and working knife
Same here, I’ve always liked the commander but there’s was always another one I liked little more so never got around to getting one. Gonna have to rectify that soon. Still want a cqc15 too. But my next one will be cqc17!
 
How bout an opinion from a brand spanking new forum guy? Someone who can only draw a conclusion based on the new steel to me called….stainless steel.
I’ve only recently started allowing myself to buy stainless knives. Used 1095 all my life, convinced it was the best steel, for many reasons.
Since age nine I’ve been a folder user who finally grew up and kept 5 to 8 different traditional knives around for various blue collar purposes, and only 8 months ago started collecting—traditional folders.
After reading all I could concerning on-line stainless/carbon debates I’ve come to find out most knife folks have the opinion that there’s not enough difference to hold such staunch views and that each steel has their trade offs.
I’d imagine it’s pretty much the same with all these alphabet steels, of which I’ve only recently become aware.
Since most of my collection was made from the time I was unaware of the true value of SS most are from the 70s on down when most blades were 1095. Plus, it appeared to me that carbon blades seem to be a better investment concerning slip joints in the $50 to $300 range. Is that assessment correct? IDK for sure.
Long story short, I’m going to start including different steels, but think I’ll refuse to let all the many steel choices weigh me down and likely stick to either 1095/CV carbon or simple stainless blends like, D2 and 440c.
But, I might be swayed if I happen to keep hanging around you forum knife folks. I’m new to this forum, but for 5 years I’ve hung around The Fedora Lounge forum and Lord knows I’ve morphed into quite the vintage felt hat aficionado since.

If I'd never been offered a knife in anything but 1095 over the LIFE of my knife habit, I'd be perfectly happy.

Blade steel isn't becoming LESS important to me... I think it's really never been the all important thing to me. Blade design, ergonomics, maintainability..... those things really click with me.

I call steels like AUS-8, 1095 and VG-10 "Super Steel" because they are super affordable, super easy to maintain, and get super sharp with minimal effort (and equipment!)

Now don't get me wrong... I recognize the "superiority" of the new stuff. I think my new everything steel is CPM-154 (Still inferior to lots of you steel snobs, I know ;) )

But most of my EDC tasks involve opening mail, slicing the apple, cutting the Irish Pennon from my buttonhole, and sharpening the odd carpenters pencil.

And I don't disparage my Brothers-In-Arms who have to hack PVC and drywall all day and chop miscellaneous materials that would ruin my knives in a moment...

But that ain't me these days. So any of you makers out there wanna offer your AUS-8 folder up for grabs, consider me a taker!
 
If I'd never been offered a knife in anything but 1095 over the LIFE of my knife habit, I'd be perfectly happy.

Blade steel isn't becoming LESS important to me... I think it's really never been the all important thing to me. Blade design, ergonomics, maintainability..... those things really click with me.

I call steels like AUS-8, 1095 and VG-10 "Super Steel" because they are super affordable, super easy to maintain, and get super sharp with minimal effort (and equipment!)

Now don't get me wrong... I recognize the "superiority" of the new stuff. I think my new everything steel is CPM-154 (Still inferior to lots of you steel snobs, I know ;) )

But most of my EDC tasks involve opening mail, slicing the apple, cutting the Irish Pennon from my buttonhole, and sharpening the odd carpenters pencil.

And I don't disparage my Brothers-In-Arms who have to hack PVC and drywall all day and chop miscellaneous materials that would ruin my knives in a moment...

But that ain't me these days. So any of you makers out there wanna offer your AUS-8 folder up for grabs, consider me a taker!
I’d think cutting sheetrock would dull any steel rather quickly. Would love to know if anyone has any real world experience in that regard and how the greatest steels hold up. I could probably put one to the test tomorrow but I’m not that interested and would rather use a razor blade or keyhole saw anyway. But I am truly curious, definitely a good material to test on.
 
I hear you, but why would that matter in the real world? If I have to stop every few hours to swipe the blade a couple of times with a stone, how is that a problem.

N2s
To me some of the benefit is that the knife lasts a lot longer with the original edge geometry and blade shape. I have a bunch of old folders that were my grandfathers and the ones he carried for more than a couple years have drastically reshaped blades. If one of the principals behind having a nice high-end knife is that it lasts a lot longer, better edge retention is a contributor to that.
 
I'm really not too picky. Unlike nicer steel on expensive knives. Not because I prefer them in terms of actual use, but because if I am dropping $400+ on a folder, it better not come with a pedestrian steel.

That said, I touch up my edges enough to not get much out of the super steels.

I would say that my favorite hard use steel to come out in the last few years is Cruwear. It's a great combination of what I like in a knife.
 
To me some of the benefit is that the knife lasts a lot longer with the original edge geometry and blade shape. I have a bunch of old folders that were my grandfathers and the ones he carried for more than a couple years have drastically reshaped blades. If one of the principals behind having a nice high-end knife is that it lasts a lot longer, better edge retention is a contributor to that.
Ive thought this before also. It makes sense you are essentially buying more "cutting power" in whole than a low wear steel. It won't wear out and be reshaped as soon. I've got some 420 blades from multi tools that are drastically smaller than new. My benchmade with s30v has seen enough sharpening that it's a 1/16"-1/8" or so off the original edge sharpened down. I'm interested to see long term my knives with steels with lots of vanadium how they hold up. Needing sharpened alot less should buy a knife a longer lifetime with that best case geometry you mentioned.
 
I’d think cutting sheetrock would dull any steel rather quickly. Would love to know if anyone has any real world experience in that regard and how the greatest steels hold up. I could probably put one to the test tomorrow but I’m not that interested and would rather use a razor blade or keyhole saw anyway. But I am truly curious, definitely a good material to test on.
I cut drywall exclusively with 15v the other day and treated it like I stole it. Made all the cuts along the sheet, snapped it, finished slicing it in half, shaved whole edges down that were a hair too wide. I walked away with alot less respect for drywall. The 15v didn't care and wasn't razor sharp obviously but definitely still had a serviceable edge that would cut cleanly. No chips either, pretty tough for a high hardness. It also didn't care about the carpet I used it to remove and cut up.
 
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