Blade steel is becoming less important to me

[mitchnola]

So far, Rukus II. Runner up, Recon 1. I'm not including fixed blades here.

Bugout.

Griptilian. Runner up, Para 3.

AFO II, great knife except for the steel.

Bugout. Runners up, Griptilian, Civivi Cogent, Protech Malibu, WE Ziffius, Indiana Knives EDZ, Spyderco PM2.

Aside from junk, the Quartermaster QTR-12cc General Lee 2.

Most of the above are knives I bought years ago. More recently, there are some great knives, but none of the folders eclipse the old Benchmades. The most expensive knives I have are a large Sebenza 31 UG, which is beautiful but just not my kind of knife, and a Dead Reckon Ridgeback Modified Series 1 Body Pattern 2, which seems very sturdy but is otherwise mediocre.

But if Benchmade comes out with an AFO III with Magnacut, I will buy that in an instant. So Magnacut is still a major attraction in the right knife.

Wow, great list! Ya definitely know what ya like. But ya missing one! You need to give a Les George a try. It just might light that fire again. I’d recommend a vecp frame lock with thumb studs!!

 

[Another Shepherd]

Wow, great list! Ya definitely know what ya like. But ya missing one! You need to give a Les George a try. It just might light that fire again. I’d recommend a vecp frame lock with thumb studs!!

The trouble with that is that I hate frame locks and liner locks. The VECP button lock seems to be out of stock everywhere. Does Les George make any other cross-bar locks, compression locks, or button locks?

 

[mitchnola]

The trouble with that is that I hate frame locks and liner locks. The VECP button lock seems to be out of stock everywhere. Does Les George make any other cross-bar locks, compression locks, or button locks?

Yes, just the button lock vecp. Absolute incredible especially considering it’s on pb washers. One just sold today on the exchange. Definitely worth the effort of jumping on one in the exchange. But they go fast cause they’re great.

 

[kobold]

I'm in the same boat... I'm not gonna care if it's S35VN, S45VN or M390. But, I'm not going to even buy alphabet soup, and if it's AUS8 or AUS10 - I'll expect it to be cheap or I'm not gonna buy it at all.

What I want is to feel the difference if I'm paying more. Example being - noticing that my 3V AK47 holds the edge better and resists edge damage way more than SK5 Recon Tanto. And then my S390 custom outperforms that 3V AK47.
When it comes to folders then I feel the difference between VG10, S35VN and K390.
There is noticeable difference in use and I'm happy with that.

But would I notice any real difference between S35VN and S45VN in use?
- probably not
Same goes for SK5 and 1095.

But in reality, I have my needs covered with even more than what I'll ever trully need so I'm done with buying.

In my use and experience, there is definitely a difference. Maxamet will last me four weeks, before it stops slicing paper, M4 three weeks, LC200N SE two weeks and so on, so greater wear resistance or edge holding translates to a blade that will last longer, a knife that will see more use, cut more things before it needs to be sharpened and each sharpening (creating a burr) shortens the useful life of the blade.
Also if I have a steel that can hold its edge for four weeks vs a steel that can hold its edge for two weeks, it means I am spending half the time maintaining it.
All this to say that top shelf supersteels can actually be more economical, despite a higher price.
I also like carrying supersteels because they can negate the need for carrying any sharpening equipment, unless my trip away from home is longer than a month or so. At that point it makes sense to carry two knives.

 

[DMG]

Blade steel was once my top priority when selecting a knife. However, with the advent of highly refined super steels, it's become a minor concern. I'm equally content with a knife made from S45VN, Magnacut, or 20CV as they share many similarities. Still, I'd balk at paying over $100 for a blade made of AUS8—ALMar, for instance—I'd consider less than $75 a fair price. Does anyone else share this sentiment? The distinctions among super steels appear to be diminishing to the point of irrelevance.

For my daily use M4 and 3V are the best performers. 20cv/m390/s30v/etc chip way too easily. AUS8 and it’s peers would require daily sharpening

 

[kobold]

For my daily use M4 and 3V are the best performers. 20cv/m390/s30v/etc chip way too easily. AUS8 and it’s peers would require daily sharpening

Is it Spyderco's S30V? I was just thinking about buying a Military in S30V.

 

[PNWhovian]

Although I have a variety of decent choices I’ve been pretty happy with 3V and S35 for years. I really like the low maintenance requirements of my Boye Basic 3 or my Element Alpha-HD and keep those close year round.

 

[Chronovore]

For my daily use M4 and 3V are the best performers. 20cv/m390/s30v/etc chip way too easily. AUS8 and it’s peers would require daily sharpening

In long term use, have you noticed S30V or M390 getting less chippy after several times sharpening? The issue of fatigue from hot grinding is real and it's not just a matter of reduced edge retention. It's a matter of messing up the heat treatment along the edge and being chippy can be a symptom. How deep this effect runs can vary quite a bit. So improvement with subsequent sharpening can vary too. (So it isn't just that our edges are so much better. It's that they aren't throwing sparks as we apply them and hopefully, we are getting down to fresher steel with a more intact heat treatment.)

 

[Delgadonine]

All of my knives start out in the kitchen. Light use. Then, move on to camping, fishing, hunting or ranch use. Mid-range complexity. Then, hard use. Work, I suppose.

So, I want to try all sorts of steels.

 

[kobold]

Ideally I like having a tough fixed blade beater in 3V, 1075, 14C28N or something like that, and a gent's folder with a high edge retention steel for finer tasks.
Best of both worlds, should cover most needs.

 

[David Mary]

Blade steel was once my top priority when selecting a knife

I still consider it a priority for my knives to have blade steel.

But n all seriousness, and as has been covered every steel has a niche where it will be good. Some steels will be good everywhere.

 

[DocJD]

All this to say that top shelf supersteels can actually be more economical, despite a higher price.

If it makes you feel better about paying a 3X+ premium over already very durable steel , but unless you are doing huge amount of tough cutting or just over- sharpening , IMO it's denial .

 

[Blues]

I still consider it a priority for my knives to have blade steel.

But n all seriousness, and as has been covered every steel has a niche where it will be good. Some steels will be good everywhere.

Wait a minute. I don't thinks "some steels will be good everywhere". You shoulda quit while you were ahead.

If it makes you feel better about paying a 3X+ premium over already very durable steel , but unless you are doing huge amount of tough cutting or just over- sharpening , IMO it's denial .

3X+ premium? Methinks he doth protest too much.

 

[DocJD]

Wait a minute. I don't thinks "some steels will be good everywhere". You shoulda quit while you were ahead.




3X+ premium? Methinks he doth protest too much.

S35VN Recon 1 , for ~ $80 to 100 vs Magnacut for ~$260 .

I don't follow super steel price premiums much anymore , but I don't think they are economical .

 

[Blues]

S35VN Recon 1 , for ~ $80 to 100 vs Magnacut for ~$260 .

I don't follow super steel price premiums much anymore , but I don't think they are economical .

Oh, I meant real knives.

(Kidding.)

 

[DMG]

In long term use, have you noticed S30V or M390 getting less chippy after several times sharpening? The issue of fatigue from hot grinding is real and it's not just a matter of reduced edge retention. It's a matter of messing up the heat treatment along the edge and being chippy can be a symptom. How deep this effect runs can vary quite a bit. So improvement with subsequent sharpening can vary too. (So it isn't just that our edges are so much better. It's that they aren't throwing sparks as we apply them and hopefully, we are getting down to fresher steel with a more intact heat treatment.)

I have noticed better edge holding but no loss of chippiness after many sharpenings. I just bought a Hogue Ritter in MC because after years of use, the 20cv Ritter I have been using is at least as chippy as new. In ad a Manix XL in S30v that i sold for similar reasons.

But you are correct, the factory edge burning is a thing.

 

[DMG]

Is it Spyderco's S30V? I was just thinking about buying a Military in S30V.

Spyderco S30v did it to me in a manix but the worst was a 20cv Hogue Ritter.

 

[David Mary]

Wait a minute. I don't thinks "some steels will be good everywhere".

There are certain steels that can be pressed into any type of knife role and will serve their function, if processed and ground with that function in mind. AEBL has yet to fail me in any role I’ve given it, and I’ve had it do everything from small knife stuff to big knife stuff. But I never said these balanced “good everywhere” steels would necessarily be best in class at those tasks.

 

[Cementite]

In long term use, have you noticed S30V or M390 getting less chippy after several times sharpening? The issue of fatigue from hot grinding is real and it's not just a matter of reduced edge retention. It's a matter of messing up the heat treatment along the edge and being chippy can be a symptom. How deep this effect runs can vary quite a bit. So improvement with subsequent sharpening can vary too. (So it isn't just that our edges are so much better. It's that they aren't throwing sparks as we apply them and hopefully, we are getting down to fresher steel with a more intact heat treatment.)

Interesting, I would have expected overheating of the edge to cause the edge to get "softer"/more ductile/less chippy but I guess maybe super steels behave differently...or maybe I'm not thinking about it right. (Maybe overheating right at the edge creates a "quenching" effect where the body of the blade, by soaking up the heat, quenches the very edge, making it harder rather than softer...maybe?)

 

[Blues]

There are certain steels that can be pressed into any type of knife role and will serve their function, if processed and ground with that function in mind. AEBL has yet to fail me in any role I’ve given it, and I’ve had it do everything from small knife stuff to big knife stuff. But I never said these balanced “good everywhere” steels would necessarily be best in class at those tasks.

I probably wouldn't make a chopper from 15V but I was making a joke. Carry on.