Blade steel is becoming less important to me

[elevator man]

I guess my point is there's absolutely nothing wrong with non super steels and the good old standbys. I'd buy a knife I really wanted in 440 or a carbon steel. But there is definitely merit to the super steels and what they do too.

 

[mitchnola]

I cut drywall exclusively with 15v the other day and treated it like I stole it. Made all the cuts along the sheet, snapped it, finished slicing it in half, shaved whole edges down that were a hair too wide. I walked away with alot less respect for drywall. The 15v didn't care and wasn't razor sharp obviously but definitely still had a serviceable edge that would cut cleanly. No chips either, pretty tough for a high hardness. It also didn't care about the carpet I used it to remove and cut up.

Impressive, thanks for the input. How much did it dull from where it started? Would you say it would need to have been sharpened at the end of the day?

 

[greater]

When they start using proper steels in properly designed knives that benefit from a steel properly designed for it and heat treated, tempered, etc.... in a manner that properly exploits the benefits of that steel and stop using worthliess hype marketing as a criteria in determining what blade materials to use over what is the best blade materials to use for a blade designed for tasks that benefit the most from the steel.

Only then will the answer to whether blade steel chosen matters will become much more clear.

There is so much ignorance out there about the best uses for different steels. Not in small part due to a lack of candor from the manufactures of knives and blade steels in regards to the average knife consumer.

There sure is lots of hype and stupid garbage info though.

I don't see any blade steel manufacturers jumping in and advising any of the fools out there who suddenly decide, for example. they want to make a super long chopper out of high edge retention steel designed for and fabulous for every day cutting tasks performed by small edc knives but really lousy and even perhaps dangerous for a long chopper.

I have not seen one blade steel maker chime in and say hey bud our steel is great for what it's made for but you probably don't want to do that. You should use (proper steel for task) if you want to do that.

 

[elevator man]

I would say it depends on your level of OCD. It was shaving beforehand. After that it cut cardboard clean and I would've been ok to keep using it for awhile. There wasn't light reflecting off the edge yet. I cut up two sheets of 8 foot drywall with I'd guess 20 or so linear feet cut and 8 or so feet trimmed down after initial cuts. I used it for everything else remodeling that day also. I have that knife around 15 dps. I however am OCD and did sharpen it. I'm working on that obsessing over sharpness thing.

 

[mitchnola]

I would say it depends on your level of OCD. It was shaving beforehand. After that it cut cardboard clean and I would've been ok to keep using it for awhile. There wasn't light reflecting off the edge yet. I cut up two sheets of 8 foot drywall with I'd guess 20 or so linear feet cut and 8 or so feet trimmed down after initial cuts. I used it for everything else remodeling that day also. I have that knife around 15 dps. I however am OCD and did sharpen it. I'm working on that obsessing over sharpness thing.

Thanks man, great insight! I’ve done quite a bit of Sheetrock work in my day and I know what it does to razor blades.

 

[Chronovore]

But guys, come on. If any of you have kids who play Pokemon, you know. Gotta Catch 'em all!

On the one hand, I get tempted to try new steels. On the other hand, I just want to have an example of it on hand. Especially since my EDC rotation exploded to a ridiculous size, participating in the EDC thread here (and eventually Instagram), there is an extent to which the value of super steels is wasted on me. Still, my precious applies so I want decent steel even if I never really need it.

I'm also a relatively light user most of the time. Heavier use happens but it's often planned. Even then, I could probably be happy for the rest of my days with just 14C28N or VG-10. Heck, 9Cr18Mov with a good heat treatment is still a joy for regular EDC. I've done a lot of camping with N690. (That's regular camping though and not super-survivalist bush-crafting where I'm batoning my way through redwoods.) So while I'll I'm glad to be out with knives in Elmax or MagnaCut, it's certainly not a need.

 

[AntDog]

I’m fine with most stainless from AUS8 on up. I don’t fool with less than that. I’m a sucker for practically any carbon/tool steel - never had one I didn’t like.

I’m not a steel snob at all, but I’m most definitely a knife design snob.

 

[LostCause]

I'm in the same boat... I'm not gonna care if it's S35VN, S45VN or M390. But, I'm not going to even buy alphabet soup, and if it's AUS8 or AUS10 - I'll expect it to be cheap or I'm not gonna buy it at all.

What I want is to feel the difference if I'm paying more. Example being - noticing that my 3V AK47 holds the edge better and resists edge damage way more than SK5 Recon Tanto. And then my S390 custom outperforms that 3V AK47.
When it comes to folders then I feel the difference between VG10, S35VN and K390.
There is noticeable difference in use and I'm happy with that.

But would I notice any real difference between S35VN and S45VN in use?
- probably not
Same goes for SK5 and 1095.

But in reality, I have my needs covered with even more than what I'll ever trully need so I'm done with buying.

 

[JTR357]

Yep, can include Emerson as well. Gets criticized all the time for strictly using 154cm for the prices he charges. As if the steel and other materials are the only important things to determine a price. I love and pay his prices for his knives not for the materials but for his designs, ergos and functionality. To this day some of the best I’ve found. And his g10 is by far the best I’ve come across. He actually states he uses 154cm for ease of sharpening.

There's nothing wrong with that. EE's knives have some of the best ergo's I've ever felt in a knife. I would think he would upgrade to CPM154 at the very least, to keep up with the times.

 

[JTR357]

I cut drywall exclusively with 15v the other day and treated it like I stole it. Made all the cuts along the sheet, snapped it, finished slicing it in half, shaved whole edges down that were a hair too wide. I walked away with alot less respect for drywall. The 15v didn't care and wasn't razor sharp obviously but definitely still had a serviceable edge that would cut cleanly. No chips either, pretty tough for a high hardness. It also didn't care about the carpet I used it to remove and cut up.

& now I want a knife in 15V . I've done lots of drywall & would never dream of using anything but a utility knife for it.

 

[jfk1110]

I’m fine with most stainless from AUS8 on up. I don’t fool with less than that. I’m a sucker for practically any carbon/tool steel - never had one I didn’t like.

I’m not a steel snob at all, but I’m most definitely a knife design snob.

Here! Here!

 

[Railsplitter]

How bout an opinion from a brand spanking new forum guy? Someone who can only draw a conclusion based on the new steel to me called….stainless steel.
I’ve only recently started allowing myself to buy stainless knives. Used 1095 all my life, convinced it was the best steel, for many reasons.
Since age nine I’ve been a folder user who finally grew up and kept 5 to 8 different traditional knives around for various blue collar purposes, and only 8 months ago started collecting—traditional folders.
After reading all I could concerning on-line stainless/carbon debates I’ve come to find out most knife folks have the opinion that there’s not enough difference to hold such staunch views and that each steel has their trade offs.
I’d imagine it’s pretty much the same with all these alphabet steels, of which I’ve only recently become aware.
Since most of my collection was made from the time I was unaware of the true value of SS most are from the 70s on down when most blades were 1095. Plus, it appeared to me that carbon blades seem to be a better investment concerning slip joints in the $50 to $300 range. Is that assessment correct? IDK for sure.
Long story short, I’m going to start including different steels, but think I’ll refuse to let all the many steel choices weigh me down and likely stick to either 1095/CV carbon or simple stainless blends like, D2 and 440c.
But, I might be swayed if I happen to keep hanging around you forum knife folks. I’m new to this forum, but for 5 years I’ve hung around The Fedora Lounge forum and Lord knows I’ve morphed into quite the vintage felt hat aficionado since.

Welcome to the forum.

Considering that you like traditional knives, I’ll toss out a couple brands to explore in case you haven’t discovered them yet.

Buck, Queen, and Schatt & Morgan use mostly 420HC stainless but also offer a few models with higher grade steels.

If you really want to splurge, there is the Case/Bose lineup but those are quite expensive.

 

[hugofeynman]

I stopped caring about the steel type some time ago. Now, I just trust the maker and like the final product. The steel type is secondary.

 

[DangerZone98]

In the big candy store of shiny knife steels
People still use 440c
That's what I think about

People still use 1095!

 

[Blue Sky]

I hear you, but why would that matter in the real world? If I have to stop every few hours to swipe the blade a couple of times with a stone, how is that a problem.

N2s

He is in the real world, isn’t he?

There are definitely differences in performance between different grades of steel. Whether or not it’s important enough to make a difference, or justify the difference in cost, is really the only question.

Personally I’m fine with my AUS8 Tuff Lite but I can tell my Mini Recon in AUS10 holds an edge longer. Does it matter? A little, I must admit, but I wouldn’t pay double or triple for it.

 

[sgt1372]

I'm not a steel snob at all, but I’m most definitely a knife design snob.

Ditto.

I have knives made with all kinds of steel in my collection; virtually every type of knife steel made to date.

However, I never use any of the knives in my collection. So, the type of steel used to make the knife has almost always been irrelevant to my purchasing decision.

I buy a knife mainly because of how it is designed &/or how it looks &/or because of something otherwise unique about it that specifically appeals to me (which may, but does not necessarily, include the type of steel used to make it).

 

[Cementite]

I'm as big a sucker for the newest super steel as the next guy -- and I love M4 and CruWear -- but that said, if I plan to actually use a knife and cut a bunch of stuff with it, I'll often carry one of my Buck folders, as they get real sharp, they're easy to sharpen, and they seem to hold a edge fairly well. I think they're just vanilla 420HC or something like that...

 

[LostCause]

He is in the real world, isn’t he?

There are definitely differences in performance between different grades of steel. Whether or not it’s important enough to make a difference, or justify the difference in cost, is really the only question.

Personally I’m fine with my AUS8 Tuff Lite but I can tell my Mini Recon in AUS10 holds an edge longer. Does it matter? A little, I must admit, but I wouldn’t pay double or triple for it.

Yeah, that's why I tend to buy things that have significant differences in performance.

Like going from SK5 to 3V and then S390 custom. Which is 60€ to 150€ and then 300€. I use all 3, but the thing that I feel significant difference is what matters.

Or doing extreme jump, like having VG10 and then paying 50€ more to get similar knife in K390 which is completely different beast.

K390 and S390 are in my opinion highest performing steels that I own.
K390 folder hitting staples or steel racks in warehouse with no damage to the edge. And that is at around 64 HRC
S390 fixed blade being used to chop wood and hit and smash bones during meat processing and having no damage to the edge. Only damage I ever had on it was very minimum edge damage from hitting a rock when I stuck it into the ground. Few minutes on medium diamond was all it took to fix it. And this blade is at 66-67 HRC. That is crazy for a bigger fixed blade that's still thin behind the edge. But it just performs.

 

[Another Shepherd]

Maybe you’ve exhausted all these avenues of distinction already but what about finding the best knife in the hand,

So far, Rukus II. Runner up, Recon 1. I'm not including fixed blades here.

or the pocket.

Bugout.

The best action,

Griptilian. Runner up, Para 3.

the best deployment method,

AFO II, great knife except for the steel.

..., the best overall edc,

Bugout. Runners up, Griptilian, Civivi Cogent, Protech Malibu, WE Ziffius, Indiana Knives EDZ, Spyderco PM2.

the worst edc…

Aside from junk, the Quartermaster QTR-12cc General Lee 2.

Most of the above are knives I bought years ago. More recently, there are some great knives, but none of the folders eclipse the old Benchmades. The most expensive knives I have are a large Sebenza 31 UG, which is beautiful but just not my kind of knife, and a Dead Reckon Ridgeback Modified Series 1 Body Pattern 2, which seems very sturdy but is otherwise mediocre.

But if Benchmade comes out with an AFO III with Magnacut, I will buy that in an instant. So Magnacut is still a major attraction in the right knife.

 

[Therom]

For me steel is still important but way less than it was a couple of years ago and for different reasons.

if previously I was focusing on testing new steels and experiencing with them, now I focus on what has worked for my use

I care more about edge stability and ease of sharpening than pure edge retention

154CM, 14c28n or better is fine but I don’t dismiss a knife just for its steel