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- May 29, 2004
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Yes! That was my point - you just got there a whole lot quicker.Now to be fair some knives are very froe like and probably are fine to baton with. But they are not what I want to use for knife tasks.
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Yes! That was my point - you just got there a whole lot quicker.Now to be fair some knives are very froe like and probably are fine to baton with. But they are not what I want to use for knife tasks.
There’s been examples of Skramas breaking, but it’s so rare that I have written off as some other unintentional flaw.
can easily break down a good sized log if used to take sections off the edges rather than beating the knife directly through the thickest part.
..."If you like the idea of going car camping and beating your Becker until your hand is rawgo for it"...
Agreed! I have an ESEE 6 that I’ve used to split a lot of oak firewood before I got my Kindling Cracker, and that ESEE would flex to a disturbing degree when batoning through a knot, but it would spring back to original shape as soon as it pushed on down through.Okay now kiss
Grab a Becker or ESEE and just absolutely wail on it. You'll be impressed and you won't be able to go back.
I think the molded rubber takes quite a bit of the shock out though.The injection-molded(?) handle is likely to fail long before the steel. Think we've seen examples of that shown here.
What I saw that you stated, way back at the top of page 1 of this thread, was this:In the context of a knife, a finger choil of appr. 1" with properly chamfered edges etc. is not much of a stress riser in practice; though perhaps mathematically in theory. A narrow V-groove, repeated tenfold - aka jimping - is. And that is what I stated.
All smarmy attitudes and sarcastic winking aside...What I saw that you stated, way back at the top of page 1 of this thread, was this:
"the jimping is broader but has finely machined troughs. No stress risers there!"
Not true.
While it might seem like arguing over distinctions without a difference, I guess my larger point was that if you're gonna pull out and swing around your big ... brain ... by using terms like "stress riser," you should probably use them accurately. And to refer to any discontinuity -- whether it's a radiused, chamfered jimping groove in a knife, a ripple in a weld bead, or even a scratch on a pane of glass -- as "no stress riser there!" demonstrates a fundamental lack of understanding of the concept.
Thanks for the metallurgy book suggestions, but I suspect I already have them.![]()
All smarmy attitudes and sarcastic winking aside...
Technically any cut out, groove, or indentation on the blade will be a stress riser. But TC says "in practice"and I tend to think that in practice his statement is correct.
With the proper steel/heat treatment, and with well-designed jimping (larger more rounded, chamfered grooves vs sharp cut-outs as discussed) I think the risk of breakage at the jimping vs. somewhere else on the blade specifically due to there being stress risers is essentially equal. In practice.
YesAll this talk has me curious on a crowned spine vs a square edge spine would be stronger. Would the more narrow contact area on a crowned spine increase the shock on the impacted area vs the square edge more evenly distributing the impact?
thread just needs more math.......I don't know why some people have a hard time understanding, properly machined jimping with a radius in the trough makes failures a statistically inconsequential decimal place. Yes removing material left some form of stress risers. I understand. We understand.
The point is improperly cut notches in metal results in failures, a radius that reduces that stress riser all but erases that failure in knives. If a radius was barely any advantage over a sharp angle, ok, I understand the nit picking. But... it isn't. Adding a proper radius is night and day, drastically, clearly superior as it reduces the stress point very significantly. Crying out loud.
Math is great, while people are quibbling over numbers radiuses are being machined into parts as we speak in the real world, for very real reasons lolthread just needs more math.......
I appreciate that non-jimped knives are Better and somebody has the numbers to prove it..... Hahhaha!Math is great, while people are quibbling over numbers radiuses are being machined into parts as we speak in the real world, for very real reasons lol
Jimping.. a point of contention for as long as humans have had tools.I appreciate that non-jimped knives are Better and somebody has the numbers to prove it..... Hahhaha!![]()
You should post a pic of the offending branch, so that we know what it was that exceeded it's limits.I guess I took the Odenwolf in full flat (D2 steel) a little to far. Got into a big knot in some hardwood and was really wailing on it and then snap. I have the scandi grind version of the same knife that I'm sure could have taken the abuse. I have been using this guy for a while and have batoned through many pieces of wood but now I see the limitations of the full flat grind. I have definitely put mora's, even of slightly thinner stock, through more, but again those were all scandi ground, and not D2, ha. Overall, based on everthing else I have done with this knife, I would not hesitate to buy it again. It holds a great edge, did not have chipping or rolling issues with light chopping and carving into hard wood. I would just avoid batoning through dense knots in hard work, ha.
I plan on replacing with an Eafengrow EF131. Seems to me that a broken knife is worthy of a new knife purchase!
What I saw that you stated, way back at the top of page 1 of this thread, was this:
"the jimping is broader but has finely machined troughs. No stress risers there!"
Not true.
And almost forty years later is still quotable.Yes.
But look at it this way, in knife terms: When Crocodile Dundee said "That's not a knife, THIS is a knife" - he was scientifically incorrect.
But he made a point we here can all relate to.