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Jag, well said. I could not agree more!
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Buck 110 vs Modern Folders
- Thread starter raja
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Jill,
There's a reason why some of us Buck fans seek out the older ones from the 70s (and perhaps, early 80s). At that time, Buck used 440C, which precluded the use of fine blanking as is done with the 420HC models. My understanding is that this led to tighter tolerances. They also didn't use bronze bushings in the pivot, so a little less smooth but more durable.
This said, I think your use isn't a good fit for the lock back design.
Leghog,
Like you, I dig the 110. But I have no problem with what Jill is saying. The joint on the 110 (and other traditional flat peened lockbacks) just isn't that robust.
IMO, this shouldn't upset lovers of the Buck 110 any more than (to borrow Jared's analogy) that the superiority of modern fuel injected engines should upset fans of the '68 Camaro.
Big folders by Pinnah, on Flickr
I love my 2 dot Buck 110 and continue to carry my script Duke, which is a very lovely knife. When Jill (correctly) says that other knives are tougher, that doesn't upset me in the least. I agree with her. Toughest knife (not even close) in that set above is the Opinel.
Note by the way, there's a sub-text to this discussion. By most accounts, current Buck 110s are simply not the same as the ones from the 70s, which built their reputation. Sort of like comparing the current Winchester lever action to the old ones. If you've been using a 2 or 3 dot 110 and Jill has been using a newer one, you guys are using really different knives.
Knife mechanics I've talked to report that the bronze bushings wear and deform, introducing play.
^^ This ^^
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I've got several 110 knives. I bought one of them at Bucks factory over in Idaho. (Have been on the tour several times with various family members.) I have one of the Cabelas S30V versions. The 110 is a classic, no doubt about it.
That said, the last time I used a 110 was after getting our limit on geese while hunting. I was reminded of why I much prefer a fixed blade knife for cleaning game . . . much easier/quicker to clean up afterwards.
Though I have several 110s, its been a long time since I carried one. It comes down to the weight, bulk, and versatility. In that size & weight of a pouch knife I can have a multi-tool instead. So, for me getting the 110s was a matter of supporting a US manufacturing company & a bit of nostalgia. I wonder how many other fans of the 110 like myself actually carry them much today ?
That said, the last time I used a 110 was after getting our limit on geese while hunting. I was reminded of why I much prefer a fixed blade knife for cleaning game . . . much easier/quicker to clean up afterwards.
Though I have several 110s, its been a long time since I carried one. It comes down to the weight, bulk, and versatility. In that size & weight of a pouch knife I can have a multi-tool instead. So, for me getting the 110s was a matter of supporting a US manufacturing company & a bit of nostalgia. I wonder how many other fans of the 110 like myself actually carry them much today ?
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< delete double post >
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You make a fair point, I would never use my 110's as hard as my opinels. I definitely think that the 110 is fantastic at doing what it does best, being a folding hunter, but I do love my opinel no 8.
GronK
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- 19,289
The thing is the OP merely stated it might have been a Buck 110. He passed the guy and just saw a sheath. So, really no one talked to outfitter, we don't know for sure what the knife was. We also don't even know how pleased the man was with the knife, whatever it may have been. For all we know he might have had a 700 dollar custom in that sheath. I carry a 475 dollar Strider in a Gerber sheath, while hiking. Someone could pass me and say look at that dumbass carrying a Gerber. I guess a Gerber fulfills her requirements.
So just stop and explain what it is in the pouch and how much you paid. l suspect that may reinforce the opinion. I carry a vintage Gerber Gator regularly and love it.
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- Aug 31, 2014
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Yep....
The Buck is fine.
There are better knives.
There are worse knives.
If someone likes it and it works for them, cool.
No need to make it seem better than it is though.
Likewise, no reason to make it seem worse than it is either.
This, Buck makes solid, reliable knives made in America (or mostly) and they have fantastic customer service. I am a sucker for the traditional design though.
I knew I wasn't crazy; 110 Lochsa. S30V, thumbstud, G-10 and a pocket clip.
http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/BU...-blade-g10-handles-50th-anniversary-0110bksns
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I like my bucks, but cmmon $222?? 
thats crazy. Ill make my own for that!
thats crazy. Ill make my own for that!
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My first 110 lasted over 30 years as my ONLY daily use folder. Actually, it lasted longer than that. I still have it. I just retired it from daily use in 2001 when I got laid off from my "corporate job", and began working for myself and could carry my dual fixed blades all the time, not just when not at work. So the 110 in its belt sheath was replaced with paired, smaller "pocket Bucks"
Until last week, I still only used Buck folders as my daily carry folders. (My favorite nephew gave me a brand-spanking new Case trapper for my 60th that will have to be worked into my folder rotation).
In my opinion, and it's just that, an opinion, like every one is entitled to have, a 110 will hold up just as well as any other folder out there if used for what folding knives are designed to be used for - to cut stuff.
Will it hold up to batonning? Nope.
Will it hold up to being used as a machete, clearing vines, limbs, brush, etc? Nyet.
Will it survive being used as a pry bar? Not for long.
Will it open up one handedly faster than a cobra strike? No way,Jose. (despite the ability to be convolutedly being opened one-handed).
If one believes that a folding knife that can be opened quickly with one hand, can handle batonning, prying, chopping is the cat's meow, then
GET A FIXED BLADE.
A fixed bladed knife will ALWAYS open faster than ANY folder.
It can be cleaned faster and more easily than any folder.
It can be used as a machete, a pry bar, wedge, hammer, paint/caulk scraper or any other non-knife tool for a far longer period before failure than any folder.
And a fixed blade will NEVER accidentally close on the user's finger.
All knives will fail eventually, even fixed blades. Usually when being used as a "not-a-knife" tool, but occasionally for real knife related tasks. How long they last is determined by the method of usage more than by method of construction.
I have NEVER had a folding knife pivot fail, had a folding knife blade bend or had a lock-back lock fail.
But then I have never used a folding knife as a pry bar, batonned anything with a folder, beat on a folding knife with a hammer, billet of wood, etc.
Is a "modern" knife better than a 110? Again, in my opinion, no. A modern knife is just different from a 110.
It's kinda like if my nephew said his BMW is better than my 1929 Model A.
His will go faster.
His will get better mileage.
His has air conditioning (and a heater, too. )
His has softer seats.
His has one of those new-fangled things called an automatic transmission.
His has (oh-no, gasp ) TURN SIGNALS!!!!!!
Mine will still run after the EMP from an air burst takes out everyone else's fancy computer controlled cars.
So which is better? Depends on the circumstances.
Until last week, I still only used Buck folders as my daily carry folders. (My favorite nephew gave me a brand-spanking new Case trapper for my 60th that will have to be worked into my folder rotation).
In my opinion, and it's just that, an opinion, like every one is entitled to have, a 110 will hold up just as well as any other folder out there if used for what folding knives are designed to be used for - to cut stuff.
Will it hold up to batonning? Nope.
Will it hold up to being used as a machete, clearing vines, limbs, brush, etc? Nyet.
Will it survive being used as a pry bar? Not for long.
Will it open up one handedly faster than a cobra strike? No way,Jose. (despite the ability to be convolutedly being opened one-handed).
If one believes that a folding knife that can be opened quickly with one hand, can handle batonning, prying, chopping is the cat's meow, then
GET A FIXED BLADE.
A fixed bladed knife will ALWAYS open faster than ANY folder.
It can be cleaned faster and more easily than any folder.
It can be used as a machete, a pry bar, wedge, hammer, paint/caulk scraper or any other non-knife tool for a far longer period before failure than any folder.
And a fixed blade will NEVER accidentally close on the user's finger.
All knives will fail eventually, even fixed blades. Usually when being used as a "not-a-knife" tool, but occasionally for real knife related tasks. How long they last is determined by the method of usage more than by method of construction.
I have NEVER had a folding knife pivot fail, had a folding knife blade bend or had a lock-back lock fail.
But then I have never used a folding knife as a pry bar, batonned anything with a folder, beat on a folding knife with a hammer, billet of wood, etc.
Is a "modern" knife better than a 110? Again, in my opinion, no. A modern knife is just different from a 110.
It's kinda like if my nephew said his BMW is better than my 1929 Model A.
His will go faster.
His will get better mileage.
His has air conditioning (and a heater, too.
)His has softer seats.
His has one of those new-fangled things called an automatic transmission.
His has (oh-no, gasp
) TURN SIGNALS!!!!!!Mine will still run after the EMP from an air burst takes out everyone else's fancy computer controlled cars.
So which is better? Depends on the circumstances.
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Very well said!
The OP asked "your thoughts please on how the Buck 110 stacks up against the modern one-hand opening, pocket knives in real-world use."
"Real-world use" is a very subjective and individual thing.
I received my 110 when I was 12 years old (I'm now 45). I didn't start buying "modern one-hand opening" knives until I was 31. So for 19 years that 110 was my main cutting tool, and it saw a lot of use. I used to do a lot of backpacking and camping when I was young ("roughing it", no RV's or "improved" campsites), and my 110 was my camp knife, and something I had to depend on for basic survival.
I've carved and whittled a lot sticks and tree branches with my 110, produced a lot of wood shavings for fire starting, cleaned and skinned countless fish and small game, and cut a lot of rope, as well as a variety of other uses.
As a teen my 110 also became my work knife. I used that knife to cut rope, twine, rubber hose, cardboard, and plastic.
As an adult, even after buying "modern" folders, I continued to use my 110 for work at home, specifically cutting tanned cowhide (3/16ths" to 1/4" thick). I like the 110 for cutting leather because of the fine hollow-ground edge and the large, full handle.
And yet, despite 19 years of regular use (and being dropped several times), my 110 hasn't fallen apart, or broken, and it still locks up as solid as the day I got it. The blade has loosened at the pivot only twice that I can remember over the years, and when this happened all it took was a few whacks with a hammer and it was tight again (I didn't have to buy some type of special driver to tighten the pivot).
As for my experience with "modern" folders, the two "modern" folders that I have carried and used the most are a Benchmade AFCK, and a Bradley Alias. Each of these knives saw a lot of use at work cutting rope, twine, plastic pallet wrap and plastic packing straps. After a few days of use, and repeated openings, the pivot of each knife would loosen and require tightening. And on one occasion I almost lost the Bradley when the pocket-clip got snagged on something and the knife got lifted out of my pocket without me knowing it. I've never come close to ever losing my 110 carried in it's belt-sheath.
Today my 110 is a "house knife". I use it at home mainly for cutting leather. I came to dislike the BM AFCK and replaced it as my EDC with the Bradley Alias. The Alias is the folder I carry most often these days (sometimes I carry a BM Darkstar).
Although the pivot on every Benchmade I have ever owned (7 knives) would loosen after repeated opening, I wouldn't characterize them as junk or poorly designed. Quite the contrary, my Alias (made by Benchmade) is my #1 folder and it doesn't bother me one bit that the pivot requires regular tightening (I did have to buy a set of torx bits).
Now I don't know what other people are using their folders for, or what type of tasks they expect a folder to be able to handle, but for me using a folder as a prybar, or to baton firewood, do not constitute "real-word use". All of my folding knives are cutting tools, hand tools, and that is all I expect from them. I don't try to hammer them through anything, and I have no reason to apply heavy lateral force against their blades, or apply heavy pressure to the spines of the blades.
Based on how I use my folders (cutting stuff), there is nothing that any of my "modern" folders can do that my Buck 110 can't do just as well. In fact, because of that ultra-fine hollow-ground edge, my 110 is BETTER at cutting leather than any of my "modern" folders (Spyderco Military, Al Mar SERE 2000, various Benchmades). And furthermore, the large, thick handle of the 110, and the lack of a pocket-clip, make the 110 a lot more comfortable to use when I have to grip it tightly all day while cutting 1/4" cowhide.
And those are my personal thoughts, and individual firsthand experience, on how the Buck 110 stacks up against MY modern, one-hand opening pocket knives in real-world use. Would I buy another 110 today? Yes I would, in a heartbeat, specifically for cutting leather. Like I said, the ultra-fine edge and full, thick handle serve that need perfectly for me. Although I would buy one with a higher grade of steel.
On a side note, I have often seen it written on this forum that if you have a problem with a knife you purchased, like if it proves to be defective, that you should contact the maker and give them the chance to make it right BEFORE you take to the internet to disparage the knife. This seems to me to be a simple matter of courtesy, and something I agree with.
Considering how long Buck has been making the 110, and considering how many have been produced, it certainly wouldn't surprise me if some bad ones got through QC. I personally wouldn't judge an entire model of knife based on the poor performance of a single piece.
"Real-world use" is a very subjective and individual thing.
I received my 110 when I was 12 years old (I'm now 45). I didn't start buying "modern one-hand opening" knives until I was 31. So for 19 years that 110 was my main cutting tool, and it saw a lot of use. I used to do a lot of backpacking and camping when I was young ("roughing it", no RV's or "improved" campsites), and my 110 was my camp knife, and something I had to depend on for basic survival.
I've carved and whittled a lot sticks and tree branches with my 110, produced a lot of wood shavings for fire starting, cleaned and skinned countless fish and small game, and cut a lot of rope, as well as a variety of other uses.
As a teen my 110 also became my work knife. I used that knife to cut rope, twine, rubber hose, cardboard, and plastic.
As an adult, even after buying "modern" folders, I continued to use my 110 for work at home, specifically cutting tanned cowhide (3/16ths" to 1/4" thick). I like the 110 for cutting leather because of the fine hollow-ground edge and the large, full handle.
And yet, despite 19 years of regular use (and being dropped several times), my 110 hasn't fallen apart, or broken, and it still locks up as solid as the day I got it. The blade has loosened at the pivot only twice that I can remember over the years, and when this happened all it took was a few whacks with a hammer and it was tight again (I didn't have to buy some type of special driver to tighten the pivot).
As for my experience with "modern" folders, the two "modern" folders that I have carried and used the most are a Benchmade AFCK, and a Bradley Alias. Each of these knives saw a lot of use at work cutting rope, twine, plastic pallet wrap and plastic packing straps. After a few days of use, and repeated openings, the pivot of each knife would loosen and require tightening. And on one occasion I almost lost the Bradley when the pocket-clip got snagged on something and the knife got lifted out of my pocket without me knowing it. I've never come close to ever losing my 110 carried in it's belt-sheath.
Today my 110 is a "house knife". I use it at home mainly for cutting leather. I came to dislike the BM AFCK and replaced it as my EDC with the Bradley Alias. The Alias is the folder I carry most often these days (sometimes I carry a BM Darkstar).
Although the pivot on every Benchmade I have ever owned (7 knives) would loosen after repeated opening, I wouldn't characterize them as junk or poorly designed. Quite the contrary, my Alias (made by Benchmade) is my #1 folder and it doesn't bother me one bit that the pivot requires regular tightening (I did have to buy a set of torx bits).
Now I don't know what other people are using their folders for, or what type of tasks they expect a folder to be able to handle, but for me using a folder as a prybar, or to baton firewood, do not constitute "real-word use". All of my folding knives are cutting tools, hand tools, and that is all I expect from them. I don't try to hammer them through anything, and I have no reason to apply heavy lateral force against their blades, or apply heavy pressure to the spines of the blades.
Based on how I use my folders (cutting stuff), there is nothing that any of my "modern" folders can do that my Buck 110 can't do just as well. In fact, because of that ultra-fine hollow-ground edge, my 110 is BETTER at cutting leather than any of my "modern" folders (Spyderco Military, Al Mar SERE 2000, various Benchmades). And furthermore, the large, thick handle of the 110, and the lack of a pocket-clip, make the 110 a lot more comfortable to use when I have to grip it tightly all day while cutting 1/4" cowhide.
And those are my personal thoughts, and individual firsthand experience, on how the Buck 110 stacks up against MY modern, one-hand opening pocket knives in real-world use. Would I buy another 110 today? Yes I would, in a heartbeat, specifically for cutting leather. Like I said, the ultra-fine edge and full, thick handle serve that need perfectly for me. Although I would buy one with a higher grade of steel.
On a side note, I have often seen it written on this forum that if you have a problem with a knife you purchased, like if it proves to be defective, that you should contact the maker and give them the chance to make it right BEFORE you take to the internet to disparage the knife. This seems to me to be a simple matter of courtesy, and something I agree with.
Considering how long Buck has been making the 110, and considering how many have been produced, it certainly wouldn't surprise me if some bad ones got through QC. I personally wouldn't judge an entire model of knife based on the poor performance of a single piece.
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last I checked the purpose of a knife is to cut stuff. if we stick with this assumption then why not a buck110? The blade can be razor sharp and it is very sturdy. Yes it is not quite as sturdy as a more modern knife but if you are just cutting stuff then why do you need anything more than this?
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