Buck Sharpening Methods

I was gifted a WorkSharp by my Brother David with the basic belts..But even after watching a few videos I still managed to 'slightly' mess up one of the BG42 blades on my Club 301..Do you have any advice for using one of those? I am determined to get my S35VN 112 back to the factory sharp it came with.
 
Go slow with a light touch. With power grinders it is easy to mess up the thin metal of a edge. DM
 
bucksway said:
But even after watching a few videos I still managed to 'slightly' mess up one of the BG42 blades on my Club 301.
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Can you describe your problems? I'm considering getting one and would just as soon profit from your experience.

Bert
 
I'm not sure exactly what I did wrong. My first mistake was not using a well lighted area but I think carpal tunnel was the issue. I just couldn't feel the knife in my hand well..20210223_115432.jpg
 
bertel the Work Sharp is a fantastic way to sharpen most anything. For kitchen knives its the best I've ever used. But with my 301 I was struggling to hold it steady and it rotated in my hand and I put to much pressure pushing against the belt (I think lol?) So I highly recommend it but I'm sending the 301 back to Buck to 'fix' it because it is my absolute favorite 300 Series Buck and the only BG42 steel knife I have. I am seriously challenged by normal ways to sharpen any knife especially freehand on a stone perhaps mostly by the mysterious 'burr' you have to get rid of to have a good working edge. Eyesight is another challenge to overcome for me in the process..
 
Bucksway, Just a quick thought, what if you made something to make the knife bigger in your hand where you could feel the upright position better. As far as eye sight try a magnifier you wear.

Since it is a gouge, I would just wait for multiple sharpenings to take it out, otherwise you will have to have a lot of steel (life) removed to make it look good.
 
Bucksway, I think the Work Sharp has a lot of similarity to a belt sander in woodworking. One difference is that with the Work Sharp you move the piece to the belt. With a belt sander you move the belt to the wood. Either way, initial contact at the right angle is important, that and keeping the belt moving relative to the workpiece. Otherwise, it's easy to form a gouge.
 
It looks to me that at that point of the gouge you stopped moving the knife.You have to keep motion coming back to you and stop before the tip comes to the edge of the belt. I wear a headlight to see the blade better and when the tip is getting close to the edge of the belt. I use the slowest speed and a fine grit belt.
 
Buck will do a great job with the BG42..Better than I can. The plan for the Work Sharp is to take it outside in good natural light and watch MORE videos to improve my technique. With the number of Bucks of all kinds I put in rotation I have a seldom need to sharpen a lot of at one time.
 
I've had one for a while, one of the first models. I messed up a couple of 300's by using the blade guide. I did better by free-handing the edge on a fine belt. I bought some super fine belts and was careful and polished up an edge you could see yourself in.
I do not like the angle guides they would over grind the blade near the tang.
 
Sharpening scissors:
Buck has mfg. some scissors in the past so in case you have a pair, I thought I would go there. It is best to take them apart and work each blade separately.
Work the flats on the inside of the blade layed flat on the stone. Pushing into the edge with no lift. If you'll be using them to cut up fish or chicken a fine India is enough. If you'll be cutting cloth with them take the edge to 5-600 grit. For hair, 800- 1K grit. Work the blade until you feel a good edge return. On these a diamond stone would be my last choice. When you put them back together make sure the blades fit tight / snug. Then test them on a near material use. I keep scraps of denim on hand to test them on food like material. Good luck. DM
 
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Ladies pay good money for quality long bladed textile scissors. If you doubt it Google pinking shears. And she will be discriminating on how they preform. So, practice some before doing a pair for a seamstress. DM
 
No. I use a V sharpener. Can't seen to get the hang of stone sharpening. I do have the Buck stone kit with the knife holder jig.
 
The Buck stone holder jig should work. Start with the coarse stone and rub it until you feel a burr on the opposite side. Flip it over and do the same. Then lightly work that burr off. Also, the Edge pro is simple. DM
 
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Buck's Honemaster model 136 works great. They are hard to find. I've stumbled on to them at gun shows. Good luck. DM
 
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