Buck Sharpening Methods

kwackster said:
Some USB-pictures i took of the unused & armhair shaving sharp factory edge of an 2010 Buck 110 blade:
I used this specific 110 blade to replace the worn out one in an older 560 model:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/buck-560-reblade.1787031/
Click to expand...

The factory edge on a new Buck has always been my favorite, it has some coarseness, yet shaves and stays sharper longer. I think I have gotten them as sharp or sharper but they just don't seem to last as long as the factory edge. And maintaining the same bevel. Sometimes I wonder if it's because I subconsciously baby it knowing it's new but I don't know.
The grit on the paper wheels as I recall is 180 grit and as I recall that's what the guy in the Buck repair dept said they use, but mine seems way finer than the factory edge. The coarsest diamond stone I've used is the black extra course DMT but it wore smooth (prematurely in my opinion) and I havn't tried anything else.
 
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Yes, that's what my x coarse plate did. ^
I like a 180 grit SiC stone.
Kwack, what magnification is that at? DM
 
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According to my USB-microscope about 200 X, but i don't know how accurate these things really are,
 
I use a Ib6 stone for my 303 cadet which is coarse/fine but I also have a india fine stone that has FB14 fine listing on the box. This smaller stone seems to be a finer grit then the larger stones fine side. Does a good job on finishing or touching up.
 
Anyone use a sharpening steel rod? Saw one in a pawn shop the other day but I have no experience with one. Thanks.
 
Thanks for the info Bertl and David. I've always been satisfied with my India stones. When I was a kid watching my dad sharpen his knife I always got a kick out of when he was finished he would always draw the edge of the blade over his thumb nail. If the blade drew a a slight scratch he said it was finished.
 
Veltic, you can do the same thing ( straightening a burred edge) on your stone. You don't necessarily need a steel rod. DM
 
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