C36GTIP First Look - Military, CPM-M4, Ti/G10!

I thought I would leave my M4 Millie in the Fort Knox in the box but away with the box, I don't keep those boxes, never did, never will. I put the M4 in my pocket and will EDC it for a while. Yes I will keep it and use it. After all it is only a knife, new ones come out all the time. One day we will have CPM Super 1000 steel that can cut through a M1 tank and still shave. I do use all of my knives or intend to use them and they sit in my safe until they get in my rotation. Well this will go in now and get some use.


RickJ
 
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UPDATE: I tightened the pivot screw a micro turn and the blade dropped right into dead center position and the funny result was my action feels even smoother than before which already was pretty good. I've yet to visually or cogently analyze why but it was noticeable to me. Also, the pivot was already very tight. It took all my strength to tighten it down that extra micro turn without heating the screw and/or stripping it but I did it. I barely felt the nudge when it turned.

Does anyone know if this is a bushing? I thought not.

Although the OOTB sharpness was never a gripe, I also ran the edge over my AG Russell Ceramic Sharpener a few times then stropped it with my KnivesPlus loaded strop and this knife pops hairs before the edge even touches the hair now :D I can also comment that the Spyderco heat treated CPM M4 steel feels VERY hard. There was literally no feeling of bite on the ceramic rods. But they did the trick even if it felt like I was stroking the edge on glass. It must have only been a wire edge. The edge grind is really thin and even so this knife is a major slicer now!

Regardless, one of three minor gripes is gone. Of course I can live with that super faint horizontal scratch on the blade and the minor grind burn.


Success! :D
The blade is 96% to 99% centered but not dead centered.
 
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Great result! Nope, no bushing.

UPDATE: I tightened the pivot screw a micro turn and the blade dropped right into dead center position and the funny result was my action feels even smoother than before which already was pretty good. I've yet to visually or cogently analyze why but it was noticeable to me. Also, the pivot was already very tight. It took all my strength to tighten it down that extra micro turn without heating the screw and/or stripping it but I did it. I barely felt the nudge when it turned.

Does anyone know if this is a bushing? I thought not.

Although the OOTB sharpness was never a gripe, I also ran the edge over my AG Russell Ceramic Sharpener a few times then stropped it with my KnivesPlus loaded strop and this knife pops hairs before the edge even touches the hair now :D I can also comment that the Spyderco heat treated CPM M4 steel feels VERY hard. There was literally no feeling of bite on the ceramic rods. But they did the trick even if it felt like I was stroking the edge on glass. It must have only been a wire edge. The edge grind is really thin and even so this knife is a major slicer now!

Regardless, one of three minor gripes is gone. Of course I can live with that super faint horizontal scratch on the blade and the minor grind burn.


Success! :D
 
I got mine, and it was pretty flawless save not being able to scrape hair. Since the edge is quite thin and acute it only took some swipes on the sharpmaker and the some swipes on the 1 micron and .3 micron lapping films to get it really sharp in only a couple minutes. Hair whittling goodness with CPM M4 is so easy, I just love this steel. As stated above, the steel seemed quite hard and crisp on the bones, it will be interesting to see how hard it is.

Mike
 
after really looking over the new m4 millie the only imperfection i could see was a little uneven grinding on the blade.. at the base it was a little more acute on one side.. nothing to worry about since once i have one of the sharpening gods on the forum (Ankerson) put an edge on it they will prob make the blade more acute from the factory edge anyway. even the more acute part of the blade will prob need to be brought back some. so no probs there.. factory edges always suck anyway.

other then that a few drops of lube in the piviot and the knife is perfect.
 
after really looking over the new m4 millie the only imperfection i could see was a little uneven grinding on the blade.. at the base it was a little more acute on one side.. nothing to worry about since once i have one of the sharpening gods on the forum (Ankerson) put an edge on it they will prob make the blade more acute from the factory edge anyway. even the more acute part of the blade will prob need to be brought back some. so no probs there.. factory edges always suck anyway.

other then that a few drops of lube in the piviot and the knife is perfect.

In my experience with Spyderco in particular, all my knives have been scary sharp. No "suck" about that.
 
I've yet to visually or cogently analyze why but it was noticeable to me.


probably because getting the tightness just right will apply more even pressure to the washers against the scales as the lock bar is constantly pressing against the blade.

if the pivot is loose, the pressure from the lockbar is causing the blade to be slightly angled, and putting more pressure on the outside edge of the washers.

At least that's my theory!

and yes, no bushing, standard pivot on this one
 
I put the M4 in my pocket and will EDC it for a while. Yes I will keep it and use it. After all it is only a knife, new ones come out all the time.

Another way to look at it is this - when you croak and your wife's next husband gets your knives, do you want him to get a sweet, virginous Ti/G10 Military with box and papers, or a worn out, beat up user that is covered with pig blood and pine tar? I say he gets the latter.
 
In my experience with Spyderco in particular, all my knives have been scary sharp. No "suck" about that.

i'm not saying it isn't sharp but factory edges are usually never uniform and even and are usually not the angle u would want in a knife.. like i said a 1/4 spot at the bottom of the blade with a sharpening angle that is more acute on one side isn't a problem but it's def noticeable. seems either the person/machine that did it tilted the knife back at the spot a little too much. and there are a few scratches i can see on the blade going across to the sypy hole if i look at it in a bright light they are not bad though . more hairline scratches and need a light to seem. once u go to put a nice edge since they will bring the edge back further it should be evened up since they will push the edge back further. i'm just telling any imperfections i see with the knife. this one not being a big one since once sharpened properly it will be gone. but yes the edge is very sharp
 
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Another way to look at it is this - when you croak and your wife's next husband gets your knives, do you want him to get a sweet, virginous Ti/G10 Military with box and papers, or a worn out, beat up user that is covered with pig blood and pine tar? I say he gets the latter.

My friend, you just gave me a whole new perspective. :D
 
I'm still waiting for mine to be delivered, but how about M4 corrosion resistance? It is worse than CMP-D2 military? I've D2 military with couple of dots, which I've found almost immadiatelly when knife was not cleaned to dry.
 
I'm still waiting for mine too. My M4 Mule was used for "kitchen duty" for 6 months. While it did dis-color, it never rusted. My D2 Millie hasn't rusted either though, I always keep a light coat of oil on all my knives. I use olive oil for knives used in the kitchen.
 
Visitor message sent to you KNaB about forced patina. I really like my GB

Much better with a patina.
 
ah, man, that's nice. just picked mine up; wasn't 100% about hanging on to it but now I am. it's not going to take over primary EDC duties, but it's pretty much perfect and there's no way in hell I'm getting rid of it. just need to get it tapped for tip-up carry and it'll be golden (not just from golden). great work, and thanks, to sal, roger, and all at spyderco and KW. :thumbup:
 
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