Caly 3.5 Super Blue

I never had problems with red rust on my knife with super blue steel. I don't keep it oiled, just clean it after every use. It does get a patina though, as expected.
But the best thing is the sharpening. Very easy and the edge 'bites' for a very long time.
My neck knife fell on a cobble stone floor and had a dent of ~1mm in the edge. The edge was mostly bent, maybe chipped a little as well, but I wouldn't say it is brittle. 10 minutes on a 1000 grit water stone and it is out. I wouldn't want to imagine how long it would have taken with a high end stainless steel.
 
If you pay msrp you can get it straight from spyderco I beleive
Click to expand...

Yeah,A bit pricey for me right now. I'm just waiting to see if my pre order went through just like everybody else. :)
 
The Mastiff said:
Do you mean the VG10 version that Super Blue sprint is a variant of? VG10 and S30V are pretty much the standard steels with some new ones starting to be produced. It's been that way for several years.

It's strange hearing this complaint as it's usually people asking for sprints with different steels like the Super blue Caly 3.5. There is also 440C, and BD1 if you want.....You know, I don't know what you want. Do you mean softer as in lower hardness, or lower alloy steels like aus6/12c27, etc. You might try BD1 if that's what you want. If it's just a standard line of knives most of the sprints have just that. A VG10 or S30V version that is standard.

Recall that by and large Spyderco has always been performance oriented. The standard line is all most of us need. We just like the chance at trying different steels and are fortunate Spyderco makes them available. I've waited over 12 years for a modern high performance folder in Super blue. Personally I couldn't be more grateful.
Click to expand...


I started to use Spyderco in the mid 90´s... I took about 3-4 minutes to sharpen on a "Sharpmaker-system"...Now you can sit one hour with s30v. D2 etc...
I rather sharpen often and in short sessions then spend a long time sharpen seldom... What´s so strange about that.
 
If it takes you an hr to sharpen s30 on a sharpmaker you're doing something wrong
 
spider bite said:
What are you talking about? Search what his "bum knife" Did you not read my post? I was asking him about is "bum knife" that is brittle.Trying to see if it was the Mule team.
Click to expand...

It was not a Mule. It was something from a Japanese maker, in the sub-$200 range. It came very sharp but chipped like nothing I've ever seen before.
 
440. ats-55, aus-8...
Click to expand...

Spyderco didn't use 440A to my knowledge. 440C is available now. BD1 is similar to G2/Gin 1, the first Spyderco steel of all. Both are currently available if you look around. As for ATS 55 and Aus 8 you can always try e bay for new old stock. The majority of people here wouldn't want to give up their VG10 knives for the old days. It's extremely easy to sharpen , takes wicked edges and is one of the best all around steels made. If you have trouble sharpening that you might need better technique, or to clean your stones.

I don't doubt there are others that feel the same as you. We just don't get their posts too much.

Joe
 
It was not a Mule. It was something from a Japanese maker, in the sub-$200 range. It came very sharp but chipped like nothing I've ever seen before.
Click to expand...

I've seen that with Kantesune knives. I've had over hardened blades, and found inclusions/voids in their Damascus steels. The steel itself has a higher amount of carbon and a good amount of Tungsten. These same things which give it better wear resistance than say 1095 also make it a bit less tough. That's just the way it is. It shouldn't really be an issue with these folders though. When hardened to RC 64-65 in a hand made Japanese chef's knife you just need to handle it for what it is.
 
it is for me too.

i know i'm pretty much alone here with the voided warranty thing but, for me, a working/utility folder with carbon steel, tool steel or more rust prone stainless steel, absolutely must be screw construction. i usually wash my knives ... i may be alone but i do. and i have enough experience with what happens when you wash a carbon steel knife and don't dry it correctly. it rusts period. and as i don't wash my knives once a day and don't want to always have WD40 on me .... you got my point.

my gayle bradley as a forced patina just for that. my M4 milie has already been disasembled a couple of times and each time it had faints spots of orange rust around the pivot nothing huge but if i leave it a year, even oiling it every evening it will grow. it's no big deal for me because i can occasionaly deal with it. if i can't it's a deal breaker.
 
pwet said:
i know i'm pretty much alone here with the voided warranty thing but, for me, a working/utility folder with carbon steel, tool steel or more rust prone stainless steel, absolutely must be screw construction. i usually wash my knives ...
Click to expand...

While the handle may be pinned, the pivot is still adjustable. I believe you can remove the pivot screw and slide the blade out for cleaning/patina/etc. It didn't look hard on my Caly 3.5. :thumbup:
 
I have a Murray Carter knife made of super blue and white steel. A while back I remember eating a steak with it and
literally 5 minutes later there was a patina on the blade. It definitley a steel you have to take care of.
 
The Mastiff said:
Spyderco didn't use 440A to my knowledge. As for ATS 55 and Aus 8 you can always try e bay for new old stock. The majority of people here wouldn't want to give up their VG10 knives for the old days. It's extremely easy to sharpen , takes wicked edges and is one of the best all around steels made. If you have trouble sharpening that you might need better technique, or to clean your stones.

I don't doubt there are others that feel the same as you. We just don't get their posts too much.
Click to expand...

If I remember correctly aus-6 was used, very similar to 440a. I take a Spyderco aus-8 over any s30v anyday, if it makes me "alone here"...well my loss. Vg10 is great but I prefer aus-8.
 
If I remember correctly aus-6 was used, very similar to 440a. I take a Spyderco aus-8 over any s30v anyday, if it makes me "alone here"...well my loss. Vg10 is great but I prefer aus-8.
Click to expand...

Yep, Aus 6 was used in the stainless delica and endura models for a while and is a good steel. I feel it's usually cleaner and more consistent than 440A from batch to batch.I find it really easy to get extremely high sharpness levels with Aus 6 if heat treated well. Gin 1 or it's american analog BD1 might fit your needs. H1 in SALT knives is about as easy a steel to sharpen as there is. Have you tried that? It's easier than Aus 6 & 8 to edge up. Byrd knives in 8C are really easy to sharpen and take great edges too. Of course there are lots of ATS 55 and Aus 8 spydercos being sold on the bay. Some New in box even. Your problem is an easy one to fix as I see it unless you are the type who likes to be unhappy or never satisfied..

Spyderco has to build to suit their market. currently their market is what you see. They have models to fit most needs though, not just aficionado sprint runs of super steel knives.
 
Last edited:
jimnolimit said:
this is a big turn off for me.
Click to expand...

pwet said:
it is for me too.

i know i'm pretty much alone here with the voided warranty thing but, for me, a working/utility folder with carbon steel, tool steel or more rust prone stainless steel, absolutely must be screw construction.
Click to expand...

Its not a deal breaker for me but I do wonder why Spyderco went with a pinned knife for the Super Blue. I would like to be able to get in there and clean it up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top